Does it really matter if the 50's BR's didn't have shaker? If you like it, and you're going to the trouble of replacing doors, I would do whichever style you like best. Otherwise, why not just paint your 'real 50's' doors? You're not putting in 50's light switches, and I assume you're not putting in a 50's fan. Doesn't look like a 50's toilet... I actually like the look of the shaker style drawer front in your pic, even though I have shaker doors in my kitchen and went with slab on my smaller top drawers. Problem with the shaker drawer front, is I am not sure if you can put a handle in the middle part, is there enough wood? So, if you wanted to position your new knobs/handles in the middle that might be a deal breaker. I am not sure if this option would work for you, but in our Master BR we did not have enough space to put in a 4 gang box. I positioned 2 2 gangs one above the other. You could do 3 and 2, or 2 and 2 using one double. I put my two programmable switches (and I strongly recommend using a timer switch for your fan) together, and the light switches together. In your case, I would put the three light switches on one gang, and the fan and the outlet on the other.

You will wind up with 2 circuits on the same yoke (switch device) That would require you to find the 2 circuits in the panel and put them on a double pole breaker. Also if it is a newer house and the circuits are or are a part of bedrooms, then an expensive 2 pole AFCI breaker would be needed. Simpler to just expand the boxes granted there is room to. Plus you will probably need to pull out the boxes to fish in the cable anyway and the switch that becomes a 4 way is going to have 2 more 14/3 cables added to the box making it near or over the box fill limit.

Why anyone is reaponding to a post from 11 years ago is beyond me, but in response to ’Hello Kitty Lover Man’, indeed you are correct that chronologically toggles long precede Decoras, Mark’s ’dated’ comment referring not to their relative ages, but rather, and quite correctly, to the preponderance of Decoras in every level of home build once they gained widespread embrace in the 80’s, giving them an almost generic look. Think a late 80’s spec home with vaulted ceilings, lots of beige, plush carpets and the oh so modern new style of light switches! Ugh. This is not even mentioning the terribly unsatisfying ’click’ in all but the most expensive of Decoras in contrast to standard toggles. But it’s a matter of personal taste/style. We live in a 1910 bungalow, and i’m on the fence, though leaning ever so slightly back to toggles due to the age of our house and our mix of modern and older styles. But to be certain, before you rate someone out for your misunderstanding of how they might perceive things, try to read a little deeper before responding.

"Decora" is a Leviton registered trademark. Other companies refer to this style as decorator or designer when they want to imply that their device fits the same size opening. Lutron uses the name "Maestro" for one of their dimmer lines that fit in a designer style opening. Maestro dimmers that you find at HD or Lowes are not RF radio frequency. Some have IR capability but are called Maestro IR, or identical looking Spacer. For 3ways you use a remote in wall that talks to the master dimmer and tells it what to do using the typical 3way wiring. Lutron has both toggle style and designer style dimmers that can use remotes for mulitlocation dimming so you can have full control at both ends (and middle). Lutron Radio RA and HomeWorks wireless systems do have RF Maestro dimmers for whole home capable lighting control systems that are easy to retrofit. As Jon says, dimmers do save money, are an approved method of meeting California Title 24 in rooms as specified, do waste about 1% as heat at the dimmer and the lamps are not as efficient when dimmed. They also extened lamp life. Some dimmers do not need to be trimmed to fit next to each other but still require derating for the heat they produce. There are 1000 watt models available as well as completely remote dimming where you put a normal dimmer in the wall to control a larger dimmer hidden away.