Janieful: "The advanced toilet makes sense to me - at least much more than a separate bidet would. I have never used either, but bidets take up so much space. The one in all model is much more practical." The advanced toilet seats are not, strictly speaking, direct replacements for bidets, though one generic term for advanced toilet seats is "bidet seat." The first and foremost function of an advanced toilet seat is water washing a bit further to the rear than a bidet cleanses. Cleansing the anus with water is far superior to wiping (and spreading) with dry paper. Most current models of advanced toilet seat have a second washing function called "feminine cleaning," or a variant thereof, which has many similarities to the function of a bidet. As you may guess, that function directs the water somewhat further forward than the primary function does. However, in "real" bidets, the water comes from the front, whereas in advanced toilet seats, the water approaches from the rear, so there is a difference. The various brands of advanced toilet seats approach these functions in different manners. Inax, which invented the advanced toilet seat category, determined that the optimal angle of incidence of the spray on the anus should be 70 degrees from horizontal or, in other words, just 20 degrees from vertical. The Inax advanced toilet seats therefore have spray wands for posterior cleansing that extend out fairly far, so that the spray can be more nearly vertical. Toto, the biggest player in the market, was obsessed by the spectre of "backwash," the (small proportion of the) water that rebounds off the user's posterior, and accordingly Toto Washlets are designed to spray water at the anus at 43 degrees from horizontal, which reduces (but does not not eliminate) the amount of backwash that hits the spray wand. But spray directed at Toto's 43 degree angle does not wash as effectively as the 70 degree spray of the Inax models does. Inax addresses the backwash matter with an aggressive self-cleaning cycle for the spray wands, executed both before and after each use. As to the feminine function, Toto can get by with a single wand for both posterior and feminine cleansing, with two spray nozzles in the single wand, because the 43 degree spray angle for the posterior wash already is so shallow. Inax has to use a separate dedicated spray wand for feminine cleansing, because the wand that Inax uses for posterior cleansing would not be positioned well for the feminine cleansing function. But, whether or not you use the toilet seat for bidet-like functions, water-assisted posterior cleansing is a huge step up from dry wiping after a bowel movement. There probably is no way to upgrade your bathroom more effectively than to replace a passive toilet seat with an advanced toilet seat.

I guess no one else wants to tackle this problem: Under the IRC a lavatory is rated at 1dfu and an 1-1/2" line is rated for a maximum of 3dfu's so you may add the two additional lavs on that same vertical drain line However, you MAY NOT add them in the manner that you have illustrated. Under the IRC the bottom of the fixture arm at the trap may not be higher than the top of the fixture arm at the vent opening, therefore the vertical offsets you have illustrated are prohibited. The solutotion is to remove the existing sani-tee and replace it with a sani-cross (double sani-tee). Careful here, make sure you use a sani-tee because a wye & 1/8bend or combo would be prohibited. (See Illustration) With the sani-cross in place you now have two options. OPTION 1. If the center to center distance between the sink drains does not exceed 30" you could use an "End waste connector" or "Center waste connector" and attach both sinks to a common trap in the same manner as installing a double kitchen sink. That trap could then go into a single fixture arm to the stack. OPTION 2. While it is prohibited by the UPC, the IRC will allow two traps to be connected to a common fixture arm. Solution: extend the fixture arm out from the wall to a point midway between the two sink drains. Install a Double Wye then install a "Street 1/8 bend" in the side openings of the double Wye and a Female thread adapter on the end of the Wye. Now install a section of pipe and a trap adapter on each side opening as illustrated (NOTE: When a fitting is listed as a "street fitting" it has both a male and female end. You can install the male end directly into the previous fitting to save space) Install a threaded plug in the female thread adapter to make a cleanout.

I'm not sure how the pipes were before as I don't live there. Definitely changing out the tub. There was a leak in that bath and the other vanity was old and rotted as well as under the old floor. Needed a new vanity and the floor was prepped for receiving tile for the reno. Wanted a better vanity that could be part of the coming reno. My contractor said he work with the one I ordered here but I'm so fed up with the company I ordered it from (will be posting about them soon) I canceled it. Going to find a better quality one.

Lauren, there could be a million scenarios to your situation and most will not do you any good. It all comes down to the person you dealing with and the practices how they run their business. You buying a home from a builder, you have a contract which probably includes listed items that come with the house. Any deviation from these items the builder can charge you anything he wants...and nobody can do anything about it... It's pretty much comes down to "take it or leave it". Most custom home builders that I know don't do that, it is all about the person you're dealing with and their reputation and in your case if they try to jack-up the price that much, this is not a very good practice. I will give you one example of a similar situation. A few months ago I was doing 3 basement designs and layouts for homeowners who purchased new homes in the same development of 13 homes...most homes still under construction, they the 1st-3 to move in. All 3 homeowners were telling me the same thing that its impossible to get anything from their builder. Anything they want to upgrade is quadrupled in price, i.e you want oak stairs $6k extra, you want crown molding 3k per room, etc Its beautiful close to 1m homes, and when I came to one of them the 2nd time, they had a contractor there building coffered ceilings, doing crown, trimming out a few openings, etc. Back to drop cloths, back to dust, back to painting, when everything could have been done long ago before the closing and the builder reputation wouldn't be diminished. Most of the homeowners who purchased this homes know each other, 8 of them out of 13 homes are friends and work in the same field, and the first 3 who moved in warned everyone else that builder is impossible to deal with and he won't budge on anything. That said, there is always a mark up on upgrades because it involves extra work and you endure extra expenses, but the mark-up is not to bankroll a homeowner, its reasonable and its priced in the way to be worth while for the homeowner and so they keep on smiling while they job moves along. We not living in the stone ages, today you give a price for something within a minute you can pull up the phone and look up the price online, and everyone knows that and every industry is trying to stay compatible with pricing or nobody would be buying anything from them... and I'm sure nobody wants to look like an idiot for giving unreasonable price. Now put all that all mambo jumbo aside, I wish you best of luck with your new home and I hope everything will go smooth and you end up with a well built home!