Replaced all the parts but toilet still leaks....I need help.
cruzmisl
15 years ago
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george_moore74
7 years agoJenn
6 years agoRelated Discussions
still need help I'm going crazy!
Comments (10)The problem here is you don't know what's wrong, and so you go to replacing stuff that doesn't need replacing, and fixing stuff that doesn't need fixing. The truth is - we've all done the same thing at one time or another. It's the way untrained mechanics get things done, or not. I used to supervise large construction projects, and we had a lot of heavy equipment. We also had a full time "backyard mechanic" to fix the small things that went wrong. Once he worked on a 20 ton yard crane for three days trying to get it to run. I finally realized he had no idea what was wrong, and called Cummings diesel. The guy came out and in less than 30 minutes found the problem. I learned something that day. I learned it's easy to fix the stuff you know is broke, but sometimes when you don't know what it is - it's better to take it to someone who has seen it before, like a dealers service department, as hard as that is to take - it might turn out to be cheaper....See MoreReplacing an Oil Furnace... Still have some confusion...
Comments (13)dandm2007... My old Magic Chef oil furnace cracked a heat exchanger last year. There was a mild odor in the house when it ran - kinda like kerosene. Sometimes, the CO detector would give a warning beep-beep-beep - although it never went on to the constant BRAAAAAP, which means "get out now!" I didn't have a smoke bomb, so I removed the supply plenum and with a flashlight I found an 8 cm crack on the heat exchanger. It was on the weld between the "inner drum" and "outer ring" (ptimary and secondary exchanger?). It was not easy to spot. The supply plenum - and the ductwork closest to it - had light coat of soot on the inside. It was most noticeable on the joints and elbows. That was the exhaust leaking by the crack. I've dark-coloured log walls. So I couldn't see soot above the registers. Light-coloured walls may have shown some sooting. A properly running oil furnace should emit no odor. I can't smell my furnace at all inside or outside the house. There is NO visible smoke from the chimney. On really cold days I'll see some water vapour, but that's it. Unfortunately, when I first put in the replacement furnace there was an even stronger kero odor from the vents. That was all my fault. During my DIY install, the edge of the exhaust duct slipped under the collar on the back of the furnace. This allowed exhaust gases to get sucked into the return plenum, then right out the supply. It took me a day to figure out I had botched it. Oddly enough, the CO detector never made a peep. Is it possible that the vibration from a faulty power exhaust fan wiggled your exhaust duct past the collar? If your furnace pre-heats the return air over an internal exhaust tube like my Crown does, then you'd get the same kerosene odor that I did. I'm sure your CO levels would go up, as well. A wobbling exhaust fan could have also loosened your chimney. *** CALLING HAVAC and OTHER PROS *** Does dandm's horizontal furnace pre-heat the return like my Crown lowboy? If so, could it be sucking in fumes because the exhaust duct slipped behind the collar on the furnace?? Finally...could fan vibration loosen the collar or move the exhaust in that way? Peace. Marco...See MoreDanco 9H-8H/C replacement part for my shower hot water handle
Comments (0)I will write this here because I realized in my research, that this particular stem was not very common .. or at least, not common enough that people are writing about it in question/answer forums. It was very hard to find information, so I hope as this post becomes immortalized on the internet, that people might find it again in the future. My story: My shower head was dripping, and that lead me to see the reason as the hot water handle. I watched many YT videos, and they all mentioned a screw and a washer, and possibly a seat, that would need to be replaced. I felt confident to do that much. But it turns out, my particular bath handle is a Pfister with a different kind of stem/cartridge. It turns out that I needed one that could be replaced with an item called "Danco 9H-8H/C" (this item is currently easy to find on many websites and local stores, even if they don't carry as many of them for some reason). I went to my local Lowes and found only 2 .. I went to my local Home Depot and found none at the store, even no empty spot where they might be (though it is showing up on both stores' websites). Compare that to many other kinds of stems at the same time, still many were hanging on each peg. Example of the item: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-9H-8-Hot-Cold-Stem-for-Price-Pfister-Faucets-05850B/100571452 The original Pfister part is "Pfister 910-030 OEM Valve stem". If you just need to replace the washer, then that is possible. I'll get to why you might want to try this. https://www.amazon.com/Danco-89045-Bottom-Seal-Washers-Pfister/dp/B001ULAL70/ If you are the original owner, you may also be able to get a free replacement part. Check the Pfister website for warranty information. https://www.pfisterfaucets.com/parts-support/warranty-information In my case, it seems like the washer at the end, had become stuck to the pipes behind the wall. When I pulled out the stem, the washer stayed inside, and the stem itself came out, without that washer. It really was stuck because even if I moved my finger on it, it did not come lose from the wall of the pipe. I thought it strange but not knowing about pipes, I also did not want to dig at the washer with a plier or pulling object. What if I created more problems by now having a washer that was all torn up, but unable to be removed fully from the pipe, creating contact problems for a new washer? In the end, I went and got the Danco stem product mentioned above. I took out the new washer from the new one..and stuck the new stem into the pipe, hoping to make a connection with the washer. Somehow, that seemed to do the trick, because after putting everything back together, there was no more leak. I also admit that maybe the old washer was still OK, but something on the old stem was not holding out water. I can't confirm that though, since I could not get a good look at the old washer or I did not know how a new stem will hold off water since this stems seems to have holes in some of the white non-metal parts. I don't suggest this method though. You should want to use the new washer with the new stem. Maybe your old washer will come out with your old stem. However, for now, it made me feel good that there is no leak, and if a leak develops again in the future, I have more knowledge about how to go about fixing it. Now as for why you may just want to replace the washer only . First, it's cheaper. Just a washer compared to the whole new stem. Secondly, based on reviews, there seem to be some problems with this Danco stem. It seems to break again much sooner than later (check various sites for those reviews, so you can see it from the perspective of the person experiencing it). So a trend in the reviews seem to say that there could be design flaws in the Danco item, and if your original Pfister stem still works, then maybe just replacing the washer will be viable....See MoreToto toilets in new apartment suck (or don't suck)--need replacements
Comments (22)If it's an older Toto with the deep, "small" water spot, it might be the Acquia. We have one and I agree it's a terrible design (and there are other mfgs that make similar toilets, so it's not just Toto). Our other bathroom has the Ultramax and it's MUCH better, but again, this is an older model Toto. Our Ultramax is from 2003 and the Acquia was put in 2005 or 2006 (? not sure, going on memory). We have replaced the fill valve.....once. And we're retired, so we're home all the time. Those toilets get a workout, LOL! I believe CR rated the American Standard Champion as excellent - our plumber recommends them, but no other AS models. If you want a pressure flush, the Kohler is rated the best but very noisy....See Morestarben62
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