Took it to dealer today and he said the same thing. Needed to replace the whole coil to put a new wire on it. He was going to get me a price. I do like the idea of cutting it and putting a new terminal on it though. I used to do that for my cars but did not consider it for the mower. It may not be long enough to do though but it is worth a shot. Thanks

While dryers and ranges have typically been 120/240 V loads there is a long standing exception allowing the use of 3-wire circuits. The exception still allows the use of the older 3-wire circuits and almost all ranges and dryers come with instructions for either installation. The change to the exception is that it is now strictly a 'grandfather' exception. All new circuits must be 4-wire, and if any changes are made to a 3-wire circuit it must be changed to 4-wire. Many ranges and dryers do not even come with a cord attached, but one is purchased to match the circuit in the house the unit will be installed in. The difference in the equipment is usually the removal of a bonding screw between the neutral terminal and the chassis. A 3-wire installation bonds the neutral to the chassis for safety, while a 4-wire uses the ground in the circuit to ground the chassis. The wire resistance is low enough that having a neutral grounded chassis for the small 120 V loads (motor and timer typically) does not produce enough voltage drop in the wiring to be detected by people (the chassis has a voltage equal to the voltage drop in the neutral leg present).

Have your installer cut out ONLY as big as the rough in box, (these cutouts need to be quite accurate). The electrician can then wire and install the receptacle and cover. Depending on the thickness of your cabinet backs, and any distance away from drywall, box extensions may be necessary. Your electrician, and or inspector if you have one will know if the extensions are required. edit to add: One issue with installing the device before cabinets, is the cabinet installer then needs to remove both screws, and pull the receptacle, (or switch) out through the cabinet back so the "ears" of the device sit over the back material. IMO it's easier for the installer to not have to do this, and let the electrician do it correctly, where he may need longer screws (as well as the aforementioned extensions) This post was edited by ctycdm on Tue, Nov 12, 13 at 16:31

It sounds like you need a single gang handy box cover with a 1/2" knockout and a 90 degree flexible metal conduit connector, assuming the flex is 1/2". As long as there are no space constraints such as the junction box being in the way of the microwave going all the way in, you should be able to just take out the receptacle and hardwire it. With the old microwave being cord and plug connected, the junction box is probably in an adjacent cabinet instead of in the way? Since the circuit was fine for the other microwave, we probably don't need to worry whether or not it is a dedicated circuit. The circuit does need to have a way to lock the circuit in the off position since this eliminates the plugin, in order to meet codes. 422.31 Disconnection of Permanently Connected Appliances (B) Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes or 1/8 Horsepower. For permanently connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes or 1/8 hp, the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is capable of being locked in the open position. The provision for locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without the lock installed.