Finally Painting My Interior Doors & Trim--Need Help

16 years ago

We moved in in 2003 and I immediately painted much of the house. I left the trim alone, because it is the same bone color as the interior 6-panel doors and I wasn't up to the task of doing all of it. A couple of years later, when I re-painted, I found Sherwin Wms Antique White closely matched the baseboards and doors, so I did some touch up painting. I am definitely NOT good at touch up.

So, in May, I have a week off and plan to do a Good job on my trim. I may change the color to a lighter shade, perhaps BM White Dove or SW Linen White. If I do, I need to take down doors and paint them to match. Here's my main question:

If I just buy all new trim, maybe in a 4" profile, paint it outside on sawhorses, and get my son to install for me, will it be a better job (translate to 'easier') than, to try to sand and repaint all the existing baseboards? I realize that I would need to 'touch up' the nail holes in the new installed trim anyway, but I'm just trying to weigh this out in terms of having my effort come out looking really good. I don't know how much prep work is involved in painting new (probably MDF) trim as opposed to prepping the already painted baseboards.

Here's a shot of my entry so you can kind of see why all the doors are a bit daunting....

{{!gwi}}And if I replace the baseboards with a bigger piece, will I have to replace around the doors, or is that fine? I guess I never notice these details in other's homes, so please excuse if my question is dumb.

Red

Featured Answer

lkplatow

16 years ago

I've painted about a zillion 6-panel doors between my last house and this one, and you don't need to take them down. Do take the doorknobs off, but that's about it. You can either edge carefully or tape off the hinges, depending on how good an edger you are...and if you're a bad edger, the good news is that paint is very easy to scrape off of metal hinges (ask me how I know....)

There is an order to painting a 6 panel door, though. You start by painting the recessed rectangles, then the flat panels inside the rectangles. You can either do all 6 at once or, if your paint is drying quickly, just do the top 4. Then do the vertical panels between the rectangles. Then do the horizontal pieces above and below the rectangles. Then finally, down the sides. You want the brushstrokes to logically follow the lines of the doorframe, with the vertical pieces of the frame between the inset panels being "trumped" by the horizontal pieces going across the door, which is then "trumped" by the outer vertical pieces. If my paint is drying too fast, I'll just do the top 4 rectangles and then everything around them down to where the bottom 2 start, then start with the inset rectangles of the bottom 2, and sort of meet in the middle of the vertical outside pieces.

Watch for drips - the paint will tend to pool in the bottom corners of the inset rectangles and then drip down. By the time I get to the bottom rectangle, I can usually look up and see the start of a drip at the top ones...I just wipe it with my brush. If I move on to another door, I'll make a point of checking for drips on the first door for at least 15 minutes or so....but that's partly due to the fact that I've been using Cabinet Coat, which is a pretty thin paint that flows out well (which causes a lot of drips that sneak up on you if you don't keep an eye on it). Never painted with Pro Classic, so I don't know how drippy it is.

If you're not doing both sides of the doors and all the edges, you should at least also paint the edge of the door that faces into the room when you open it. If your entry doors open towards your foyer, that would be the side closest to the doorknob.

Good luck! I just started the trim on my upstairs hall today - there's 7 doors and 6 windows, plus tall baseboard, crown molding, and a couple stair and balcony railings with about a million balusters. I figure I'll be done in about 15 years.

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Comments (17)

igloochic
16 years ago
I personally wouldn't replace good trim if I liked the lines of it. Just prep well and you'll be fine. You want to use painters tape to outline your walls, then seal that by running a finger covered in a wash cloth next to the seam line (at the edge of the wood you're painting). When actually applying the paint, be sure not to have a loaded brush an the seams...two light coats verses one heavy coat is always better.

I'd prime with a SW primer (follow the links in my name and you'll see the names of the primer I like to use that does not require sanding before painting). My link talks about coloring it dark...you don't need to do that obviously. One coat of primer, two coats of paint. I would use a high gloss only (it's stronger and recommended for doors and trim). I personally like the SW product I have linked as well.

You can remove and repaint trim, or remove and paint what you have then reinstall. I wouldn't...but I'm a careful painter. I certainly wouldn't take the doors down! Tape carefully and proceed. I'd remove knobs and their face plates but that's about it.

You have a very easy space to paint there...no carpet :) So tape and paint and make life easier ;)
nhb22
16 years ago
Can't see the photo, but I agree with igloochic.

