Finding the slats will be as difficult as finding a matching door.Finding new slats and matching the stain is easier---but no piece of cake. The door can be glued back together---as long as it is properly clamped and reinforced on the inside----probably not a DIY job unless you have several different pipe clamps. The finish looks like stain/varnish---a popular combination used by builders. I replicate that kind of color---the tone comes from time and aging and will not be the same if the original materials were used----by using different shellacs over the stain to create the amber tone----then the varnish deepens the color a shade or two. It takes some experimentation----but that is one way the pros do it.

Okay, I realize this post is months old, but, I have a similar problem! I have a brass chandy- thinking from Spain as well- heavy on the crystals, etc... Pretty much like the original poster's. I have a similar issue as well- except I bought mine for 5 bucks at an estate sale and it's been in storage for 2 years. Well, I'm not sure if it was broken in my storage or already broken when I bought it (doesn't matter) but one of the arms that holds crystals is broken. It is solid- doesn't have any electrical running through it... Just need to put it back together so I can reattach it and hang the crystals. How did it get fixed? I've looked on eBay for 3 weeks with no luck. I'm going to start hitting up Goodwill around here to see if they have a chandy that I can buy just for parts- I'm to the point if I can't repair the arm itself. Any help would be appreciated!

I think we have decided to keep the knee wall. I don't think the extra 6" in counter depth above the dishwasher is worth it. I have been really worried how that was going to look being so open like that. Especially given that we are going with the Blanco Culina Semi-professional faucet which is almost 2 feet tall. Now to decide what to do for the backsplash area on that knee wall. Do we carry the quartz up and over or use two rows of subway tile between the counter and ledge (will be quartz).

Thanks Klem & Virh Yes, I know that old siding is asbestos. I've cut it 1/2 doz times in 20 yrs, but had all the proper PPE. What amazes me is that stuff is hard as rock to cut & when drilling a hole, a brand new bit will dull qkly, and the drilling site will turn like a red hot ember, but then the stuff breaks so easily. i have saved many of the broken pieces, so I can epoxy them to the material behind btw slab & siding.. since that deck siding is treated, is it wet so after ripping it, will it start to warp quickly or if it dries? It's ok if it warps left to right, but if it starts to contort itself, that would be hard to install it flush. Having someting behind is key & critical bc I want to fix all the siding & not have to address it again. Few questions: When I rip this, should I leave maybe an 1/8" space from bottom of deck board to bottom of siding to prevent wicking of rain and other? If I do plug the gap w deck board, is this going to prevent any type of "breathing" w moisture in house or other? The basic structure from outside to inside is: asbestos siding, felt paper, 1" pine T&G, studs, air gap/no insulation, T&G again, 1/4" painted 4x8 wood finish. The painted wood finishing was covered up by nice looking birch paneling bc it was old & chipping so that's the wall structures. If no problem filling the gap, I'll buy a new fine tooth table saw blade and go for it. Is there anything specific by brand name & make for the adhesive? Finally, I'm going to have to take a sm mirror and examine the gap to remove 100,'s of old cacoons and anything else. thanks again & did this from my cell ph so no editing if errors