I went to make the repair and realized I have 1.5" pipe, not 2" (stupid). I was originally surprised at the amount of water accumulation, but I'm not well versed on how much condensate to expect. I have a cup underneath the drip right now, and collected maybe a few ounces in a 24 hour period. I can tell you this: After coming down from the roof, the line goes horizontal and from visual inspection appears to be pitched in the right direction. After maybe 8' of horizontal run there is a short 90 elbow, also horizontal. Then there is a short, say 1" section of pipe connected to this 90. This 1" section is mated up with a pvc coupling ring. This coupling is mated with about another 4" section of pipe until it meets a 90 oriented vertically. The drip is between the coupling and the 4" section of pipe. It appears they glued the wrong length pipe and then used a coupling to fix the problem. There must be a small gap between the coupling and the 4" section of pipe where the water finds a low spot. My plan was to cut the long 8' run of pipe just upstream of the horizontal 90, and also cut the 4" section of pipe after the leak. Then put new couplings on the existing pipe and connect a new horizontal 90 with new 1.5" pipe. I've done a number of pvc glue jobs and one thing that always bothered me: When I dry fit the pieces to check spacing, I can only twist the various parts together so much. When I apply glue the pieces then slide together tighter due to the lubrication, and then my spacing is off a little. I'm reluctant to push the pieces together less than the full amount when lubricated for fear of getting a leak. Do you oversize your piping sections a little to account for this, or just leave a little slack with plenty of glue? I haven't had any pvc leak on me yet, but always struggled with this. I thought maybe to glue everything together except the last coupling, and then dry fit that last connection and cut down the pipe as needed to make the final fit.

I removed tank again and looked closer. The bolt hole on one one side became slightly oblonged with a small liip on one end.I also removed the flapper assy and inspected that also . looked ok on mounting surface. I added clear siicone on gaskets that mounted to bottome of tank for flapper assy and bolt gaskets. let sit to dry and no ore leaks !!! thanks for your help.I should have looked closer when replacing parts but didnt think the bolt holes would would make a difference but they do !!

Thanks. I am assuming given that I am not going to be using the air conditioner for 6 more months, I can drain it out and should be good? Wrong, during heating condensate is also produced. It needs to be fixed before both the cooling and heating season. I also suspect the condensate pump considering it is full, it will normally empty out once the float activates the pump but clearly there is something wrong with yours. The pump may have just quit working and need replaced. They are not that expensive.

One small help is to move your laundry to the basement and vent the dryer to the outside. The dyer will pick up air from the basement floor and exhaust it to outdoors. Older style furnaces (pre high efficiency) was a big help during the heating season. These passed a goodly amount of basement air up the chimney. High efficiency furnaces do not pass inside air to outside. If you have well water from a deep well, it may be a source of radiation. Cities and villages in Waukesha county who pump water from the"lake superior" aquifer are having problems with radon levels above the acceptable standard. In Sussex, that aquifer is 1100 to 1200 ft below the surface. The city of Waukesha has finally gotten permission to get enough Lake Michigan water to mix with their well water to bring radon down to an acceptable level. Why was this so difficult? Its because Waukesha is on the west side of the Lawrencian divide. There are agreements between US and Canada to prevent the depletion of the Great Lakes. Rainfall on the west side of the divide flow to the Mississippi outflow while rainfall in the east side of the divide flow into the Great Lakes and out the St. Lawrence river. The City of Waukesha had to return water across this divide equal to the amount taken. They do this by returning treated sewerage. After a long and arduous process, it began this year. The undefined problem: What is an acceptable radon (or radiation) lever? As I understand it, this is unknown. The type of radiation given off by radon and other nuclearides is known to be not good for the human body, but how much is acceptable is a question. The trend is to set the standards low to be on the safe side.