We use Fresh Start Acrylic primer on all our wood windows and we do thousands per year. We also use Impervo on some, Pro Classic on others, and Muralo Satin Flow on most.

You must sand with #220 grit paper after the primer has dried. The primer will raise the grain on bare wood. After you sand, it will be ready for two finish coats of Impervo.

Since you're painting and not staining, you man want to try this method. Use a wet sponge and wipe down the wood. Let it air dry overnight. That will also raise the grain for sanding. That way you have your sanding out of the way before priming.

What wood species is the window built with?

Michael

P.S Alkyd primer also raises the grain, just not as much but still requires sanding.

Michael: Thanks for your comments. The windows are hemlock/fir (could be either) Your painting tips will be very helpful. Thank you..

I have just found out from my Benjamin Moore Dealer, in Canada, that the Satin Impervo that I have been using is not a waterborne product. It is alkyld, which makes sense as it is not a water cleanup. Canadian BM stores do not carry the waterborne Impervo that you are talking about. I also contacted Muralo, they do not supply product to Canada. I am still waiting on a reply regarding Cabinet Coat. Do you know of any other waterborne products that you would recommend. I see Sherwin Williams has something. Comments?

SW has Pro Classic. It's a product I recommend on windows if you can get that. Make sure you buy a brush for it and spend at least $20 or more. A 2 inch sash brush works best for most windows. You may also need a 1 1/2 flat brush for the face of the frames.

Is there a Pratt & Lambert store near you? They have an excellent primer/topcoat system that works well on windows.

Michael

ycmom,

I posted a comment on your other (overwhelmed) thread. If you are using an alkyd top coat (thinned with mineral spirits), in addition to a good brush, I also suggest you get a racheted paint brush twirler, to use in clean up. These are shockingly expensive (about $40, US) but really make it easier to get the last vestiges of solvent off, prolonging the usable life of your brush, and making clean-up easier. I have a 5 gallon sheet rock mud container (now empty) with two lids. One has 3" round hole in the center of the lid for use during brush twirling activity (to contain the spun-out paint/thinner residue), and the other is an intact, tight closing one, to put a lid on the messiness inside the twirling bucket between spins.

Another suggestion I wanted to make was to have two copies of each of your good brushes. When you're starting out learning to paint, especially with alkyd, I find most people overload the brush somewhat, which gradually builds up a into a really messy brush and handle. It takes a bit of experience to learn exactly how much paint to use. In the meantime, you'll have fewer interuptions for brush tidying during your painting time if you have a spare to bring into pinch hit when the first one gets messy. JUst hang the first brush in some solvent to wait for final clean-up and do both at once.

And of course, remember that all cleaning rags and paper towels wet with mineral spirits can spontaneously combust if just dumped in the trash. I store mine under water until I have time to line dry them outside. (This is probably not good for outdoor air quality, but my house burning down is worse, over all.)

BTW, "racheted paint brush twirler" is not the really name of this useful tool, but it's the best I can do at this hour of the night, and if you ask for it at a real paint store, or even perhaps HD or Lowes, they'll know what you mean. It's also the nuts for thoroughly cleaning roller covers, too. And good rollers covers ain't cheap!

HTH,

Molly~

ycmom,

The P&L primer is Suprime Latex Undercoater. It's easy to sand (use #220 grit aluminum oxide)and makes for a very nice underbody.

Be sure to caulk any visible cracks, nooks and crannies at wood joints after you prime. Wipe the joint clean with a soft, damp cloth and let it dry before painting. If you don't caulk those joints, the windows will have unsightly gaps that are very noticeable after the paint is dry.

Topcoat of P&L paint using the Red Seal satin enamel.

Michael

Michael/Brushworks: Thanks again for all the info. I really like the way the Oil based Satin Impervo looks, and although the SW Pro Classic Gloss doesn't have the sheen or leveling out that the oil does, it certainly dries faster. That is a huge bonus. I am going to purchase a quart of the P&L Red Seal Satin Enamel tomorrow to sample. I will hopefully choose one or the other as the paint for all the trim in our home. Can I use BM Fresh Start under both of those products and would you recommend using Fresh Start on bare wood, or is P&L Suprime Latex Undercoater preferable to use under the Red Seal. Thanks again Michael for the invaluable info...

housekeeping/Molly: Thanks for both of your responses. I am going to try going with a water based product but the info on the 'paint brush twirler' is good. Also, thanks for the heads up on the storage of rags, that is really good advice.

Rhonda

I'm sorry, you have already answered the question about using Fresh Start on wood, in a previous thread. Obviously, you use this under products other than BM.

Rhonda

Just an update on my paint search. Although we have Pratt and Lambert, they do not carry Red Seal Enamel. Apparently it is unavailable in our city. When I asked the reason, I was told it was complicated and political, whatever that means. I tried SW ProClassic, Pittsburg PittTech Waterborne Industrial Satin Enamel, BM Latex Satin Enamel and Manor Hall Latex Pearl. My favorite is the SW product. Anyways, thanks for all the advice.