I haven't seen any sign of my Salvia prunelloides yet this year :( It's such a pretty one too. jwmeyer, there are hundreds of salvia species (not strains), and many cultivars and hybrids of the species as well. Many are perennial, some are annual, and some perennials are grown as annuals in cold climates. Some do quite well in containers, others would sulk. There are drought tolerant winter growing salvias from South Africa, temperate climate ones from China, tropical ones from Central and South America, European natives and some native to the US. Some like full sun, some prefer shade, some are quite adaptable. I'm sure if you ask for a particular situation, you'll get plenty of ideas here. David

Sorry this post is so long, but... It is my firm belief, and I have experience on both sides of this (I am a homeowner and a general contractor in the San Francisco Bay Area), that the seeds of budget disasters are invariably sown during the sales, quoting, and contract process. You need to be obsessive about the details and about exactly where the money is going. If your budget is super-tight, I'd prefer as a contractor to get everything out in the open at the start of the project. You need to be prepared to add several sheets of specifications to the contract. The good news for you is that when it comes to contractor's services, it's a buyer's market right now. 1) Unknown items - termite damage, dry rot, in-wall damage to electrical system. Rot and termite damage are potential budget-busters, but they can be investigated beforehand, by crawling around under the house, poking holes in your interior walls and maybe in the exterior siding and seeing what's there. This can often be investigated for not much money. You can ask a contractor where the problems are likely to be found, and you or a handyman can poke some holes in the walls and see what's there. Most handymen can do a good job of covering up the holes if you find trouble that will drive you over budget. In many neighborhoods, contractors know what to expect: termites and dry rot are very often endemic to an area. If you find problems, get a clear statement of the extent of the problems into the contract, and a firm statement of the contractor's requirement to fix or work around those problems. You may have to decide not to do your project. 2) Unsurprising surprises: "The city says we need to add a new branch circuit for the new space, and ....". Specify in the contract that you are paying for all necessary work, including rough, and finish work, to deliver each of the items in your contract. For example, you are not paying for the installation of 3 new receptacles. You are paying for all electrical work, rough and finish, including any necessary upgrade of existing electrical systems, that is necessary for the installation of 3 new receptacles. Ditto for roof, HVAC, drainage, plumbing, etc. Even if you don't expect there to be changes in interior plumbing fixtures, make sure that the contract covers any plumbing changes required by structural changes. None of these things are really surprising to the contractor or the subs. 3) Changes in plans: changes in layouts require new plans, new permits, and an opportunity for the contractor to charge you for additional costs. Decide what you want and don't change your mind. 4) Unspecified details: Specify every single item you can imagine, specifying if you can exact brands and models of electrical receptacles, outlet covers, lights, types of switches (old-fashioned toggle or Decora-style sliders), exact flooring brand and quality and finish brand and quality, brand, color, quality and gloss level of paint, and whether it should be sprayed, brushed, or rolled, and on what. Specify window types, drawings or photos of window and door trim, for every window and door, and get exact window and door trim samples, and any base or crown moldings. You should investigate every single detail of every single item you can think of, by visiting stores and looking on-line. You or your potential contractor should buy samples of trim ahead of time. Every single detail should be written down and initialed. 5) Ask for a detailed schedule of values and payment schedule for the project, including labor and materials values, relations between those items and the payment schedule, and including the contractor's planned profit. The contractor should anyway be using the SOV to make his quote, and should be comfortable describing built-in contingency and profit percentages. These things aren't big secrets. 6) Commence the whole project, including asking for bids, by letting your candidate contractors know exactly the level of detail and nickel-and-diming that you expect. Contrary to what at least one other poster says, let the contractors know your budget for the project, but giving them the number that is 75% of the budget that you have in mind. Some of them will opt out right away. Do some homework ahead of time, searching for typical remodeling/addition costs in your area. There are books on remodeling costs, that include some total project costs, with adjustments for areas. They're not perfect, but they're a start. If you are firm about budget, and it appears that your project is strongly constrained by budget, most contractors will try to figure out how they can find efficiencies so that they can do your job, and will not be figuring out how to pad the job to spend all your money. 7) Get the documents on-line that most states have for property owners. California has great documents for homeowners, explaining how home improvement contracts must be written, what your rights are, etc. 8) Your contract should state that all changes, including details of the work, effect on payments and schedule, must be signed. California provides a good model. 