GFCI outlet, am I an idiot?
isaac-1
13 years ago
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joed
13 years agosmithy123
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Swapping GFCI for a regular appliance outlet
Comments (7)You are not allowed to do that. The island is required to have a receptacle that serves the countertop and that one must be GFCI. You can add an additional receptacle inside the cabinet for the microwave, but you must leave the others. The microwave doesn't require a GFCI so if you can pick up the circuit before the GFCI that's fine. The existing GFCI would still be accessible (not behind the microwave) even if you were to connect the microwave on the protected side....See MoreGFCI 20-amp bathroom electrical outlet
Comments (2)The Nema numbers go like this: (L)(LEG CONFIGURATION)-(AMPERAGE)(TYPE) The leading "L" if present means locking. The next number indicates the voltage/leg configuration. 5 is single phase 120V. 15 means 15 amps 20 means 20 amps R - Receptacle (a female thing that is mounted to the junction box) P - Plug (the male one on a cord). S - Socket (a female one on the end of a cord, think of the non-plug end of an extension cord). Any of the 5-15R or 5-20R pin configurations will be fine. You can legitimately place a 5-15 on a 20A circuit....See MoreNeed help with 4-wire GFCI outlet + switch / outdoor light
Comments (9)I thought I replied to this post earlier today, but I guess it did not go through. The wiring for the receptacle and the light beyond it sound similar to what I have run across a couple of times in my house. If the power is running to the light switch, then they may have run 14/3 from the switch to the 1st outlet and used the white/black pair to power the receptacle, and the white/red pair passes through the receptacle to provide power to the light that is beyond. The only odd part is that usually you only need 14/2 from the receptacle to the light to make this work, but you said they had two reds nutted together in the box. You can use a similar scheme in reverse if you have power at the light, then 14/3 from the light to the receptacle, and then 14/2 running to the switch. The red wire is just used as a traveler that passes through the receptacle to provide a switch loop from the light switch to the light. I was very confused the first time I found this type of wiring scheme, since it looked like I was working with a 3 way switch circuit. However, it seemed that it was just a way to save running one more 12/2 cable from the light switch to the light. Bruce....See MoreReplacing a GFCI Breaker with GFCI Outlet(s) - what do I need?
Comments (11)"Only the breaker would, if enough total current was passing." Well, sort of. Just to dispel any possible confusion: A GFI breaker implements two functions. The first is overcurrent protection. The breaker trips if the total current drawn from the circuit exceeds the breaker's rating. For branch circuits this is normally 15 or 20 amps. The more it exceeds the breaker's rating, the faster the breaker trips. The second is ground fault protection. The breaker trips if it detects that the current is asymmetrical across the power line. The amount of asymmetrical (ground fault) current that trips the GFI part of the breaker is MUCH lower than the current that trips the overcurrent part . (Confused yet?) To explain this second function: it's not 100% accurate to describe it this way, but it's easier (I hope) to understand if you think of the electricity as going out the hot side of the receptacle and coming back in the neutral side. The GFI monitors both of these. If the amount of current coming back is less than the amount going out, some of it must be "leaking" to ground. That leakage might be going through a person or animal, risking shock or electrocution. So when the GFI sees that, it instantly opens, shutting off the power. With most GFIs, an imbalance (fault current) of 5 milliamps (0.005 amps) is enough to cause a trip....See Morewayne440
13 years agosmithy123
13 years agoisaac-1
13 years agomike_kaiser_gw
13 years agosmithy123
13 years ago
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