A variety of tools might be appropriate. A tablesaw would be best for the outsides of your 6 x 8 rectangles. A scroll saw is as good as anything for cutting out inside shapes. If you need really crisp, smooth and straight repeatable cuts for the inside shapes, then you're getting into a router with template guides or flush trimming bits.

If you want just one saw that will do the most types of cuts, I would have to say a jigsaw would be most versatile, although some would argue that a router can do more. A jigsaw is a simpler machine, basically a blade going up and down.

Of course using one machine for different applications has it's tradeoffs: in the case of a jigsaw it would be speed (versus a cirular bladed saw) and smoothness and accuracy of cut (versus a table saw or scroll saw).

The "roughness" issue with jigsaws is another consideration, although I would suggest a top quality jigsaw, such as Bosch, are surprisingly smoothe in operation compared to the run-of-the-mill brands out there. And if you're cutting a straight line with any jigsaw, I would suggest some kind of straighedge as a fence, as they all have a tendency to wander.

Cutting long, straight edges---6" and longer--- is best done on a table saw or radial arm saw. The radial arm saw has length limits and is expensive---a decent one will cost $400 and up. A table saw can make whatever length cuts are needed---with outfeed support---something like rollers to hold the stock after it is cut. Decent table saws start at $400 and go up in price. There are table saws costing less than $400, but they are not easy with which to get good results---cheap fence and miter gauge, low power, and small tables.

There are several systems on the market that use a guide system and a circular saw to cut long straight edges. These systems use a plate on which the circ. saw is mounted and a guide rail on which the plate rides as the saw cuts. There are all kinds of accessories with some of these systems and one of them would work quite well for your needs. Prices start around $130 or so and go up as the length expands and extras are added. Long straight or short straight lines are possible with those systems. A decent circular saw will cost about $80-$120-=--you can buy a cheapie for $40 or less, but it will be less dependable with those systems.

A good jig saw---the Bosch is one of the better ones----will cut inside shapes(a drill is needed to make a starter hole), cut all manner of outside shapes(With the right blade), and is the least expensive at about $160---but a jig saw will not easilt make long straight lines.

A scroll saw will do everything a jigsaw will do---better. But, a drill for starter holes is still needed and the cost of a decent scroll saw starts at $300 or so. And they are difficult to get long straight lines with---but make better ones with a guide fence than a jig saw.

A common misconception is that beginners need beginner tools. If a person is sure they want to do certain jobs wekll, and for a long time, buying the best tools possible makes good sense as well as being less expensive in the long run. Example, I started out woodworking by buying a $400 beginner type table saw. Not a good idea, since I progressed beyond the capabilities of that saw in my second project and burnt up the motor on the third. That was $180 to fix and find out it was almost useless for my third project. Could not find anyone to buy it, so gave it away and bought a $570 table saw that I still have and like very much.

So, it sounds like to me you need two saws. A table saw or guide system saw and a scroll saw or jig saw.

If I understand handymac correctly, a "guide system saw" would more often be called a "panel saw".

It might help if you give a little more detail about what you want to do. For example, I'm not at all sure whether, by "straight and smooth as possible," you mean that you really need a high level of precision, or just that you don't want cuts to look sloppy.

No, a panel saw is a huge affair, with a framework and saw mount that moves vertically and horizontally and is not typically portable. The guide systems are simply a guide bar, mounting bracket, saw, and clamps. The guide bars generally weigh less than three to five pounds and come in lengths from 2' to 9'. The bar is set on the material to be cut so the saw in the mounting bracket cuts along the line made for the cut. Clamps hold the bar in place and the mounting plate with saw attached slides along the bar as the operator moves the saw.

The whole system can often be easily carried inside a 4door sedan.

I found a link showing a magazine testing of several systems.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cricular saw guide system testing

Thanks so much for all your responses.
In answer to your question, jon1270: I don't think they have to be HIGHLY precise, just to look OK. I want to use these shapes as bases for mosaic art.

Until I get a better idea what I'm doing, I think I may just ask my carpenter friend to cut out the first few for me (paid for his time, of course). If I end up needing lots more of them, I could see about buying a saw later.
Thanks,
Edie

Oh, that kind of guide system saw...

Now I get it.

"I want to use these shapes as bases for mosaic art."

MDF might not be the best material here. It swells pretty badly with any moisture.

Gosh, brickeyee, I don't know. Would that be indoors as well as out do you think?
I have researched it quite a bit online, and I think MDF is used for mosaic bases, at least for small indoor pieces. Some mosaic supply sites sell MDF cutouts to be used as bases.
It will be painted or sealed in some way on any exposed surfaces. I will look into a little more, though. I am definitely a beginner.

By the way, I talked to a carpenter I know and he's going to cut out my pieces for me tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help!

Although there are water resistant versions of MDF you aren't going to find them at a local home center.

For exterior projects, I'd suggest MDO. It's an exterior grade plywood with a special paper surface that takes paint very well. The only problem is that you'd need to fill the edges.

As an aside here, MDF makes lots and lots of fine, nasty dust when you cut it that can be rough on your respiratory system. You might want to consider wearing an approved dust mask.

Mike

If you plan on grouting the mosaic in any way MDF is a bad idea.
It is likely to absorb moisture quickly messing up the grout hardening process, and then swell from the moisture.
It may eventually return to the same size, leaving grout and tile unsupported.
Kust becasue you find something in a craft store does not make it a great idea.
My wife purchased on oval canvas frame made from MDF. It cracked as the paint dried on the canvas and pulled the frame.

It seems that I have a different opinion on how to do this kind of work.
I would use a saw like the PorterCable 4" trim saw as it is easy to fashion guides.
Often I use precut guides of various materials, in a pinch IÂll use metal stud track.
Pro & cons to each guide. Why this saw? Cause both sides can run along a guide successfully. To cut the shape that was posted, it would require 6 saw horses, sheet of plywood for the work area & clamps. Skill level needed would not be too high; as I would be able do this. And the cost is kept reasonable. After some practice, setup time is minimal. The only disadvantage would be that this saw requires more time, it isnÂt a monster, but is just a well though out design.
If I had to produce a lot of the same shapes, then I might spend time building a full size jig for the sawÂI said my peace (without saying what I though of the previous tools mentioned)
As far as stock, I might think of that high density stuff that is used for laminate counter tops & try it on a small scale to see how it would hold up.

Well, like some guy said, everyone has an ÂopinionÂÂthink it is time for me to go back to the gardening forum whence I came from?

Brickeyee, what you say is absolutely true---but where did Edie say anything about grouting? I assumed she was going to paint the pieces and use them in country style craft art. Which could work fine as long as primer is used on the MDF before any water based paint.

The PC trim saw is a jewel---but will not cut heart or oval shapes.

Hi, handymac. I actually mentioned later in the thread that I was going to use the pieces as bases for mosaics, which will indeed be grouted.
Just out of curiosity, why did you assume they would be for "country style craft art"? I think I know what that is, but I'm just wondering. Was it because I mentioned hearts?

I dropped the MDF off with my carpenter today, and he's going to cut it up for me. We shall see.