I'm rewriting this entire post because my link did not work. I replaced my Blum drawer runners with Heavy duty runners on my 36" drawers because my soft close stopped working & the drawer felt unstable (too much weight) when it was open. It took the installer about 10 min per drawer to make the switch. My HD runners are the 568H (110 lb dynamic weight/125lb static weight). The 568H is being phased out by Blum & is replaced by the 569H. The 569H supports even more weight -135lbs dynamic/150 lbs static. This post was edited by romy718 on Thu, Jul 24, 14 at 23:17

A 24” framed drawer stack is too small in width to be a good dish storage cabinet. The interior space of the drawer will be around 18”-19”, depending on hardware choice. In frameless, you get more like 21”, depending on drawer material choice. The most used dish in any kitchen is the dinner plate, at 11” round. That leaves right at 6”- 10” for either bread plates, or glasses, or cups. If glasses and cups is your choice, as they are actually used more than the plates, then the 24” drawer is significantly undersized. You don’t stack glasses and cups. That means having a much wider heavy duty drawer to combine both those and plates, or another drawer, with glasses and cups in the top drawer. That’s at least a 10” drawer, and it won’t align with the standard 6” top drawers of most cabinets, breaking the line around the kitchen. There are ways of doing this, but there are going to be trade offs on function vs aesthetics.

You have two single-drawer units? Or one double-drawer unit? "Over 10 years old" covers a lot of ground for the various model revisions. Citing the specific model number(s) is more helpful than an imprecise age reference. Assuming you don't have one of the very early models that have inflatable seals ... The seal (for each drawer) is part of the drawer lid and does not contact the drawer rim until a cycle is started and the lid motors crank the lid down. The lid attaches to lid yokes at the left and right of each drawer, which in turn are connected to the screw-drive motors to raise and lower it. Could be one (or both) of the yokes on both drawer have broken. Could be one or both of the lid motors on both drawers have failed. A drawer can be forcibly opened if the lid motors fail and the lid doesn't open ... but it cannot be closed again without damaging the seal ... the lid motors must first be manually cranked to raise the lid. Could be the link support arm (which supports the wiring harness, fill hose, and drain hose) has broken on both drawers and something is dragging on the drawer ... but you didn't cite the model to confirm if you have the old-style plastic link support (which will eventually break) or the more-sturdy revised metal support. There may be a few other possible causes.

Had the exact same problem with our panel ready Fisher Paykel single drawers (we have two of them in different places). Tapping on the drawer didn’t work initially because the appliance installer was just not well versed in the proper installation and did not hook up the sensors properly. We also have shaker style doors and he didn’t use screws because of the depth problem (I believe the sensors were just dangling). If I remember correctly (18 months ago) it took us 3 service visits for them to get it right. They had already damaged one panel which had to be redone (screws came through). They were pretty afraid to even use shorter screws (panels were so thin) and if I’m remembering correctly, they had to improvise and did not attach the sensor in the normal way. I’m pretty sure they didn’t use any screws but tape instead. The dishwasher has worked flawlessly since then.