Again, saying the "level" thing is no big deal other than nominal. From your post, you've clearly paid careful attention to that. You may safely remove it from your worries at this point. Your bearings are fine and will remain fine....unless you beat them to death....and probably even then. You don't need to get to the rear legs. A plane is defined by three points. Adjust the fourth -- one of the front legs -- to compliment/coincide -- is all that's left. The "foam trick" may well help. May even save the situation if nothing else works. On the other hand, you've got a a good, expensive, well-designed machine in place there. A machine that may not have been properly installed. A machine that may not be able to perform as it was designed because it's components may not be able bear as they were designed to do. Inasmuch as determining that takes a matter of minutes and very little skill, I would certainly start there. If that doesn't work in your stacked situation on your suspended floor, then I guess you'll have to do something else. Only saying unless this much is done first, neither you nor anyone else will know what you're actually dealing with. If you've done everything possible to allow the machine's suspension to do everything it's capable of doing -- which is a lot, by the way -- and it STILL is not satisfactory then that's where other considerations should begin. Stacking adds potential issues. Suspended flooring adds potential issues. Just suggesting one step at a time. Would be interested in learning your outcome if you would be so kind as to return and report.

wow! "asolo" "I don't care. I don't have to." nice, friendly & helpful. Anyway barring the rudeness of some members, We live in home with a sub floor and The anti vibration pads from Lowe's & home depot helped a little but not much I even tried the infamous "tweek one of the front feet" method to no avail. I could get it somewhat better with a combination of all of the above but if you have sub wood flooring chances are you just don't have the support built in. I ran across these and tried them as a last ditch effort. "Anti-walk Silent Feet - Anti-vibration Pads for Washing Machines and Dryers" they are $40 plus shipping from Amazon. I have to say I was HIGHLY skeptical after trying two other types but after I installed them they reduced the vibration and shaking of the machine by 95%!! I know they sound to good to be true but most of the time if I'm in the other room I do not even know that my washer is even going through a spin cycle! before the washer would rattle and shake the whole flooring! you could feel the washer anywhere in the house through the vibration in the floor. There a little strange to look at, very small not like the HUGE rubber thing I got through Home Depot. Bottom line they work and work VERY WELL! Try them out you won't be sorry. Here is a link that might be useful: Anti-walk Silent Feet

a long winded description follows. Here is a summary: We have both low frequency (20 to 33 cycles per second ) and high frequency (50 to 60 cycles per second) vibrations. The mats cut down the higher frequencies (although they still let enough through to create noise) , but do nothing to block the lower frequency vibrations. The loudness of the noise is created by the rubber mat underneath my hvac unit which is covering the entire surface area of the bottom of the HVAC unit and the floor below - thus amplifying the vibration. The insulation we put in the walls and the ceiling below is working - but it is cutting down the acoustic noise (noise created by compressing air) - but batt or blown insulation does nothing to block or dampen noise caused by structure vibration. The problem can be solved by removing the rubber mats and replacing them with 4 vibration isolators - which are essentailly leg supports with springs - under the 4 corners of the unit. There was a recommendation to suspend the HVAC unit from above. This could be done but is probably not necessary. I will keep you posted on the progress. *************************detail In my quest to understand the physics of what is happening with the my hvac vibration on the second floor of my home under construction, I stumbled data sheet that has some interesting info in it. See http://www.b-line.com/product/PDFLibrary/pipehangers/index.htm. Click on Vibra-Trol and then the Introduction. Download the PDF data sheet. The table on the second page shows the amount of vibration reduction as a function of the deflection of the vibration cancellation device used. If you look at the left most column in the table - the 1/16th inch deflection corresponds to what you get with a rubber mat or neoprene pad. The N/R means not recommended. The HVAC unit we have on the second floor operates in the 1200 to 2000 RPM range (or 20 to 33 cycles per second). If you look at the table you can see that the vibration reduction by a mat/pad in that RPM range is not very good. The Econar units also have a Compliant Scroll compressor. I checked their specs and the unit runs in the 50 to 60 cycles per second range (or 3000 to 3600 RPM). You can see in the table that mats or pads are OK for these higher RPM rates - but not the best. They would still allow 10 to 12% of the vibration through the mats at these higher frequnecies. You also have to consider harmonics - which are additional frequencies generated at +/- 1/2, 1/3,1/4, 1/5 etc of the center frequency of the compressor. If the amplitude of the vibration of the center frequency is high, harmonics at lower frequencies will also be high. That means the harmonics at lower frequencies can also pass through the rubber mats. If you look on the right hand side of the table - you can see what the noise reduction is for spring mounts (you can see an example of one of these on the cover of the attachment - left hand side of the picture with yellow spring and bolt sticking up). A spring device with a 1" deflection provides 97 to 99 percent reduction in vibration for the lower RPM ranges of the fan, the higher RPM range for the compressor, and the harmonics at low frequency created by the compressor. At the bottom of the data sheet - they provide a calculation on how to size the springs based on the weight of the equipment. The corner load is 1.25 times the unit load divided by 4. The spring mounts are not terribly expensive, maybe 10 to 20 dollars each. The springs themselves (depending on the brand) are about 3.5 to 4.5 inches tall with no load, and about 2.5 to 3.5 inches tall when compressed with a load - assuming a 1 inch deflection - which should be adequate for our problem.

