I would use the same travertine tile on the floor and in the shower. even in the same large size (to minimize grout). The maintenance of travertine is easy. If you get a honed finish you will not have to worry about etching. Just seal it once a year. it holds up very well. we have friends who have travertine in all their showers. looks new after 6 years. Make sure you buy high quality travertine which means - - less fills - very few large fills - very few through holes In fact the travertine we have in our house does not even take a sealer. i wipe it on and wipe off almost all of it...

@donna Hennings I’m leaning toward aesthetic white. What color did you use for trim paint? I’ve got to pain trim, cabinets and doors. I’m leaning toward alabaster for that. It’s not alot of contrast. I don’t want to go darker or on walls. But also can’t go whiter on cabinets as kitchen has the brown/beige/cream/gold granite and a lighter travertine backsplash. Plus of course travertine on kitchen floors (living room has dark walnut hardwoods)

OK...so you have a LIGHT floor (weight wise) currently in place. That means the original build PROBABLY had been built to handle a light weight and FLEXIBLE material like sheet product (linoleum or vinyl.) That means you have a 99.9% chance you will need to add more thickness to your subfloor. Ok...now we get into the nitty gritty. Regardless of stone or tile, you will need this beefing up (unless of course to TOTALLY luck and find you have a house that was OVER built and has WAY TOO MUCH subfloor material for the surface it holds = doubtful). Good. Now look at the transition HEIGHT between the existing sheet product (probably vinyl but could be linoleum). Is it even/level? Is it CLOSE to being even/level? Is it so close you don't notice the slight (4mm or so) height difference? If I'm right, there will be very little height difference between the floors OUTSIDE the kitchen and the floors INSIDE the kitchen. That's where the problem is going to be...the floor-height transition. Imagine you have to ADD 1/2" plywood just to get a subfloor that is stiff enough to handle tile (or possibly 3/4" to handle stone). Now imaging a tile/stone floor that is another 3/4" HIGHER than that. The worst case scenario is you have 3/4" plywood + 3/4" stone = 1.5" TALLER than the current kitchen floor. Now we have issues. Big, nasty, technical issues. Your entire kitchen design is going to centre around the floor height issues. Are you doing a complete gut of the kitchen? Do you have current photos of your floor heights? Do you have wood joist subfloor system in the kitchen? And with a floor/home this old, have you don't testing for lead/asbestos?

I went through this same process and tried dozens of paint with SW Creamy trim. Anything with an LRV higher than 60 enhanced the yellow undertones of Creamy. I have Revere Pewter lightened 25% (LRV about 58) in a south facing room and it looks nice. I used RP lightened 50% in a bathroom with Creamy trim and the trim looks more obviously cream and not white. I think about painting the trim and doors a brighter white every time I walk in that bathroom. The only lighter color that seemed to work was creamy walls. If you find something that works, please share!