I know just what you mean. I had not done any sewing in a really long time until recently and found the patterns to be so different.. I have been making my 2 grandaughters some sundresses. For the 3 year old I use a size 2 and the 5 year old a size 5. I hate when all of these patterns come with 4 sizes in one envelope. For the sundress I made I took the pattern and made 5 copies. Then I went and cut out the 5 sizes and wrote the size on the copy and placed all of them in a large ziplock bag.

I have no plans for sewing for myself.. It would probably drive me to drink!!!!! I don't think I have the patience.. Now a days at my age ( 60), I have to be in the mood to even get started.

Just try to enjoy what you are doing..

What i do is take say a ready to wear blouse i have that fits me the way i like,and lay the pattern pieces out on that and make any adjustments that way.I agree the pattern co's are nuts with their measurements.They don't take into consideration that some of us have boob and hips and butts and even bellys.LOL

When i do find a pattern that fits well i use it to death.I also iron ,iron on interfacing to the back of it so it last longer.

If you have an old pair of capris that have spots on or somethingbut that fit you well,take them apart and make your own pattern and don't forget to add seam allowance.

Sorry you are having a frustrating day.Been there,done that!!
Kathi

Phyllis, I used to make all my clothes, and I'm pretty darn good at it. Then a few years ago I got busy and lost almost 30 lbs. Well, of course, I gained it all back, but now it's not in the same places it was before! Anyway, my recent attempts at making garments have been pretty frustrating, too. Nothing fits, no matter what size I make. So...I haven't tried to make any clothes lately.

Donna

I feel your pain.

The big four pattern companies (Simplicity, Vogue, Butterick, McCalls) all use the same sizing criteria; the differences are so minute as to make no difference at all. That's the good news. And it is good news: once you know which size you are, it's the same for all 4. Once you know which adjustments you might need to make, it's the same for all 4.

However -- Sewing pattern sizing has NO relationship AT ALL to RTW. A RTW "size 14" has absolutely NO correlation to a sewing pattern size 14. The "size" on the pattern envelope is just a number, not a judgment. Really.

Body measurements and finished garment measurements are two different animals. The finished garment measurement includes, in addition to your body measurement, extra fabric for ease. Both wearing ease (so you can sit, stand, walk and move around - otherwise your garment would be skin tight) plus additional fabric for the style ease. On the pattern envelope the style is mentioned in the garment description: Fitted blouse, Semi-fitted blouse, loosely fitted blouse, etc.

Do not be intimated by a NUMBER! Remember, any garment you sew for you will be YOUR size. There is no 14, there is only Phyllis size.

Been there, oh, have I ever been there,
CMC

ps: The Simplicity, McCalls, Vogue, and Butterick web sites have all the size measurment charts online, and other great info.

Here's a link to a great fitting brochure from Simplicity -- for any sewers out there struggling with sizing.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fitting Brochure - pdf file

I too know that rtw and patterns are nothing alike! I agree with CMC, it's Susan Size. I think I wear 8 pattern sizes larger than ready to wear. I don't pay any attn to the sizes on the envelope I look at the measurements.
Susan

Plus the directions have changed. My niece is in 4H making a simple jumper, her mother called having trouble figuring out the shoulder seams. Should be simple right? Both her and I have not done garment sewing for a few years. the way you put the facings ,partially sewed under arm area and then finished the shoulders completely baffled us both. If it hadn't been for 4H we would have done it the "old" way. She ended up taking it to the instructor and she had a problem too, thank goodness, nothing like feeling like a dummy. I used to do a lot of garment sewing when the kids were younger, but now mainly quilt and craft type thiangs.

Oh I hate those kinds of shoulder seams. Basically you have to put it together and then see how it fits. I had a vest pattern like that and just about screamed trying to get it to work. I think because it was lined that you had to piece it all together and then hope it was long/short enough! Whatever!