9) Most contractors will hate all this, and will protest that you are making them feel untrusted, it's unprofessional, it's not how they do business, it's not how anyone has ever done business, how can you be friends, etc. etc. Ignore all that and continue to stick to the details - the contractor really doesn't want to be your friend anyway. Many if not most of the contractors will not be able to provide the quality of quote that you need, but you should be able to get at least one or two good quotes. Those quotes will be for significantly more money than they originally estimated, as there should now be fewer changes later in the project, and more of the risks of the project are now shifted to them. Additionally, under the pressure of providing a firm quote, they should have gotten firm quotes from subcontractors, rather than just making an optimistic guess. Don't ever let a contractor bully you by saying, "Don't you trust me?". The answer is always, "This isn't about trust, because of course I trust you, which is why I am hiring you as my contractor. This question (or item, or spefication) is just the way I do business (and this is a business relationship, isn't it?): by being obsessive about the details. I'm sure you can understand that." Some contractors really like to play games. Be very wary of contractors who throw in freebies - "I like you so much 'll give you a driveway for free." Well, no, it isn't free. It's either irresponsible and careless on the contractor's part, or it's an attempt to distract you from some other item. 10) As you compare quotes, make sure you are comparing apples-to-apples. If items appear in one contract but not the other, ask that they get added into the other. Make your documents part of the contract. Home improvement contracts may have plenty of legalese, but the description of exactly what work will be done and for how much money should be absolutely clear, to professionals and to non-professionals. This isn't to prepare for legal problems; it's to avoid misunderstandings. Be careful about asking a contractor to compete against a specific price from another contractor. If the contractor responds with a lower price, understand that something has changed or been taken out. 11) Go over the contract, and add more details. 11.5) Ask the contractor to specify in the contract, all the items that must be paid directly by you, NOT to the contractor. For example, the law may require that the homeowner pay some special inspection fees relating particularly to safety - for seismic, welding, or other purposes - in order to avoid any conflicts of interest. Those fees may be in the hundreds or thousands of dollars. 11.6) Get information from your city about permit costs, which may be significant. 12) Add 25% to 40% to the number that the contractor gives you, and if you've been obsessive about details, you may be in the ballpark of what the project will cost. There will be some true surprises (the pin-holes in the existing gas plumbing, the rattle-snake nest under the addition, etc.). You will also make some changes in finishes and other choices, either because you really must, or because you can, because you have a cushion. 13) Do some due diligence - reference checking, a little bit of work on the internet - to see if your contractor has the resources to do the job or has visible money or legal problems. Many projects go overbudget when the original contractor fails or disappears, and the project must be finished by someone new, always for more money. Requests for money in advance, including money for materials, are red flags. Contractors should be able to fund their work; in California, except for a small advance, contractors can't bill homeowners until work is done or materials are delivered to the site. Understand that you are taking a very large risk if you hire a contractor who doesn't work entirely legally. If things go bad - for example a worker is injured and the contractor doesn't carry workers compensation insurance - the homeowner will be the one to pay in the in end. Check licenses, insurance, and if you have an older home, EPA lead certification. Licenses and lead certification can be checked on-line. Insurance companies issue notices of coverage every day. Any reticence on the part of a contractor to provide documents should be considered a huge red flag. The risk with lead - apart from the health risk - is that if the contractor doesn't do it right, and a neighbor complains, the costs can escalate into very big numbers, very fast. All these comments about working legally are coming from my perspective, because I work legally. Your contract with someone unlicensed or uninsured may be cheaper at first, but with potentially huge financial penalties if things don't work out. Figure out your personal tolerance for the financial and legal risks. 14) If the contract amount works for you, sign the contract. During the execution of the project, continue to be involved and obsessive in all details, including adherence to payment schedules, including not paying a contractor ahead of work done, for materials not yet delivered, or ahead of the payment schedule in the contract. 15) Be fair: if you find a contractor who can work with you this carefully on costs, pay promptly and without complaint, and when the occasional surprise happens (the rattlesnake nest under the addition), accept the additional cost. Speaking as someone with experiences on both sides of this, I don't know why any homeowner would be any less than obsessive about costs and details, for a project of any size. Even if you're not strictly limited by money, I believe that being obsessive about costs and details at the beginning of the project helps elimination misunderstandings and helps set expectations. If your contractor is willing and able to be thorough and careful about the details in the sales phase, he or she will likely be the same during the execution of the work, and you have started the project correctly. Sorry for lecturing. I've seen too many projects that were started on the wrong path at the moment the contract was signed.

