Need Opinions on Grout Water Stains Outside of Curbless Shower
10 years ago
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- 10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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would like feedback/opinions about fixtures in curbless shower
Comments (9)With handheld shower head, they typically come with a wall mounting bracket...it can be a bracket on a sliding bar, a bracket on the shower arm that comes out of the wall, or just a plain old wall bracket, for example. You can usually buy additional wall brackets. So, for example, you could keep your "main" handshower set up where it is located in Figure 1, then mount an additional wall mounted handheld bracket near, or over, the bench. You want water on the bench? Just take the handheld off the main bracket and hang it on the bracket on the wall over the bench. Here's an example of a secondary wall bracket, you'll obviously find different configurations for different manufacturers: In several showers I've mounted a wall bracket low on the wall, at thigh/knee height, for shaving legs. So it's not uncommon to have one handheld and several wall brackets that the handheld can be moved around to. You have a 60" shower with mobility issues, so get the longest hose you can for your handheld. 8' long hoses are fairly common. It'll assist with not just showering, but cleaning the shower too. Being able to extend the handheld across the entire shower, or to the other side of a bench or wheelchair, will make things much easier. I understand the desire for the fold-down bench, and the fold-down is indeed a better option than a fixed or tile-in-place type of bench when a wheelchair may be needed in the future. But in showers where mobility may truly be an issue, I do recommend a removable bench or stool. It can be placed wherever needed in the shower. It can be used by a caregiver or by the one needing care. It can be removed from the shower and used as a seat outside the shower if needed. Another option is a "walker/seat" sort of like this one, you can use it to steady yourself as you move in and out of the shower, and to sit on as needed. It's not the prettiest, but it's the first one that came up in a search: There are "medical" looking seats like the one above, and nicer looking ones made from wood, or metal and wood. You can always install the fold down as you have planned, and add a removable bench down the road if the fold down alone doesn't suit your needs. Grab bars...good to think of this now. To economize, you'll want to plan out the bar locations and add solid "2-by" blocking behind the tile backer board for the grab bars to be mounted to. As an alternative to solid blocking, the best grab bar anchors I've found are Wing-It anchors. Expensive, but you can do chin-ups on grab bars mounted with Wing-Its: You have a 30" grab bar on the "north" wall and a 24" grab bar on the "east" wall. I'd recommend running those closer to, or right through, the northeast corner of the shower. That way someone standing under the fixed shower head has an easily accessed grab bar on either of the adjacent walls. I'd consider adding a 24" grab bar in front of the handheld as well. One other thing to consider...most handheld showers that mount on a vertical "slide bar", the slide bar is flimsy plastic, or thin-gauge metal. Not something you'd want to depend on to steady yourself if you had to grab hold of it. There are a few manufacturers that use a slide bar that is rated as a grab bar. They are structurally secure. Sort of the best of both worlds. And finally, you could use something like the following for your hand held shower head; a handheld bracket that can mount to a real world grab bar. Hope this helps more than it confuses. Best of luck with this project....See Morecurbless shower linear drain questions
Comments (35)Sorry to tag on to the end of this thread, it's already a bit messy to say the least. I have spent countless hours researching linear drains and am at my wits end! Bathroom floor is dropped by 1-5/8" from floorboards (2-7/8" below wood floor in adjacent room) in a 56-1/4" x 90" area ready for this project. I need to place the drain as a barrier by the entry way spanning the entire 90". Cannot go against back wall easily because of joist limitation.Tile will be sloped in from 14" outside of the shower including capilliary break then up to the back wall, drawing NOT to scale! I will have wedge wire grate and two 2" ABS outlets in to a 3" ABS drain, so not overly concerned about flooding the bathroom. I am aware of the 3" drop and wet room requirements. My main dilemma is how to terminate the linear at each side wall. I saw photos in another forum where the wall tile 'tabs' in to the drain channel, drain channel extends under wall tile at each end. In order to do this could the entire floor and drain be finished first with channel extended about 3/4" past the intended plane of the finished wall? Silicone caulk the drain at each end. Then the walls could be floated in and the tab cut on the bottom of the two opposite tiles that would sit in the channel. Floor will be hot mopped (I'm in California), walls lath and mortar, and the floor also floated outside of shower area. I'm on a wooden sub floor obviously. Finally, I have narrowed my options down to site sizable QM Delmar or the DERA-Line. Both have pros and cons, does anyone have any advice as in 'stay away from' or any pointers re these two drains? I realise the DERA is cheaper, 304 S/S as opposed to 316. The DERA is custom made to exact length rather than site sizable as in the QM or I may not even be asking the question about the walls. I'm leaning in the DERA direction because price is getting high and the wife is pushing to avoid linear, which would pain me after getting this close. The Dera is coming in around $1100 vs $1500. I thoroughly appreciate any advice or guidance anyone can give. Btw, i am not doing the job personally, just due diligence to be 100% certain nothing is compromised or overlooked. Thanks very much in advance....See MoreGrout or Epoxy for no stain on shower floor ?
Comments (18)One of my siblings started that profile, I don't keep tabs on them. I started mine roughly 4 yrs ago under a different name. Nice try though. Kelly (cx) gives good info but even he makes mistakes and we've gone behind him to fix them. (We live in the same town) If I'm correct, he does Schluter showers..or is it Kerdi? We don't deal with those products so I'm not sure. He's a nice man and he'll talk your ear off. Last time I saw him, he came in inquiring about what type of adhesive to use for a product. That was years ago. And yes pippabean, I only recommend standard sanded grout for the wet floor of the shower. We mainly deal with traditional mortar beds in the shower, these beds have pan liners in them. The pan liner is there to collect any water that escapes the drain into the mortar bad. A standard sanded grout is needed to allow this moisture to escape properly. Upgraded grouts like epoxy and single component grouts do not allow moisture or gasses to pass through, trapping the moisture in the pan liner. --Now, hindsight is foresight and I should have asked if the OP knew what type of bed was installed. (most homeowners wont know) But then again, I will still only recommend sanded grout. We've been down that road and I sure as heck don't want the OP, or anyone else, to go down that road. That could easily be a $1000+ repair. We've been in business since 1971. We've made mistakes and we've learned from them. My goal on this site is to offer advise and hopefully steer that consumer away from a costly mistake. In the end, it's their choice....See MoreCarrara Marble and Water-In, Water-Out Shower Pan Method
Comments (5)@avaaustin The process of attaching fiberglass mesh to ceramic/porcelain tile differs from natural stone processing. Mesh on the back of ceramic mosaic usually doesn't have a layer of glue between the mesh "cells". At same time, the main reason of "resin backing" attached to natural stone is to reinforce it and fiberglass mesh is attached using a "glue" that is mostly polyester. It, first, adds an impervious layer to the back of stone and can significantly reduce the evaporation. Secondly, there could be problems with how well the bond is between the mesh and the substrate since dry set or polymer-modified mortars don't adhere to it very well. True porcelain tiles, whether sealed or unsealed, have >0.5% water absorption. At same time, marble is a translucent stone that will still absorb moisture as vapor even after an impregnating sealer is applied. I can't tell you whether Bulletproof sealer will help you in your situation. With properly installed water-in, water-out system and stone with no "resin backing" it is best to avoid any sealer. That's my strong opinion. Sealing the stone but not sealing the grout will not make any difference. Impregnating sealers are all considered permeable but if there is trapped moisture under the stone unsealed grout won't help....See MoreRelated Professionals
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- 10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
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