Well, I still haven't found a definitive answer on the wood moisture %, but things are looking up, although the job has taken longer than planned. We tried the hose test as suggested and did not see any moisture intrusion. I hired someone to apply Siloxane to the brick exterior, as an added precaution. The sheetrock was removed, the studs and trim wood cleaned & treated, and a mildewcide applied everywhere. Moisture readings are down dramatically after several days of airing out then running the dehu at night. We're holding off on the new (MR) insulation and drywall until this Saturday because heavy rain is expected Friday and that should be a good test. If all goes well, I hope to have the wall repaired and painted by Monday morning.

HI Karezz! Good advice from the two posters. >>> If you haven't already done so...use stripping solution to remove all residual paste. Then, a couple clean-water rinses, and a day to dry. * The water in your primer is reactivating the paste and gelling with it. * Feather-sand the edges of your dried primer so there's no "edge" anymore. *Because it's a RED color, use a gray-tinted primer. In this case, try to find: >>> Gaardz, by Zinsser. Have it tinted with Black, up to the limit of 2 oz./gallon I believe. Check on can though! >>> BIN primer by Zinsser. Smelly, but very effective at blocking glue bleed-through. Tint this with black colorant too...check the limit. >>> 123-Latex primer by Zinsser. Have this tinted with 2 oz. of Black per gallon. TWO FULL coats of Red about 6-hrs. apart. Best of Luck! Faron

That was an incredible article! And describes exactly what my problem is. Thank you. I mentioned that there had been panelling or wainscoting. This was is one of the smaller rooms. Unfortunately it had been covered with materials that blocked any vapour movement. And it was also riddled with woodworm, so it had to go. The wood supports nailed into the bricks were fine at higher levels, but had rotted closer to the ground - capillary action with ground water which I can do nothing about. Even if I removed my current floor and waterproofed it, the fact that I have neighbours sharing both inside walls means that their water will just come over any barriers. And replacing the floor is also (currently) out of my budget. So far, the lime plaster I have has softened and crumbled in the areas where damp has come through because of the uncovered and currently unused chimney, near the single glazed and rotten windows and near the broken guttering. Only a small area has been affected by the groundwater. I might not need to replace all plastering. Where the wainscoting has been taken doen, there is bare brick. But replacing this wainscoting would be a great idea, especially if I can then plaster and paint with a breathable colour on top. It also means I can hide gas and water pipes behind them. I suppose the last layer lasted for 80 years, although the woodworm had a party for most of that time. Perhaps there are non-wood breathable materials I could use? Wood would be an expensive option for the square footage. And how clever would it be to add a layer of cellulose or sheepswool under this? Or an insulation material which can deal with damp? However, internal humidity will be a lot higher soon, due to the replacement of windows (they have trickle vents, but a trickle is nothing compared to the air movement I have now!), new and insulated roof, blocking the chimney opening with a gasfire flue and replacement of gaps in the mortar. That's my fear - that even by having a house that lets moisture in and out, it's still pretty airtight and keeps the inside too humid. And a complete ventilation system is quite expensive over here, although I'll have a unit placed in the bathroom. With the latest European EPC standards, my refusal to have damp proof chemicals, thick impermeable insulation and artificial ventilation means the value of my house suffers. But they can change what they want when I'm in a retirement home! Maybe the regulations will have accepted that most of their recommendations for older houses are incorrect unless they are knocked down and rebuilt which would be a real pity. Thanks for that article. Absolutely brilliant! So next question: is wooden wainscoting the only breathable option? Are there other products out there, both modern or traditional looking, that would work as wainscoting panels? And would I be adding to the problem by sticking a layer of hygroscopic insulation between it (might mean the dog barks less loudly!). And apart from leaving the windows open in summer and winter for 20 minutes a day (prefer to save the heat in the winter), what other ways might I increase ventilation/reduce condensation into the brickwork without burning a hole in my pocket? Thanks AGAIN!!! Photo shows the remnants of original wainscoting supports and brick underneath. Sarah.

If that is condensation running down the inner surface of the foundation walls, the basement has been insulated incorrectly. In which case, it is in fact what you would expect and is "normal".