Question: Can trim, like crown, be added to an old house with plaster walls and ceilings?
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redbazel
Original Author
16 years ago
Newhomebuilder, sometimes, when MSN is not being fun, you can't see the photo. Try right-clicking on the icon you see in the (blank) box and then clicking on 'view photo' or something like that. It might make it appear for you.

Igloo, I checked out your clippings and info. Thanks. I've been reading about trim painting in the 'Paint' forum for days. I bought a really nice Purdy brush from SW, along with a gallon of their Pro-Classic paint, since that's the one that seems to get all the thumbs up from Paint guys. (Haven't had it tinted yet and it IS returnable!) But they do say it's a learned skill.....to apply the pro-classic. Do you like the SW exterior paint you mentioned better for interior trim? And the primer step I think I will follow too. I want to do as many rooms in my home as I can get done on this go-round. And I was under the impression that the doors would need to come down, but if you think no.....

My lower back, along the hips has been paining me for weeks. (haven't seen a doc, a quack, a chiropractor, or a massage therapist yet........blah blah blah) so I'm concerned that if I'm still in some pain in mid-May, the sawhorse method with new trim might be easier on me. However, that depends on my son putting aside the day to install it for me. He's the fastest trim guy around, but he still has to make time.

Thanks,
Red
Michael
16 years ago
I don't know if it's ok for pro's to come over here, but here I am..lol

Make sure the doors and trim are clean! If they haven't been washed in the last two weeks, wash them with Dirtex or a solution of water and ammonia. Sand all surfaces to a dull sheen prior to priming.

I prefer the SW PreRite Classic primer. It holds the gloss much better than most other primers. A light, very light sanding is desirable for best topcoat finish. Caulk all gaps and joints after sanding is complete.

Pro Classic is superior for interior trim. Satin or Semi-Gloss finish is the most preferred. At least by my customers. A Purdy nylon/poly brush is not the correct brush for Pro Classic or any other heavy bodied waterborne paint. Choose a Chinex brush and the application and results will be much better. Chinex brushes are made by Purdy, E&J, Corona and other quality manufacturers.

I never paint a hanging door, but that's just my perfectionist tendencies.

Have fun with it.

Michael
Michael
16 years ago
Casing trim, around the door jambs is 2 1/4" (most common) to 2 1/2" (when remodeling).

Michael
lkplatow
16 years ago
Michael - what do you mean by "It holds the gloss better than other primers"? - do you mean it sticks to glossy paint? I have a stair handrail that has been painted in super-glossy oil paint. I've sanded and sanded but it's still kind of glossy. And since it's a handrail, it's going to take lots of abuse. I had planned to prime it with Zinsser 1-2-3 before topcoating with latex (maybe cabinet coat, maybe something else latex that can be tinted black, not sure yet), but if there's a better primer, I'd love to know!

Red - sorry for the hijack.
annzgw
16 years ago
Good to see you again Michael!

Red: just wanted to comment on your back problem and using the saw horses. I've done lots of remodel work and find that bending over sawhorses is the worst thing for my back. It'll flare up everytime!

I also have one hip that bothers me now and then, but I find if a get an old blanket and sit on it (on hard floors) and scoot along the floor as I paint, then I have no problems. It also helps to take frequent breaks!
Of course, it all depends on the type of back problem you have, but thought I'd share what works for me.

I'm also one that prefers semi-gloss over gloss.
redbazel
Original Author
16 years ago
Thank you Annz. I am hoping/wishing that all will be well with my back by mid-May. Never had problems before. Stupid post-hole digger!

Michael, I was dying to post this on 'Paint' but I get so wordy and convoluted when asking my painting questions that I didn't dare. Thanks a heap for bringing your most professional self over here! And I positively Grilled the Sherwin Williams guy about the brush. I've read so many 'what brush to use' threads on Paint forum, that I asked about the Chinex or Corona brush especially. He told me this Purdy $15 brush was the best thing to use with the Pro-Classic. Well, it's returnable. I'll return it and go to one of the other paint stores to get the recommended brush.
I'm good at walls and have a steady hand, no fear of ladders. Usually don't even need to tape. But my trim work is deplorable and I want to do it right where it looks good this time.
The doors are gonna be a crapshoot. I did my entry door in place 3 years ago and it looks good. But I may just have my DH take these down so it can be a long-lasting and well-done job. Ikplatow, thanks so much for the color by the numbers plan for the doors.
Michael
16 years ago
lkplatow,

Enamel holdout means the primer does not absorb any of the topcoat sheen. In my field experiences, Zinsser 1 2 3 has good enamel holdout but not as good as SW Classic primer. A DIY painter will not notice the difference between the two products, but someone who uses both on a regular basis will notice the improved holdout that Classic provides.

