marti8a: they are Blum brand, and are called Tandembox. Blum also makes a similar product for Ikea (called Rationell), so you might look into that (there is an ikeafans website much like this one that could probably help you figure out if they would work for your framed cabinets). My cabinets are frameless. I remember my cabinet maker saying that he bought the components for the rollouts (the metal front and sides, slides, etc) and then cut the metal front to fit my cabinet and put them together with the gray corner pieces. The bottom and the back is melamine (1/2 or 5/8 inch). The ikea looks really similar and economical. $24 for a 24 inch wide or $22 for the 21 inch wide, plus you'd need a drawer front. The 24 inch drawer front is $12, there isn't a 21 inch wide drawer front, but maybe you could cut the 24 inch down? These prices include the fully extending drawer slides. I think that there are also products at ikea that are not shown online, so there may be more size options and components to build your own drawers. Here is a link that might be useful: Ikea rational fully extending drawer

I just finished my kitchen. I'm waiting for the painters to finish before I post my reveal. I went all drawers, thanks to the good folks at GW. I have a lot of little gadgets, knives, baking tools, etc. I thought I needed a 4-drawer stack. My KD steered me away from them. Rather, I have all 3-drawer stacks. One of the stacks has two shallow drawers and one very deep drawer. I purchased a series of bain marie and built an insert for the drawer to contain a lot of my cooking utensils, I also installed a bunch of Rev-a-Shelf inserts. I can't believe how much I loaded into this one drawer stack. You can see from the picture that the bottom drawer is very deep. So, you can vary the size of the drawers. I also made sure to put in a Super Susan. It holds huge amounts of casserole and mixing bowls. My formerly cramped kitchen has empty drawers and cabinets because the base drawers are so efficient in handling equipment storage. Other than trash pull out, sink base, a spice pull out and the Super Susan, everything else is a drawer cabinet. You were asking about spice storage. I'm short. I have trouble seeing things in the back of upper cabinets. It has been my experience that the spice pull out base cabinet is useless, too. I can't see the names of the bottles in a base pull out without squatting down. That takes too much time. Here is my solution. I purchased drop down bins made by Rubbermaid, $11 each, from Target online. You might consider this solution. Yes, they are displayed in alphabetical order. I'm a little bit of a perfectionist.

I hated all the wasted spaces too. I went for frameless and made some look like inset. I used a combination of Ikea and custom Conestoga. Even with frameless, you still have wasted space behind the drawers. There is a huge difference between manufacturers. When I did my research, I saw wasted space from 4”-8”. For my custom drawers, I specified 1/2” inch from the back wall.

Here's an update, and thanks again for everyone's helpful replies! @M Miller What do you know, but your old post has appeared belatedly! Houzz can be mysterious sometimes. I did look up and bookmark your two suggestions for scratching posts, and thanks for that plus your other suggestions. That's a great idea about hanging things on your cabinet doors. I'm thinking of creating a whole wall of things outside of the kitchen for the cats to scratch including mounting some of the old cabinet doors they've already shredded since they are accustomed to them. We'll also be using a gate to keep them out of the new kitchen, and I might get a couple of those posts you recommended, too. @new-beginning The cat nail covers have fallen off easily the previous times they've been tried in our household, but I guess it's always worth a re-try if nothing else works. Our cats are older and wouldn't jump a baby gate, though they will likely climb around on the overhang side with stools under it and be on the counters when we aren't looking. Hopefully they won't jump from the counters into the kitchen. Thanks for the suggestions. @User Thanks for the info. We did in-depth research on all the woods you mentioned except for mesquite and settled on cherry due to a combination of factors including appearance. We've seen several cherry wood kitchen displays in person and are prepared for the color changes over time. The Waterlox multi-layer coating added a fake, plastic-looking orange that we didn't like which might be easier to understand if viewing in person. We did 6 coats on the sample, and 5 to 8 coats would be typically recommended for an application like this on cabinetry. By the way, my Waterlox sample did dry out and harden up since I wrote the original post, so it didn't stay gummy. I should have let it cure more than 24 hours between coats. We're planning to use the spare Waterlox on garage cabinetry and outdoor benches, so it wasn't a total loss to try it out. I've discovered since my original post that Waterlox actually has minimal tung and linseed oil composition and is primarily a synthetic varnish. @Brian Gannon Believe what you like, but my husband and I are halfway through a 4-room renovation and have been blissfully happy with the work completed thus far, we feel in part because we have taken time to explore some non-standard approaches. Cutting short research in this final stretch isn't an option for me personally, but I do appreciate your effort with suggestions. In summary . . . 100% tung oil might be something to try, and I plan to test it as it certainly is repairable plus simple in application. (Turns out Waterlox falls more into the category of a varnish than oil.) People who use 100% tung oil get best results by progressively thinning initial layers, sanding in between, and letting each layer cure up to a week for a minimum of 5 layers. Some woodworkers recommend 1 coat per week for a month, 1 coat per month for a year, and 1 coat per year thereafter. We had better be sure we like this before applying, because it is virtually irreversible. The CABINET PAINTING & REFINISHING - DIY & Pros offers resources for purchasing Milesi products in the United States. Shipments are temporarily halted due to COVID-19 crisis supply problems but should eventually resume. My wording about "2K" in a prior post is misleading. Conversion varnish (CV) is two-part (2K) as is the 2K Milesi waterborne coating discussed above. It's been recommended in this linked Facebook group that someone wanting to use the 2K Milesi clear coat as a brush-on eliminate the hardener portion and only use the varnish. Some chemical resistance and hardness will be compromised, but withholding the hardener will allow the varnish to dry more slowly so that it can be brushed. When mixed, it dries so fast that it must be applied via sprayer. Ilva, Renner, and ICA remain good coating options if Milesi's supply problems (from Italy) don't rebound fast enough. Sherwin Williams Industrial Coatings locations (different from your local SW paint retailer) offer the SAYERLACK® HYDROPLUS™ Waterborne Clear finish that is supposed to be good for cabinets. In talking to several pro painters, I learned that they often rely on the Sherwin Williams "water white lacquer" which isn't waterborne as far as I can tell and does yellow some in time but not as much as other lacquers. The Sayerlack (a Sherwin Williams sub-brand sourced from Italy) is a newer and presumably superior product in terms of low-VOC and non-yellowing waterborne composition.