Does the mirror fog up in the bathroom when someone showers? If so, your exhaust fan isn't moving a sufficient volume of air. You might want to look for an exhaust fan that has a higher capacity. Many bathrooms are equipped with exhaust fans known in the building trade as "fart fans". Noisy and cheap little devils that aren't worth switching on. They suffice to satisfy the building inspectors, but they're just not very effective at exhausting steam and moisture. In addition to an adequately-sized exhaust fan, you might want to invest in a timer switch so that you can leave the fan running for about 20 minutes or so, after your shower is finished and you've left the bathroom. It takes a while for damp and steam to be completely exhausted. I'm in in the Pacific Northwest, too. I use Fantech remote exhaust fans with timer switches in all of my bathrooms. They're absolutely silent and totally effective. I never have fogged up mirrors or any lingering damp. Many people posting here also recommend Panasonic Whisper Quiet exhaust fans, but I prefer remote fans for their silent operation. Here is a link that might be useful: Fantech Bathroom Ventilation

Can you post some pictures? The kitchen forum's Picture Posting How To can tell you how if you haven't done it before. Pictures of problem areas, especially the sink could really go a long way to getting some suggestions on how to address the problems. I am not an expert in any field of construction, but I can give you a little information from my own DIY experience. As yayagal already stated, research is key to DIY. Knowing how to do work the right way is key. I suggest reading books (library), searching online, searching this forum, YouTube videos, etc can be great resources for DIY information. Personally, I think it's critical you identify the source(s) of the smell and leaking water, the original cause, and any damage. Once you've identified the problem and the damage, you can construct a plan to move forward. Water can be a MAJOR source of damage and deferring maintenance and/or cleanup may end up costing more in the long run, including serious health problems or structural damage. From your description, it sounds like you've already determined that there is at least one or multiple problems with water in the bathroom. First and foremost identify the source of the water. Leaking toilet? Leaking shower pan? Leaking fresh water or waste water pipes? If you prefer to avoid demolition as much a possible, I would recommend isolating each potential culprit and testing. Use scientific method. Check each variable individually by discontinuing use (and turning off water sources) and testing each component individually. You may need to allow sufficient time between tests in order to allow materials to dry out enough to identify sources. For example, a year and a half ago I discovered wet subfloor in my laundry room. After following the moisture and individually testing potential sources, I discovered my main waste pipe (eww) in the wall of my laundry room was leaking. Without thoroughly exploring the problem and working towards a complete fix, more damage and even a potentially dangerous situation could have occurred. Because I was proactive about finding the cause, identifying and fixing the cause and the damage, I was able to remove only non-structural materials, eradicate mold and mildew, and create a much more functional, beautiful, fresh smelling laundry room. I enlisted some professional help for cleanup of some of the water damage for peace of mind. I removed most of the water damaged material myself (particle board subfloor, sheetrock) and dried out the area using fans to circulate the air and heat (space heater, cranked my furnace). The professionals removed some additional material under the framing and sprayed the area with chemicals to kill any mold and mildew. There was very minor mold so the danger to myself was low. However, I used a very heavy duty mask with interchangeable cartidges (not simply a dust mask) and covered my skin and eyes thoroughly, closed off the space from the rest of the house, and opened windows for ventilation. You should also check laws and regulations for your area to find out if there are any legal requirements for cleanup. I also want to address a few specific points in your original post. "Grout is barely there on the floor, so any water on the floor leaks to the basement." Most bathroom floors are not designed to be waterproof. Why would they? Water should be contained to wet areas: in the toilet, in the tub, in the shower, in the sink. Why is there water on your floor? If enough water has been on or under your floors, you may have damage underneath the tile (subfloor, joists, etc). If not, floors can be fairly easily re-grouted. You need to remove all of the remaining grout and then apply new grout. The removal of the old grout may be labor intensive, but application of new grout is fairly easy. "Vanity is rotting." Why is the vanity rotting? Is water getting around or under the vanity? If so, this problem needs to be addressed first. Or do you have termites or dry rot? Or simply a poorly constructed vanity that is falling apart from age? "Toilet always smells, no matter what I clean it with." This does not sound like a cleaning issue. As others speculated, perhaps your toilet is leaking? Or perhaps there is an issue with venting? I'm not an expert on plumbing (especially plumbing ventilation) but sewer gases can escape from improper plumbing and cause smells. Again, the source needs to be identified. "Grout in shower is barely there, so water leaks." Is this a shower only or tub and shower? Do you know anything about the construction? Where is the water coming through? Grout is not and never will be water proof. It is expected that water and/or moisture will get behind tile in bath/shower combos and showers. Shower pans should be constructed to provide sufficient water proofing prior to tile installation. There are numerous correct methods and there are some methods that have been used that are incorrect and will allow water to escape. Shower walls should either have water proofing (products such as Kerdi, RedGuard, etc) directly under the tile or vapor barriers (plastic, tar paper, etc) behind materials not susceptible to water (such as mortar or cement board). And no, green board does not count. "Replace toilet. How difficult is this?" Replacing a toilet isn't terribly difficult, assuming the current installation doesn't have serious problems. Essentially, you need to safely remove the toilet including shutting the water off completely, draining the water in the toilet, and unfastening it. Re-installation should include proper seating of the toilet (new wax ring) to waste pipe, bolting down (not too tight - don't crack the toilet), reconnecting and turning on the water. If any of the plumbing, subfloor, etc have stability problems or leaks, the problem can get more complex because you need to fix those issues prior to new toilet installation.

This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

What you need to find out is if the contractor is specifying Greenboard and calling it mold-resistant by mistake or is specifying mold-resistant gypsum board and calling it Greenboard by mistake. For gypsum board to be mold-resistant it must have a facing that mold cannot feed upon. The facing of Greenboard provides some additional resistance to water penetration but so does paint on regular board. The original intent of Greenboard was to limit water penetration behind tile in showers but because it eventually fails in that situation, there is no longer a practical use for it. Types of mold-resistant drywall: 1) no facing (USG Fiberock Aqua-Tough, etc.) 2) fiberglass mat facing (Georgia-Pacific DensArmor, etc.) 3) treated paper facing - (Georgia-Pacific ToughRock, Certainteed M2Tech, etc.) Another approach to mold reduction in a bathroom is to limit the sources of moisture. If a bathroom is above grade an exhaust fan is usually all that is needed. If on a slab-on-grade or in a very humid climate, mold-resistant gypsum board might be needed.