I don't understand why, if everyone knows how crappy the patterns are sized, the companies still make them this way! Do they not care? I'd like to email them and ask what they suggest. And the idea of using a pattern-fitting pattern from one of these people makes me laugh. It might work, but the idea is kind of ironic, isn't it! LOL

I have heard of the idea of taking a ruined pair of pants that fit and tearing them apart to make a pattern. The problem is I have no pants to use for this purpose. better start hitting the garage sales! ;)

Ahh, the supposed "joys" of home sewing! :>

CMC, I forgot to ask - since it sounds like you know what you're talking about ;) can you recommend any good books on pattern fitting? I know there are tons out there and the reviews on Amazon can be a bit daunting. i do have one - Singer's "The Perfect Fit," but to be perfectly honest some of the directions go completely over my head. I need to hear and see it explained in person, usually! (Which is why the pattern instructions are mostly like reading CHinese to me, thus leading me to do things my own way - which isn't so good! LOL)

I did go to a quilting show a few years ago and came across a lady who had her handmade garments there. She was a professional seamstress and made some of the most beautiful clothes I'd ever seen, even better than storebought, I thought. I can't remember her name - Mary something? She has a website and a kit/patterns stuff that you can buy, but her name escapes me. Does anyone know? (I'm sure there are probably tons...) I'd LOVE to know how to sew like that! Where can I take low-pressure sewing classes?

Phyllis,are you sure it wasn't Martha Pullen?? Put her name into google search and you'll find all kinds of books,and i believe she also does videos on fitting,sewing etc.She's very good.JMO
Kathi

Hmm, no I don't think it was her. Darn it if I can't remember her name, but I met her at the quilt show. She's an older lady, probably upper 60's, I'm guessing, and she uses a few basic patterns to make all kinds of stuff in her wardrobe. I think she starts with a basic shell, skirt, etc. and shows you how you can make a ton of stuff from just a few patterns.

Was it Sue Hausmann? Her book "SewFast, Faster, Fastest" has directions for quick skirts, reversible blouses and sweatshirt conversions (to jackets), and other ideas.

Mary

Phyllis you sound just like me. My suggstion...rid your mind of any RTW sizes and learn your personal measurements. Try a pattern that has a easy skirt AND pants, make the skirt first, that way you have the waist down pat, then transfer that waist measurement to the pants. When you do make the pants, cut the crotch with a 1 inch seam allowance and BASTE it. Then wear it around the house and sit down and stand up. If its comfy, then finish the crotch. The best book I have used for alterations is Nancy Zieman's "Fitting Finesse". The pattern I chose for my experiment is Simplicity Easy Chic 5311. I also recommend making a muslin or cheap fabric pre-test before cutting out the good stuff. A lot of work I know, but time well spent! Good Luck!

My list of favorite fitting books:

Fit for Real People, Pati Plamer and Marto Alto

Fitting Finesse, Nancy Zieman

Fast Fit, Sandra Betzina

I often consult all 3 of these, just to double check that I've identified the actual problem and to compare pattern adjustment techniques. Although the techniques differ slightly, (slash here instead of there or pivot and slide), the results are the same in all 3 methods.

Another book that has helped me a lot is Fantastic Fit for Every Body by Gale G. Hazen. This one is out of print, but available used on Amazon.

If you are looking for an encyclopedia of pattern alterations, this would not be my first choice. However, Ms. Hazen explains the entire concept of pattern alterations and what you are trying to accomplish in a way that just "clicked" in my brain. She also spends a lot of time discussing body shapes and selecting the right pattern.

http://www.amazon.com/Fantastic-Fit-Everybody-Patterns-Flatter/dp/0875967922

At least check it out of the library and take a look at it. It really helped "get" the concepts of fitting for myself.

CMC

I agree about pattern directions these days..think they were smoking something funny when they wrote them. I pity the new sewer trying to follow those directons.

Even though the pattern directions say to do it one way, and you can try it their way (I pin to see how it works), it's always wise to use the method you know best for better results.

I used the McCalls Palmer-Pletch pattern to make a pair of grey wool slacks that turned out a success. I took a lot of time fitting that pattern and like the other poster compared it to a pair of well-fitting RTW slacks--that method really works.

