C'mon Goldy. You know we need a bit more info than that to be of any help. Shut the computer down and then restart to see if that fixes it If a plug in make sure the plug is firmly in place If battery operated remove the battery and rub both ends vigorously or replace batteries If WiFi with a separate semsor check the light is on if it has one. Fixed yet?

I've never seen your kitchen (or any pictures of it) and thus don't know how your tiles or countertop or paint or cabinets will look like under different lighting, so I have no way to know which would make your colors look best, but my inclination is to go with PAR38 bulbs in 6" cans, because that gives you the most options now and also in the future to change if necessary, or if better/cheaper LED lights come along. I've generally found high color temperatures (4000K and up) look best with white cabinets, which turn yellowish under 2700K light, but that wood cabinets look best with lower color temperatures. But the differences between halogen (about 2850k) and 3000 or 3500K are more subtle. I lean towards the GE 20947 halogen PAR38 bulbs I mentioned earlier, in part because I've used them frequently and can vouch that they give off great light (a 2850K 100CRI halogen won't dull colors like a 2700K 82CRI CFL does), an even well-focused beam spread, and not much glare. And the light bulbs themselves look good, more so than many LED floodlamps currently available which look more like showerheads or jet engines with visible heatsinks. The halogen bulbs have a rated 3000 hour life; by the time they burn out there should be a much larger, higher quality, and cheaper assortment of LED retrofits available then there are now; indeed, a halogen bulb now and an LED replacement two or three years hence could be less expensive than an LED bulb now. I don't notice much heat from them when installed in an 8' ceiling - they're much further away from you than the lights on your rangehood, and considerably bigger but only slightly higher wattage (and wattage correlates with heat). If you're really concerned about adding any heat though, maybe something like the Home Depot Commercial Electric 5"/6" LED modules (or another similar brand) would be better - they're cool, not wildly expensive, efficient, 3000K, but also only low-80s CRI. You can put a PAR30 bulb in a 6" or 6.5" can, but doing so requires a conical trim kit to look good (so there's no big gap around the bulb), and I've never liked that appearance - the fixture looks too big for the bulb - but getting a PAR38-capable nonetheless gives you that flexibility, whereas a 5" can can use only a PAR30. Myself I still prefer to use 5" cans for PAR30 lights for the neater appearance. Long necks or short necks are a choice only for the PAR30 size; other sizes have only one common shape. The long-neck bulb is more common in residential fixtures, and most of what you'll find in consumer-oriented stores. Cheap bulb extenders are sold in hardware stores that will effectively turn a short-neck PAR30 into a long-neck version, and sometimes the socket in the recessed fixture can be adjusted in or out to suit either. The short-neck PAR30 (or smaller bulbs) are a good option when dealing with shallow ceilings though where big cans may not fit. But most times (and nearly all times if there's an attic above your kitchen), there's plenty of space for a normal-depth large can.

Thanks for all the ideas and information. I'm not sure if this matters but the overhang of counter behind the bases, about 8", is intended to be on hinges that allow that section to flip down. I need that flexibility there in order to be able to use all the leaves in my DR table. Cpartist, because that overhang is not going to be a solid counter, the Mockett won't work there or over the drawer and tray bases without us having to cut short the top drawers. I hate to lose that storage. But I'll keep the option in my back pocket. Avatarwalt, if I understand it right, the reason for this rule is because some small appliances only have 2-foot power cords. They don't want people to use extension cords in the kitchen. Probably especially by a sink. Thus, when there's a break in the counter (aisle, doorway, sink, range, etc.) there must be a plug-in no more than 24" away and then every 48" along a stretch of continuous counter. Rebunky, that grid isn't 1-foot squares. It was done on the Ikea planner and, for some bizarre reason, the grid is an odd size, around 7.5", I think. We've actually scooted back the peninsula a tad since the drawing was made, Our aisle will be 62" counter-to-counter. LOVE it. If your DH has any tips when he awakes, I'd sure appreciate it. Desertsteph, see my response to cpartist. That would be a great idea if we weren't planning on flipping down the counter. Although, as I'm typing, maybe that would still work as I probably will never need it anyway. It then becomes a wall plug for the dining/sitting area. Hmmm.... Mushcreek, another see my response to cpartist. That was a great solution for your space but it won't work in mine. Your windows go to the counter, right? Interesting, I never thought of the plug-in problem in that situation. That's something to be aware of when we help people plan their kitchens, isn't it? Thanks for bringing that to our attention. Our window over our prep sink is just a few inches above the counter, just wide enough to put in a plug placed horizontally. I plan on all the kitchen plugs to be placed low like that, horizontally, so the one by the sink isn't an oddball. Sophie, that's an interesting idea. I'd prefer not to add another 1.5" to the peninsula length. I would really like that access point to be about 4-5" wider than it is but then I'd have to get rid of the tray storage there which is so conveniently located. I wish we had gone with a 33" sink base to gain a couple of inches. The opening is going to be 44" which is adequate but it would have been nicer to have it just a bit wider. Another idea to keep in my back pocket. Thanks! Scrappy, thanks for that link. Very helpful. I didn't realize there was a different rule for peninsulas and islands. If I'm reading it right, this means our plan meets code and we're good to go. Hope so as our intended locations make the most sense to me as they'll be accessible if we ever did need to plug something in there, which will be rare if ever, but not require weird tweaks like cutting short drawers like the Mockett would cause. The one at the end of the peninsula will be in the top of the tray cabinet, just under the single, top drawer, and none of my trays are that tall so it's dead space anyway. I'll double-check with our code officer. Thanks again! Thanks again, Everyone! If anybody else has further ideas or knowledge about this, I'll look forward to hearing it. ETA: jdez, I will. But now, with Scrappy's link, I have ammunition to argue for my plan, if necessary. :)

You have: WARM travertine tile on the first floor. You have DARK warm wood cabinets. You have WARM countertops. The LAST thing you want sitting next to that BEAUTIFUL WARM coloured stone is gray. No gray. Nothing in your home says "I need gray to make it perfect". Nothing. Your furniture will change. Your area rugs will change. Your wall colours will change. They will all change inside of 15 years. But your PERMANENT stone or tile floors will STAY. If you must use a tile next to stone, I suggest working in the same tones. You can go darker or you can go lighter but stay inside the SAME TONES as the travertine. If you REALLY MUST HAVE GRAY - then rip out the travertine and start again. Gray and peach stone/tile do not like to play nicely together. It screams out, "I didn't want to pay to do it properly." I would recommend finding MORE travertine in a different sized tile and add it in at an angle (diagonal install). You can find a stone that is either a little darker or a little lighter. You can then add a decorative boarder to the rooms where you are installing it so that it looks like you did it on purpose. This is a great way to add more of the high-end stone to a space that already has high-end stone. But please do not add gray in with peach. They just don't like each other. Flooring snobs, like myself can see it right away. We KNOW when something has been done piece meal. We also know when someone did the piece meal NICELY vs. someone who did it without a thought to the overall look of the floor. Compliment the stone you are keeping. Let your area rugs turn the space gray. That trend is quickly dying. It makes sense to throw out a rug in 3 years. It doesn't make sense to rip out a tile floor in 3 years.