I know who the professionals in here are. I've also been using this forum for over five years. You, petey_racer, also know who's who. I don't know how long you've been here. I think you're new since my release from MSP. davidro1 probably did not. So "a bunch of people" very vaguely told him, without explanation, that he could not do it. Nobody said whether it wouldn't work, or whether it was a code violation, or whether they had any basis to their statement. When someone I don't know claims, very vaguely, that something I have asked will not work, I believe I am entitled to some semblance of a hint as to what their statement is based on. Yes, if someone with valid qualifications tells me no, they are probably right, but I still might want to understand why - and in any case, I should not be required to assume that anybody who replies to me in a forum I'm not a regular of must be a professional. It could very well be another person with even less knowledge/qualification than myself. If I asked a question, and you gave me a vague answer ("no"), I too would expect more. It is not fair to jump down someone's throat for wanting to understand an answer, and there is nothing wrong with QUESTIONING an answer from an unknown (TO THE ASKER) source. OP: Can I do this? REG1: No REG2: No REG3: Maybe RANDOM: No OP: Maybe? REG1: No, now get the hell out. Way to build a community. "Here's your answer, short and sweet, now go away."

Yes, install a new 120V circuit for the range. Whether it's 15A or 20A will depend on the requirements of the range. I'd leave the 240V circuit in place and remove the fuse as you suggested.

This forum software confuses me, so I'll just reply to everyone at once. "Are there no labels on this compressor?" Yes, it's labeled 15A. I thought I included that but may have forgotten it. Thanks for the info. "If you change the breaker, you need to change the wire." Right, I understand that. What I should've said is install wire capable of carrying 30A and start by installing a 15A breaker, then size up if needed. I'd planned on going a wire size up once I determine what the size I need is anyway, since from what I've gathered there is no reason not to do that, and if I ever need to repurpose the circuit, I can install a larger breaker if needed. As far as the amps question, I think I understand the answers. I guess what I wasn't getting is that measuring the two legs of a 240V circuit independently wouldn't mean anything because without both legs together, it isn't a 240V circuit. What I was asking is akin to if you installed two 20A single pole breakers right above/below one another and connected each to a 120V receptacle, you would have two 20A circuits, so total 40A. If you connected both of those to a 240V receptacle, then you would have a 240V receptacle, but the amperage would still only be 20A since the voltage has changed. I know that wouldn't be safe because 240V circuits breakers need to be tied together so if one trips they both trip, and I'm probably not wording that right, but that's what my original question was about. I just didn't get that the amperage doesn't add when you have two 20A breakers because the voltage also changes. It's my understanding that a 240V breaker is no different than two single pole breakers except for the bar that ties them together so they trip together, so my analogy seemed reasonable to me. As far as your answer regarding wire size being governed by current, I understand that, but what I was saying is that I see multiple different wire sizes for the same voltage, current, distance and conductor material when I look at different charts. When you say a 14A circuit needs 14 gauge wire, I assume that could change depending on if the length of the circuit is 25' vs 250'? Maybe it would be easier if I just tell you exactly what I have. 1) Compressor - labeled 15A on the motor. Wire distance from load center about 35'. 2) Table saw - Delta Unisaw model 36-829. Wire distance to receptacle, approx 45', with a 10' 12 gauge extension cord from receptacle to tool. The manual says "A separate electrical circuit should be used for your machine. This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected with a 20 Amp time lag fuse" 3) Band saw - Grizzly model # G0513X2. Specifications say it draws 10A at 220V or 20A at 110V. I have mine wired for 220V. The wire distance from the load center is approx 35'. These three items are what I am trying to determine wire size for.

The "2P" in the "20Amp 2P / 15 Amp" model number is not significant. It means "two pole." All 120v GFI receptacles are 2-pole. The rest of the model number just means that it serves 15 amp appliances, but can be used on a 20 amp circuit. You can replace your old one with any good quality GFI in whatever color you want. Reputable brands are Pass & Seymour (Legrand), Hubbell, and Leviton. For proper installation, you have to determine which of the cables in the box is the feeder for this part of your kitchen circuit. I hope that you only disconnected wires from 4 screws on the old GFI, and haven't undone any other connections in the box. Otherwise please speak up, because in some circumstances this can get complicated. If you have just the 4 wires, here is how to proceed. With the breaker off, pull all 4 wires out so the bare ends are exposed but well away from any metal objects. Make sure no children or pets are around. Turn on the breaker and station an assistant next to it, to open it in case of emergency. Take a neon test light (example) and carefully touch one probe to one of the white wires (or bare or green ground wires). Touch the other probe equally carefully to the bare black wire ends in turn. Don't touch any wires or the metal parts of the probes with your bare hands. The black wire that produces a glow of the test light is the feeder. Make a note of where it is, or carefully stick a bit of tape on the insulated part of the wire. Turn the breaker back off. Check again as above with your test light, to make sure the circuit is now dead. Connect the black wire that gave a glow to the brass-colored LINE terminal on your new GFI. Connect its white-insulated cable companion to the chrome-colored LINE terminal. Connect the other black wire to the brass-colored LOAD terminal. Connect its white partner wire to the chrome-colored LOAD terminal. Connect the bare or green ground wire to the GROUND (green) terminal. Your new GFI and other receptacles should now work.