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Electrical Wiring

3-way switch again, 14/3, need help?

15 years ago

I'm wiring 4 T-5 lights im my shop. I started without understanding it completly. I ran 14/3 wire from box to light to light [x4] and then down other side of shop to box.

Now I'm short a wire if I understand it correctly. Can I just run another wire between the lights? a single or 14/2. this would be the easy fix for me. Also what wires do I connect together between the lights? A diagram would be best for Me!

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Comments (5)

randy427
15 years ago
You'll need 14/3 from S1 to L1 to S2; 14/2 from a 15 amp circuit breaker to S1 or to L1; and 14/2 from L1 to L2 to L3 to L4.
Connect all the black wires to the black 14/2 lead, all the white wires to the white 14/2 lead and all the grounds to the ground lead.
Diagrams can be found in many Simplified Home Wiring books in your library or DIY store.
joed
15 years ago
Here's your drawing. Just add more light between wired the same.
Not sure if adding a 14/2 would be code.
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From the 2nd switch you only need two conductors, a hot and a neutral, going to the light. The hot will come from the "common" terminal on the switch. No reason to replace the cable, just leave the 3rd wire disconnected. Whomever wired it to begin with probably either had extra 14/3 around, or wanted flexibility, for example to power a fan and a light separately.
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Let me add this is off a garage subpanel that has 2- 20A breakers tied together so I assume its sharing a neural. The extra black wire in box 1 controls one of three lights (single pole, one of the red travelers are capped). Is it possible to cap one of the travelers in box 2 (3way switch, 3 wires in box) and installing a single pole there? Is there a hazard keeping it as it is now. ?? ie: One box with single pole controling all 3 lights. Second box with 3 way only controling 2 of the lights when power is on at switch one.... no power to switch when switch one is off. Again about the hazard, is this a fire/shock hazard or one of those things that it works or it doesnt?
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That's not the wattage rating. It's the voltage. 600V. If you are using 14/3 for the switching you might as well use #14 for all the wiring. It is good for 1800w (nominally).
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Thank you again for the info. I tried doing that, but it still does not work properly. The old switch and the new switches are from different companies. It looks like there are more places to put wires in the new switch than there were in the old switch. I have finally given up, and am calling in an expert. It may cost me some money, but maybe I can figure out what he does and do the same with the other switches I installed. I'm just waiting for the electrician to show up now. Well I appreciate the suggestions you gave me. Thanks again.
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Ron Natalie
15 years ago
You haven't said where the incoming power is connected to this mess. However, as randy is aluding, you need to use the 14/3 to connect the two three way switches together (if it's cut at the lights, just wirenut it back together). Run new 14/2 from the lights to one switch. Run the power to the other switch.
kbock
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks, Yes the power is comming into one switch. and it looks like the easy answer is a new 14/2, from one switch to lights, and wire nutting the 14/3 back together.
Thanks Again.
joed
15 years ago
There are many options.
14/2 from one switch to all lights.
14/3 from one switch to other switch.
14/2 between lights only.
14/3 from first light to last light.

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