Please don't give up on sewing. We all run into patterns and projects that don't turn out well and learn from them.

I still can't remember that woman's name but I guess it's not that important! it just bugs me though. ;) But this has been probably two years ago that I saw her stuff (probably longer than that, even) so I fear there's no chance of recalling the info! LOL

I did get some books out of the library and so far am liking Sandra Betzina's "Fast Fit." I looked at another one of hers and she's pretty straightforward and easy to understand. another one I'm looking at is "The Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets" by Cecilia somebody and it's ok, pictures are good; but directions sometimes go over my head. I'm afraid in this case it's not going to take a whole lot to do that, LOL. She uses the pinfit method of pattern fitting instead of cutting out from muslin. I'm not sure it's any easier or less time-consuming than fitting it in muslin first. I also like Sandra Betzina's idea of making the dressmaker shell that the pattern companies put out.

I was looking at Butterick's website and the new Connie Crawford "Ready to Wear sized patterns." I had to laugh - the measurement chart she provided sounded exactly like the pattern companies old ones! LOL That surely accomplishes a lot, doesn't it? *sigh*

I'm certainly glad most ready to wear clothing doesn't fit this way, or we'd all have to go around naked! :O

I have a similar question & was just searching to see if it had already been answered when I found this thread. What do you do when the pattern only goes up to size 20, hip measurement 41 and I need bigger? Why would they even make a pattern where the biggest size was 20?

Marti8a,

Which brand sewing pattern brand are you using?

I checked Butterick, McCalls, Vogue, and Simplicty. All 4 list a hip body measurement for size 20 as 44 inches.

However, not every pattern comes in all sizes. Some Misses patterns have size 18 or 20 as the largest size for that pattern, and other Misses patterns go up to larger sizes. Womens size patterns (also called "Plus Size") tend to run larger, and the proportions are slightly different (check the measurement charts). Simplicity has a nice line of stylish Womens size patterns under the designer name Khaliah Ali.

So, no, not every pattern comes in every size. The (unfortunate) short answer to your question is to buy a different pattern that DOES include the size you need.

If the patten is a dress with a full skirt, you can probably adjust the skirt to be fuller. If it's a pants pattern or a more fitted skirt, this will be a bit more difficult.

Take a similar garment in your closet that fits you well and measure the garment at the hip line. Then take your pattern and measure the pattern pieces at the hip from seam line to seam line and add up the measurements (don't include the seam allowances). Will the pattern produce a garment with similar hip measurements to the garment from your closet?

CMC

They're hard to find, but I really like Stretch and Sew patterns. Sometimes you have to go to a shop that sells machines, to get the patterns, or buy them online. The directions actually make SENSE. As for the measurements, they don't use 10/12/14/16 etc....they use hip measurements and the waist measurement is usually more reasonable in comparison to the hip!!

If I have to use one of the Big 3 patterns, I use the "Donna" measurement, not the RTW size. I'm a size 12 pants in RTW (now that I've lost 30 lbs), but in patterns, I'm still in something ridiculous sounding! In S&S patterns, I'm in a size 38 pants.

DonnaR/CA

donnar57 - I totally agree with you. Stretch and Sew (not just for stretch fabric) are wonderful. I have three file drawers of them (200+ patterns). Styles come and go but it doesn't take much adjustment to change a style if you know you are going to get a good fit. I understand Ann has retired so there aren't as many patterns available as there once were, but the web site still has more than 40 for sale. Some of my patterns I have made dozens of times, other I haven't made but I learned something from all of them. Some people don't like multisize patterns that they have to make another pattern from, but I find that most bodies are multisize. Not only that, but mine keeps changing sizes so I love that option.

Here is a link that might be useful: Stretch and Sew

Phyllis,

I hope you're still reading this post.

I believe the woman you're trying to think of is Mary Mulari. Here's a link to one of her books.

She also has a website: www.marymulari.com

Here is a link that might be useful: a Mulari book