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Electrical Wiring

14/3 What places in the house do i need to run this type of wire

15 years ago

Im in Canada,I know my fridge has to be on a seperate circuit,But do i need to run 14/3 or can i use 14/2?

Do i need to do the same for my washer?

In the bathroom i will put my GFI in the first receptical box and wire it in series to protect the other 2 outlets.

Do i need run 14/3 to that,And do i need 14/ 3 to run to my gfi on the counter?

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Comments (7)

brickeyee
15 years ago
Anywhere you need a light switched from two locations, like stairs.
petey_racer
15 years ago
I would suggest getting a couple of good books on home wiring. This will clear up quite a bit of confusion.
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You'll need 14/3 from S1 to L1 to S2; 14/2 from a 15 amp circuit breaker to S1 or to L1; and 14/2 from L1 to L2 to L3 to L4. Connect all the black wires to the black 14/2 lead, all the white wires to the white 14/2 lead and all the grounds to the ground lead. Diagrams can be found in many Simplified Home Wiring books in your library or DIY store.
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You should not have any 14 gauge wire on that circuit if it is connected to a 20 amp breaker. If you can't replace the wiring, the breaker needs to be changed to a 15 amp. If this is the only circuit run to the bathroom, you have a problem because code requires a 20 amp circuit. If the twenty amp circuit also feeds other bathrooms, you have another problem. Tell us a little more about what is going on.
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"New code requires neutrals at all switch legs" If you rn the feed to the switches you do notneed to be concerned with switch loops since you wil lnot be using them. The hot feed goes to both switches. The switched side goes to each light, along with a neutral. All the neutral in the switch box are tied together. All the grounds in the switch box are tied together (and to the switch grounding screws and the box if it is metal). Each switch then feeds a 2-conductor cable (with ground) that feeds a bank of lights one after another. Each light is placed across the now switched hhot and the neutral. There are no 'switch loops' and all you need is 2 conductor cable.
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Ignoring the ground wires(since you know where they go) I can't be any clearer than this. You have two terminals(the part where you push the wire in next to the screw terminal is the same terminal, maybe that is your sticking point?) on the old switch. Let's call them line and load. The line terminal is the one with the 'mystery' wire. The load terminal is the other one. Take All the wires on the load side, marrette them to the load Side wire on your new device. Take the wire from the other terminal, marrette it to the other wire on the new device. Ta-da!
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joed
15 years ago
The only one you mentioned that needs 14/3 is the kitchen counter receptacle. If you are going to use 15 amp circuits then you must use split wired receptacles on double pole breakers. However if the receptacle is within 1.5m of the sink it needs to be GFCI. In this case you are better off to use 12/2 wire and a 20 amp breaker, beacuse a double pole GFCI is very expensive.
glenster_jr
15 years ago
14-3 is often used as the switch leg to ceiling fans w/ light kits. Allows seoarate control of fan speed and lights. Of course newer fans with remote control features may make this unnecessary someday.
bigbird_1
15 years ago
In Canada you must run a 3 way switch between the basement stairs light and the main floor. By code you must use 14/3, or 12/3 if you want to use a 20A circuit. These two switches and light do not need to be on a separate circuit.
joed
15 years ago
In Canada lighting MUST be on a 15 amp circuit. There is no point in running 12/3 for a three way switch circuit.
bigbird_1
15 years ago
"In Canada lighting MUST be on a 15 amp circuit."

Right you are. Plugs only are allowed to be on a 20A cc't.

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