My Tuscany Superb has 6' long canes that arch over to a total height of around 4'. How big is too big? I've got so many roses that are doing well for me it would be hard to list them all. What are you looking for? Antiques and Austin roses only? Do you want some hardy shrubs, Buck roses, rugosas, etc? Some of my favorite roses right now that don't get too big (for me that's under 4') are: Shrubs & Bucks Quietness (a truly outstanding rose that you can purchase at Sam's...) Dakota's Song Prairie Harvest Winter Sunset most of the Easy Elegance roses: All the Rage Macy's Pride Grandma's Blessing Funny Face Antiques Indigo Vick's Caprice Charles de Mills (around 5') Leda "Reine des Violettes" from Sam Kedem - his is not the true RDV, I believe it is really Portland From Glendora. She is a bloom factory all summer long and highly fragrant but does get to be about 5'x5'. A must have in my garden. David Austin roses: Crocus Rose Christopher Marlowe Redoute Charlotte Eglantyne The Dark Lady Rugosas Snow pavement - new this year but very fragrant and should stay on the small side. Purple Pavement Marie Bugnet Linda Campbell - she gets about 5'x5' with massive hydrangea like clusters of blooms. An absolute showstopper in my garden. I could list many many more but I'll stop myself here..

What about common milkweed spreading through rhizomes? Doesn't that pose difficulties, even if you cut off the seedpods? Also, at least around here, the common milkweed plants get pretty ugly and ratty looking after blooming. Although I have to say, they have been getting getting all the action from the monarchs. I haven't see any monarchs on the butterfly weed or the swamp milkweed, even though the peak bloom season for common finished a couple of weeks ago, and the swamp milkweed is peaking right now.

GardenGirl -- I was at Peninsula Gardens on Mother's Day but it was a little early for the plants I'm really interested in buying. If you notice an orange, dark-foliaged dahlia named 'Bishop of Oxford' would you please say something? My parents live close by and can pick one up for me. Have you ever taken your kids to Titlow pool in Tacoma? I used to work there in junior high and high school. It was a nice big pool but would probably be considered ancient by now! I love Dig Nursery, too. Sylvia and Ross are good friends and when I visit I usually take a picnic lunch for all of us to eat in the nursery. Time for another visit!

From the Ohio State University: "Because of resistance problems, chemicals alone are no longer adequate for control of Colorado potato beetle. Infestations should be prevented by using appropriate cultural practices." "Hand-picking can effectively control the Colorado potato beetle in small plantings. Inspect plants once or twice per week, remove all larvae and adult beetles, drop them into a container of soapy water, then dispose. Dislodge beetles by lightly beating plants with a broom; hold a snow shovel under plants to catch the dislodged beetles. Eggs can be crushed by hand. A vacuum cleaner can be used to remove beetles from young plants. Lightweight row covers can be placed over plants as a barrier to prevent adult beetles from colonizing the plants." "Several natural enemies of the Colorado potato beetle can help reduce the pest population, but none has yet been found that alone can control this pest. Potato beetle eggs and larvae are preyed on by two kind of stink bugs: the spined soldier bug and the two-spotted stink bug. Ladybird beetles ("ladybugs") feed on eggs of potato beetles, and a parasitic fly and a fungus can attack potato beetles. Ladybird beetles also feed on pollen so they can be attracted to gardens with many pollen-producing plants. Natural enemies may be protected by use of microbial insecticides that are toxic to the Colorado potato beetle but not toxic to the beneficial insects mentioned above." "A relatively new group of insecticides is made from naturally-occurring bacteria that cause certain kinds of insects to become sick and die. One type of bacteria called B.t. or Bacillus thuringiensis, varieties san diego and tenebrionis, has been developed for control of Colorado potato beetle larvae. The bacteria must be eaten by larvae. These products are slower acting than conventional insecticides; larvae may not die until 4 to 5 days after treatment, although they are too sick to feed during that time. B.t. must be applied as a spray when eggs are just starting to hatch. B.t. is more effective at warmer than at cooler temperatures because insects feed faster as temperature increases. An advantage of the B.t. products is that they are not toxic to natural enemies of the potato beetle. Representative brand names and producers: Colorado Potato Beetle Attack (Ringer), B.t. Leaf Beetle Attack (Safer), Colorado Potato Beetle Beater (Bomide), Colorado Potato Beetle Pre-Adult Control (Dragon), M-One and M-Trak (Mycogen)." More info below. Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Colorado potato beetle control