Thank you sky, judgirl, squirrelhaven and Patricia. Patricia, I love bolster pillows and this one is so easy to make. I am glad to show everyone how to do it. I plan on making one for my brown chair in the living room and will take step by step photos along the way. Yes squirrelhaven, we did that chair too, It's an antique, was Cliff's Grandfathers chair. We re-upholstered it -- I think two years ago, however, when I went back to my fabric guys, for drapery fabric, Cliff spotted a cream color leather hide, he loved. I am not against covering the chair again, however I have a few other things on the drawing board that I want to do first, hopefully to be completed before Thanksgiving.

Ah. My apologies for abusive engineering descriptions. Sometimes I tend to unconsciously assume that all the previous stuff here has been read and digested, so all I have to do is present a reminder. Capture: The plume expands as it rises. The actual expansion angle is greater than 10 degrees outward, but ten degrees encompasses most of the higher velocity components for relevant cases. This means that the cone is wider the higher one measures above the pan base. At 36 inches hood height, for example, with a tangent of 10 degrees equal to 0.176, the plume has expanded outward by 36 inches times 0.176 or 6.4 inches. Similarly, for 30 inches, the plume has expanded by 30 times 0.176 = 5.3 inches. (Exactness is used here to clarify the calculation, not assert a defined boundary exists at the plume.) Suppose a pan base's maximum extent from the wall was 19 inches (which would be true of my induction cooktop if it were against a wall). Then one should aim for a hood aperture that was 19 + 6.375 = ~ 25 inches from the wall if 36 inches up. A 27-inch hood with lights in front of the aperture is close enough. Hence, your drawings have the angle going the wrong way. Imagine a really large traffic cone (without it weighted base). Slice it where it is the same diameter as the pan base and invert it over the pan. This inverted, truncated traffic cone, or rather a set of them perched on all the burners or hobs, can be imagined as defining the required boundary of the hood aperture. The desired hood aperture for good capture is independent of whether the structure of the hood is all metal or is metal inside of wood. Depending on your configuration, it may be best to space a smaller hood outwards and fill the gap at the wall side with some sheet metal. Side cabinets can help perform the function of side curtains in commercial configurations. (Note re pillog's comment. There is a small zone of high flow rate at the edges of the hood, and this has the effect of a slight increase in effective aperture.) Containment: Your analysis is correct. If the aperture is 6 sq. ft., then the desirable actual flow rate at full power is 90 x 6 = 540 cubic ft./min. Now where did I pull the magic number 90 from. Briefly, there are studies that have been published of plume velocities as a function of surface temperature, with induction and with gas. The gas cooking velocity (because the gas combustion products are entrained in the plume) causes more than a meter per second of plume rising velocity. The velocity with induction is typically less than a m/s. At the pan, the hood has NO effect on the velocity, and this essentially holds until the plume is close to the hood aperture. Another way to put it is that the hood captures the plume due to the plume's upward momentum (mass times velocity), which will not change until accelerated or decelerated by some force. When the plume reaches the baffles, it can intercept a gap and pass into the baffle space, or it can hit a metal part and potentially reflect. To keep the reflection in check, the air flow velocity of the hood has to be enough to change the reflection momentum to near zero and let the plume part be pulled into the baffles. When the air velocity is 90 ft/min average across the baffle space, it is about twice that at the baffle gaps, and this velocity is equal to that of the plume velocity. Also, I have observed this level working for the plume over my induction wok, and Greenheck suggests 85 ft/min for similar cooking (Figure 4, page 9 of the previous reference). So think of 90 ft/min as a suggestion that I don't think will prove to be too low. Too low of a hood velocity (CFM/sq. ft.), hence too low of a hood flow rate (below). Enough velocity (below) Blower specification: Yes, the factor of 1.5 is used to make up for the fact that blowers are specified by themselves (usually) hanging in free air, and what you have is a restrictive system that has to deal with baffle restriction, duct, and make-up air pressure losses. The relationship is given by the so-called "fan curve." For example, the Broan blower fan curve immediately below is just about done at well under an inch of water column pressure. Your requirements, depending particularly on baffles and MUA, may require a more "powerful" (higher nominal CFM) blower, as in the second figure. If the only loss were baffles, then the first figure would be barely good enough, because the baffles might have a pressure loss of about one or two tenths of an inch, w.c., at 90 CFM/sq. ft., depending on their aerodynamics. Throw in ducting and pressure losses in the MUA system (a whole giant topic of its own), and the tenths of inches build up leading variously to a need for one of the higher nominal flow rate models.Ekes out 540 CFM at a very low pressure drop (above) A blower with the 1.5 factor achieved (above). Keep in mind 1.5 is only a guess. A blower that would make up for many installation crimes (above), but which drives an unnecessarily more expensive MUA system to keep house pressure up. kas