Wow, that woudl be one tight garage!!!! Here is what I would consider doing instead: Keep the garage the same as the original but add closed cabinets where you are showing your coats/shoes. Lose the single door into the office-- it has the double doors into the goyer anyway. Then make that little hallways space into a smaller mudroom, since you do not need floorspace in the mudroom as much as you need wallspace, and the mudroom in your plan has a lot of wasted doorway/stair space. You could certainly annex some space by making that bathroom smaller and more efficient. You might be able to use some of that office area as well. But honestly, as drawn the mudroom does not seem especially efficient or useful and makes the garage space almost ridiculous if used for cars. That little hallway created by the office is completely useless space right now. You could also add some of that functionality to that are next to the front door-- another closet perhaps? But I keep coming back to the idea of turning that hallway into a real mudroom. How about if you relocated the vanity to across from the toilet? You could put in a pocket door (we have several and love them) and the bathroom would be half its current size, which would be fine since it is just a powder room anyway/ You can get lower profile vanities to save space. Ditch that office door and suddenly you have created a mudroom as large as the one you are considering without ruining the garage. I am picturing the bench area right where that office door is now. Then lots and lots of storage, floor to ceiling. One thing I am big fan of in mudrooms is to have sheves that are very close togetehr to hold many many pairs of shoes. One friend added two more shelves to each of her mudroom cabinets (since shoes are not very high) and then added hooks for jackets and leashes to the outsides of the cabinet doors-- talk about functional! It is very easy to swing open the cabinet doors with all their jackets and grab a pair of shoes. I am afraid that having the garage sp tight would really bother me--- you'd also have to be an incredibly accurate parker!!! But I am wondering if you think repurposing and remodeling the hallway might work.....

To sum up the changes from a week ago, it's now "Light up one big counter" and "Make the drawers a.b.a.p." rosieo, no matter what you do, you have a handle on the big things. I don't know if you will be happier with the range here or there; it may be a minor thing compared to all the other things you have figured out. In your set of images, photos 1 to 5 show the kitchen is in a windowless corner of the house. With a mirror on the wall you will get more light into the kitchen, coming from another angle. This makes a difference. ((B.t.w. Photos 1 to 5 make me think the footprint of the house is still in flux: I saw a storage area behind the pantry.)) Knowing now what I now know about your house, I would go to ikea for wood counters, for the price (way less than stone) and quality. Nobody has ever said anything bad about them. With the money saved, you can buy more of other things. If you have the money, you could have two single dishdrawers. When open to full drawer extension (or partially), they take up less space than a 30"high dishwasher panel. And, you cannot hit your shin on them. If you are certain that dishes will often go first to the sink (+disposer) before going to the dishwasher, you could justify putting the sink closer to the end, and the dishwasher on the other side of the sink. 500mm drawers If you go with the layout now shown in photo #10, know this: Your dead space corner could be reduced in size, if your counters were only e.g. 23.5" on top of 21" cabinets. Ikea drawers only need 21" space from front to back. Ikea 500mm length drawer slides are identical to the current model of Blum 500mm length drawer slides, and the drawers are almost identical, with an Ikea soft close damper added. I have them. I also have some of the longest possible Blum drawers: they're more spacious, but not a way way great thing to have absolutely. (p.s. length in this paragraph is the length of the gliders = depth of cabinet = distance front to back). If you went with the range-at-end, and then traded the range for a smaller one, you would have an easier time getting in and out of the corner it blocks. Is exhaust venting in your kitchen plan?

desertsteph - like that corner cabinet idea, I will ask the KD. Can't block the basement door too much by extending the island as we have no bulk head door in the basement. So if we need to move furniture, it has to go through the kitchen door. But I'm thinking I'll have to get rid of the end cab. Behind that wall is the entry hall closet. Need that. Although I would love to inset a fridge somewhere, an eye sore for me looking at it sometimes. Although could be all those darn magnets and pictures on it! :) Also, how do you think I should make the kitchen and dining room flow better? Looking at the current pictures, it looks like two separate rooms. Can't continue the wood floor since DH tracks in dirt from outside all the time, not practical. I think dark cab colors would make the room dark. ??

I have this fantasy of installing a bookcase / shelves next to a doorway or opening, but placing them 3" or 4" away from the wall. And then slide big flat things BEHIND the shelves (that's why "next to a door," so there's room to slide them out). And maybe install ledges on the back side of those shelves to hold those flat things up off the ground, or maybe make it possible to store one of them higher up (double-deck). What made me think of that was this item from your list: 2 folding tables (when guests come over) Set some deep shelves (as deep as the folding chairs are wide) by the door to the house (if there is one, or any other door) far enough out from the wall to fit those tables, and then install one ledge low down on the back side of the shelves so you can slide one table in to rest on it, and another ledge above it to set the 2nd table on. You could install those big utility hooks I linked to above, or a 7" ladder hook, on the end of that bookcase to hang the 6 folding chairs on, some low and some high. I don't know how many folding chairs would fit in the 7" depth, but it would be one way to keep them from falling over, etc. And they'd be close by the door and easy to use. Not sure if all 6 would fit; you'd probably need 3 hooks, and I don't know how easy it would be to maneuver chairs off the top hook (Most are 38" high--so if you put the lowest set of hooks so the support is about 39 inches above the floor (not to lift so much as to keep them from falling over) and the next set 39" above that, then thelegs of the top set of chairs would be 78"/6.5' from the floor, so most people would be reaching over their head to get them--not so smart from a safety point of view, probably. If there are stairs, you could reach them more easily, maybe. Or experiment with hanging them upside down from the cross-brace, and that might let you control them better when taking them off. EDITED TO ADD: I just looked it up, and most steel folding chairs are 2" thick when folded, so 3 would fit on each hook. Here's a 7" ladder hook. Not so good for bikes because it doesn't have much of a front "lip" the way the one above does. But probably easier to get the chairs off it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-x-7-3-4-in-Screw-In-Ladder-Hook-01219/202305568