A bath like you just described, with questionable framing and insulation, should really be targeted for gutting so that all of the other hidden issues, besides the mold, can be addressed. Unfortunately, there are sure to be other issues, possibly structural in nature. Porch enclosures are rarely done in a top notch manner, as you can already see for yourself. Costs to pay a pro to do a bandaid can approach that of the gut, but without solving the real culprits of the problems. What is your experience level for DIY projects? A $50 box store acrylic surround placed over the existing walls with a new valve and insulation could be a stopgap for a couple of months until you could plan the gut. But paying a contractor for the temp ''repair'' would take away funding from the needed gut. That IS something that someone with low to medium DIY experience could do at minimal cost as a temp measure.

Hopefully you have PVC or some similar plastic pipe. The proper thing to do is to pull the vanity, open the wall, raise the pipe, reinstall the vanity. The picture you've drawn begins to look like an S trap. These are not code compliant since they can lead to emptying the trap by siphoning.

I do think the Allen wrench is metric, since the diverter was made in Germany, and I will look into getting some metric Allen wrenches, if we do not have any at our house in Los Angeles. I will take what we have here to see if any will work, but it would have been convenient if the contractor had left the Allen wrench that came with the fixture. I do have the instructions, such as they are, and they have essentially no text with them - only illustrations, and so it is better to go to Youtube for information on the adjustment. I'm sure it is simple and something that I can do myself, once I have the correct wrench. The contractor called me today and said that the glass doors in the master bathroom are already installed, but he thinks there is an issue with the hinge at the bottom because it makes noise and the door is more difficult to open inward than outward. The glass company installed the doors - the contractor never intended to do this himself, and while he sounded a bit weak on the phone, he said he was feeling well enough to oversee what is being done. Unfortunately, the glass door installers damaged a tile in the hall bathroom, and so now that has to be replaced, which will happen tomorrow. The glass company will pay for this to be done of course, but the door should be reinstalled this week. Anyway, I will go on Friday to see what is being done regardless. We have lots of extra tiles, and so that is not an issue, but the contractor told me that the bottom hinge on the second glass door also appeared to have an issue. I let him know that I would not accept hinges that are not proper, as I do not want to have issues later on. I also told him that I am in no hurry to get this completed, but he is because I will not give him his final payment until the work is completed to my satisfaction. There is no need now to get a shower curtain.

I agree with others who pointed out your bath pictures show clean, neutral, and functional already. And that it's a great idea to live in the space a little while before investing in any changes. A coat of paint, a new faucet, and a new light will - seriously - work wonders. But you also asked some specific questions, so here goes. :-) 1. For software, personally I liked Homestyler for a while, but then they rebranded it as Planner 5D and started upcharging for just about everything. Then later, a different company started hosting a different Homestyler that I like a lot. But keep in mind, these are free (unless you opt to shell out for the upgraded tools), so be careful how much info you share. If you want to go high tech, Sketchup is a fantastic 3D drawing tool, with lots of plugins for furniture and fixtures... but the learning curve is STEEP. You're smart to invest in tools carefully... but you may not need anything carpentry-related for your baths just yet. Miter saws are great if you have a ton of crown to install, but I don't expect you'll be building your own cabs or doors, right? DH and I bought a hand-held circular saw 20 years ago, and it's still our main saw. There are ways to set up portable workspaces on sawhorses, and use a straightedge with clamps to get clean, straight cuts. But if you have real cutting to do and space for storage, a table saw is great. Don't overlook the value of a great cordless drill, high quality bits, good wrenches, and 2 measuring tapes in good condition. Hardware and lights... the internet is flooded. But there's a fun way to find new sources. Find something you like on Amazon or Lowes, then google that item and see what other stores pop up. They may be design centers, hardware stores, specialty shops, or other major retailers you just never knew of. Bathroom fans are frustrating to buy. The ones that work best look the worst. Go for specs, not looks, and make sure there are nicer things in your bathrooms to look at. 5a. I would not paint or resurface a bathroom counter. But if they're really that bad, you can buy inexpensive pre-formed counters at HD/Lowes for very cheap. You should look at Ikea too, but their sizes often don't work with preexisting cabinets. Another option (but probably isn't worth it) - small counters are easy to replace with a stone remnant from a stone yard. It will still cost something - more than HD/Lowes. But if the full bath redo is years away, this is a nice upgrade. 5b. From your pics, your floors look like they're in good shape and clean, but I couldn't see much of the floor... I will say - if the tile is original, removing it will be a nightmare. You will need a hammer drill, heavy wire cutters, strong backs, and a chiropractor. Tile setters in the 60s took their work very seriously - there is probably 2" of mortar under that tile, with some crazy chicken wire type stuff embedded in it. A hammer and chisel is not going to cut it. We pulled the tile out of our powder room a couple years ago - our house was built in 1989 and clearly, the tile setter was old-school. They didn't mess around. We put down 1000 feet of peel & stick wood look plank in our basement 5 years ago. I actually love it. It was cheap stuff from Lowes, and it looks like we paid much more. BUT. The concrete floor was very flat and smooth, and already sealed. We applied a primer, and that makes all the difference with adhesive floors. We do have a couple areas that have been exposed to water (washer leak and a Bilco door leak), but those were isolated events... I'm not sure P&S is a great idea in a bathroom. But it could be a reasonable solution for a short term replacement of the tile. Note - if you pull up the tile, and put down a skinny layer of P&S - you may have work to do to replace the toilet. The bolts may not fit properly, the wax seal may not seat the same. Questions you didn't ask, but I'll offer some thoughts anyway :-) If you're thinking to replace doors with Shaker style, there are some great companies who sell custom doors for reasonable prices. The kitchen forum is the place to look for the current favorites. And I know the beige fixtures are not so popular, but don't try painting them. The yellow I see in your pics will not work well with that dingy beige I'm imagining. But there are other nice colors that will complement the beige and make it tolerable - Maria Killam is a good source to explore colors and see if you can make that beige work in the short term. Congratulations on your first home! Have fun decorating!