When using primer, always use the one with best holdout for uniform sheen.

Michael
tracey_b
16 years ago
If you use Pro Classic, PRACTICE, practice, practice with it on a spare piece of molding. Yes, it has a LOVELY finish and I would prefer to have my trim painted in it, but I just couldn't feel comfortable using it myself.

Of course, I was a first time painter when I used it and didn't know that paints could be so different--boy was I in for a surprise. I got my door jambs done, but I couldn't get up the motivation to use it on the 500' of trim needed to finish off our basement. I wanted to pre-paint in the garage before it was hung, and I'd heard that I couldn't "just touch it up" at the nail holes, so the project went unfinished for almost a year. In the meantime, I figured out that our upstairs molding was "regular" latex semi-gloss and it'd held up fine in the 10 years since the house was built (no kids, and I'm careful with the vacuum/broom, etc.), so I decided to go with that, and I'm perfectly happy that I did--I got the molding painted in 3 days in the garage, and touchups look non-existent in the basement.

Good luck!
Tracey
igloochic
16 years ago
I have absolutely no issues with using the proclassic primer and didn't need to practice with it at all. I guess I just don't get that.

I also have used many a brush, but like the nylon for this application. I don't have brush strokes...but I don't paint as much as a pro so perhaps it's use and use and use :)

I think that people are reading the information in my clipping incorrectly. The COLOR code I put in there is for a color called Woodsey Brown which is an exterior color (you typically get more deep tones in exterior colors) but the PAINT is NOT and exterior paint. Just the color!

The proclassic primer adhears to ANY surface, without sanding. I love the stuff because I've used it on some very glossy surfaces and it's held like magic! I do wash surfaces and make sure they're free of dust and dirt, but I rarely sand anymore. My professional painter was very skeptical but is now sold on the quality of these two products together. The primer is a gem, and the quality of the top coat is wonderful as well. I like a high quality finish and a strong finish as well...and together these two will give you that in any combination of colors ;)
Michael
16 years ago
Nobody is suggesting that the primer needs practice. *S*

If we're talking about the same product, PrepRite Classic Primer, sanding to dull is highly recommended. I never advise to prime over a gloss surface unless using a Bonding Primer, which Classic is not.

Michael
lynninnewmexico
16 years ago
Red, I'm a novice when it comes to painting, but I'm anxious to see what you decide. I love seeing pics of your beautiful home . . . and your cute pooch, too.
igloochic
16 years ago
Just to be clear...this is the paint in the post...I don't understand the need to practice with either the primer or the paint :oP But then I rarely read instructions either (and the primer is a bonding primer...no sanding necessary). I'd sand if it were Kilz or something...but no need with this (this is after using it several years and seeing it hold):

Clipping:

Primer
Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (it's the most expensive...but if you don't like sanding or using chemicals to prep, this is the stuff for you!). I've never had to sand or strip first using this on the worst shiny stuff.

Paint
Sherwin Williams Exterior All Surface Glass Enamel
Code IFC411X
Woodsy Brown 100% mix formula 2924 (color code)
They use Acrylic Latex HIGH GLOSS Ultradeep base 6403-25932
Code A41T00204

The info came off the labels. It's for a deep color primer and paint. Obviously they come in white.
squirrelheaven
16 years ago
I dunno not'in, and I see Igloo wrote that this wasn't *really* an exterior paint being listed. But it does *say* 'Exterior' (so I'm confused). Anywho, for safety purposes I will mention -- I believe I read not to use exterior paint indoors, as the formulations are quite different, in order to stand up to outdoor weather conditions, and there are harmful VOCs.
Michael
16 years ago
igloo,

You and I are on different pages. You mention proclassic primer and then mention pro block.

Labels and ID is very important in the paint trades. Pro Block is a different animal than Classic primer. Different game.

Michael

Finally Painting My Interior Doors & Trim--Need Help

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