Question for Bill and Jeannine regarding the edge of the marble subways where the shower wall meets the painted wall. We are doing a shower in 2"x4" marble subways. They have a tiny beveled edge, but we don't know whether we should expect the tile contractor to bullnose the edges that meet the painted drywall or what? Do you just leave the marble tile as is? They do not seem to offer finished edge pieces for this tile, like there are for ceramics. Maybe you don't need them with stone tile? What do you do along those edges? TIA.

I'd absolutely go with the black (I can't remember the correct name) Silgranite sink. I have darker granite also, verde peacock. Not only does it look amazing but it's the best sink functionally I've ever owned and I've had quite a few! We tore out a stainless steel sink we had just installed a couple of years ago because it looked as old as our 20 year old house! I always assumed they'd be too pricey. Boy was I tickled when I saw how affordable they were. We bought ours sight unseen online based only on the advise of the forum folks and they didn't guide us wrong! We love it and I guarantee you will too!

Thank you all so much for the suggestions! I've been obsessing over these colors for quite some time now so most of the colors you all told me I had already sampled. lol! I was able to go look at the revere pewter in my friends home and I still wasn't impressed. In the places where it actually looked gray I loved it, but I couldn't handle the beige, which is what I saw most of. She had several areas of her home painted this color so I felt like I got to see the color for what it truly is. The hard part about all of this is that I cannot sample these colors in my own house. The house is a custom spec house so at closing the house needs to be finished. So, as GauchoGordo suggested, I can't just get the walls primed and paint when we move in. I had thought about getting ozark shadows lightened. I found a blogger through Pinterest who had done that and I loved it in her home. The problem with this is that I am not talking directly to the painter or Benjamin Moore, so I don't feel comfortable with asking for the lightened color in fear that it may come out wrong. We've had some previous miscommunications and I don't want any more trouble. So unfortunately, that is out. So with all that being said I ended up picking BM moonshine!!! It's not exactly what we are looking for, but it's dark enough to feel like there is actually color on the wall. It is also light enough to be a good base to build around. My main concern with this color though is that it may end up reading too blue. My dad used to be a residential painter and has told me that he will come paint if we don't like it. So we will live with it for a few months and see how we feel. I will definitely post pictures once it's all together! & just FYI the two other paint colors I ended up getting really torn between were smoke embers and stonington. Thanks again everybody!!! You guys are the best! Psyche45 - Piatra grey quartz is gorgeous! So glad to see more people using it! :) I am kind of digging your two samples on the left BM Mt Rainer Gray and BM Yarmouth Blue

Mongoct/Live Wire Oak, Thanks for the replies. Here's a photo I took right after the hot mop was done. You see it terminates at the outer half wall surface with a 'lip' maybe 1" tall (I didn't measure it so just guessing). So that centered tile in the entry sits above that and during a normal shower the water line (water that splashes over the drain to the door) doesn't go past about halfway the thickness of those half walls or doesn't go past the glass door that's centered between those half walls. So if I understand what you're saying about the capillary break, the tiler should've physically separated the thinset/mud under the entry area tile by creating a physical divider barrier to separate it from the thinset/mud under the rest of the tiles on the bathroom floor? I'm picturing a thin vertical layer of sealant (or membrane) from the bottom of the tile surface through thinset all the way through the mud down to meet the hot mop 'lip'? That would then form a barrier and force the water that gets under the tile to stay in the pan and go back towards the drain. I'm still trying to get a feel for how much water could be sitting under my bathroom floor (worst case) or if it's limited to a few areas of damp thinset due to wicking that are showing up as dark grout spots (best case?). Relative to the amount of water that seems to be making it down the drain, how much water are we talking about that could be wicking out through the thinset/mud/grout? 10%? 20%? 50%? How long does it take for the water that eventually sits on the concrete slab to evaporate or absorb into the slab itself? And what damage would this cause long term assuming the water never makes it to any wood?