SO SORRY you are having laundry issues. TRUST ME...I know exactly what you are going through! The dryer not reversing is my BIGGEST pet peeve. It is one of the MAIN reasons I returned to Miele (that and the robust build materials Miele uses are amazing!). The Electrolux IQ dryer and the Whirpool Duet dryers DO NOT HAVE REVERSE TUMBLE!!! So, if this is an issue for you, switching to Electrloux or Whirpool will be NO improvment. The Electrolux Wave Touch does have "Perfect Tumble", but it only does reverse tumble the last 9 minutes or so during the load. And you must remember to scroll thru the option list, and activate Perfect Tumble. My Wave Touch dryer actually left clothes really fluffy, soft and virtually wrinkle free, BUT...towels and sheets ended up in a big ball. Since the Perfect Tumble only activates the last few minutes of the cycle, the sheets and towels go in one direction for 40+ minutes. By that time, everything is in a big ball. Yuck!! I have never seen a Whirpool Duet washer in action, but I can tell you that the Electrolux is VERY quiet and smooth....even during the MAX 1350 RPM spin cycle. The Electrolux is probably the quietest wash machine I have ever seen/used/had! The push to open/close doors on the Electrolux models are a nice feature, but within a week or 2, it already began to stick on my machine! Also, I like to leave the washer door ajar when the machine is not in use (to allow air movement, and to prevent mold and mildew)...the Electrolux does not allow this. Since the door is spring loaded for the push to open/close design, the door is either open or closed. This was VERY annoying, since our laundry room is not small, but not large either. We were constantly dealing with the damned door being in the way. We "solved" the problem by using a bungee cord...but it looked like hell, and really bugged me seeing a bungee cord holding the door open to a $1600 washing machine. BE CAREFUL...Sears is NOT good or easy with trades/returns. We are in the middle of a big issue/fight with Sears and the Legal Dept. at American Express. AMEX is being great, but Sears is trying to charge us a 15% restock fee (About $600 in our case). The way Sears treated me, and the way they spoke to me...I will NEVER deal with Sears again. Never. Sad, since I always liked Sears! So if you plan on returning the items to Sears, I hope you used a good Credit Card, that will allow you to contest and fight the get the 15% re-stock fee removed. I now hate Sears. Horrible Customer Service! I know a few Fisher and Paykel dryers have reverse tumble dryers as does the GE Profile (the one with that ugly, tear shaped door). The materials used on the GE Profile are hideous. Cheap, plastic and thin. I think you might need to look at Miele. TRUST ME though...get an Electric Dryer. Miele gas dryers are not very good!!! Good Luck, and Let us know. :)