What are the following dimensions for A, B, C, D, E, F, G, and H? How would you feel about consolidating the windows on one end or the other or in the middle? I was thinking you could put them on the seating end so you have a great view while eating...whether in the DR or Kitchen. Or, maybe have one big window in the Kitchen... A coffee center (or beverage center) is a planned/designated location for a coffee machine that usually includes a nearby water source (for the coffeemaker if it's not plumbed directly) and the various items used for coffee (mugs, sugar, coffee, filters, etc.) Often there's also a small beverage refrigerator. It's usually on the periphery so someone getting coffee or another beverage or snack doesn't get in the way of those working in the kitchen. It's also usually located near everyday seating. Is there any way to fiddle w/that DR? Is there a reason the DR just sort of "hangs" there in the plans? It doesn't really seem to be located in a functional location b/c it's supposed to be formal but is in the middle of the house w/no walls, etc.. It's in the way of accessing both the LR & FR from the kitchen and seems to be more of an informal kitchen table space. (...It was intended that one space would be formal, the other informal...) It just seems very awkward. Was the DR originally located where the Chapel is? That would explain the awkwardness...moving it elsewhere in a "make do" location. Can you expand the plans at all to try and create a true DR?

I have Electrolux which I was told by 4 different sales people in 4 different small independent appliance stores were the best (with the exception of the Speed Queen which is a commercial front loader and almost double the price). I live in CT about an hour outside of NYC, so I have access to all brands. I have used powdered detergent, but it doesn't seem to matter, I still need to leave the detergent dispenser open, and with that the fabric softener gets gunky. Water runs through the dispenser to flush out whatever kind of detergent you use and the dispenser gets moldy with no air circulation to dry things out. The detergent dispenser itself comes out for cleaning, but once you take it out the sleeve or interior gets moldy as well. It's difficult to clean as you need to put your arm in and just do the best you can. One salesperson suggested I use a hairdryer to dry out the dispenser after each load. Can you imagine. With my kitchen renovation, I am also going to redo my laundry room and am going back to the top loading Speed Queen. These machines are like the Maytags of 20 years ago before they were bought out by Whirlpool. I am actually going to change my cabinetry in order to do so. The maintenance to keep these front loaders clean actually takes as much time as the laundry and I'm done with it. If you do go ahead, I suggest getting the extended warranty, with purchase and continue after that runs out. Mine has come in quite handy in the last 5 years. It's paid for itself in the repairs needed. Have you thought about going with top loaders and putting them behind doors with storage above. Something like this, but with top loading machines. https://www.decoist.com/laundry-room-hidden-appliances-storage/washer-and-dryer-hidden-in-closet-with-beautiful-dark-wooden-doors/ BTW, I live on a cul-de-sac with 8 houses. Five of us have gotten front loaders in the last 6 years. Four of us have gotten rid of them and I'm only waiting until my remodel gets underway.

In terms of overall length, I have from left to right: 48" Freezer(18")/Fridge(30") 3/4 inch side cover panel 120" counter top, therein 36" induction cook top 3/4 inch side cover panel 30" wall ovens 48" pantry (2x24" high cabinets) 2" cover panel to the wall = 249.5" Total I've been going back and forth on the hood. It's probably the most discussed item. Originally we planned to get a custom hood liner built for an insert hood, but now we are leaning towards this very basic BOSCH pull out hood. Minimum mounting clearance over cooktop is 25 3/5". There is no maximum clearance given in the spec sheets. It should come in right around 30-32" clearance (math: 84" tall cab (incl. toe kick) - 36" base cabinets - 15" wall cab to mount the hood to - 2" for the hood hardware = 31"), which is very average as far as I can tell. I was planning to build a custom open cabinet left and right of the hood cabinet which will probably be around 16-17" high to seamlessly integrate the pull-out. See inspiration below.

first off, there is no such thing as a combo of marble and quartzite. I was schooled on this issue last year by a geologist that pops in every now and then. It's either a marble, or a quartzite. no in-between. ( since marble and quartzite are two very differently formed minerals) If it etches or stains at all, or it scratches w/a shard of glass, it's not quartzite. (quartzite will turn a glass shard into powder) marble is a 3 on the mohs scale, and quartzite is up in the 8 range. Completely different compositions. glass is harder than marble, but softer than granite/quartzite. this is prob the easiest test to do w/a scrap piece of whatever stone you're considering secondly, stone salesmen aren't geologists. You'd think they'd have basic knowledge of what they're selling, but sadly it's not the case. If they are telling you Fantasy Brown is a granite, they're clueless. (or more likely they know people don't want marble so they tell you it's 'granite' so that you'll buy it) Fantasy Brown is classified as Dolomite, (like Super White, that they all confuse as a Quartzite) which is marble's first cousin. Dolomite is a bit heartier than a marble like carrara. It takes a little longer for etching or staining to occur, which is prob why sellers think it's a granite. It's 'slightly' harder than calcite(marble)., but it will still scratch like marble. However, it's porous and will need to be sealed. You will have a bit longer to wipe up spills that stain, then those on marble. Geologically speaking: Dolomite is a sedimentary rock containing more than 50 percent of the mineral dolomite by weight Marble is a non-foliated metamorphic rock which is composed of recrystallized carbonate which is formed when limestone is exposed to high temperatures and pressures over a long time I believe there is a test you can do to verify if it's marble or dolomite. stones the 'bubble vigorously' or release carbon dioxide gas, are marble (since it reacts w/the calcite) . With dolomite, you won't get that bubbling gas release like it does on marble (unless it's heated or the stone is powdered) Dolomite effervesces with dilute hydrochloric acid, but slowly rather than vigorously as calcite does; in general, it appears to smolder slowly, and in some cases it does so only after the rock has been powdered or the acid warmed, or both. since this hydrochloric acid is highly dangerous, perhaps using vinegar to test on sample stones would be safer! Vinegar is a dilute acetic acid solution (about 5% to 10%) that produces a weak effervescent reaction with calcite and dolomite. It can be used instead of hydrochloric acid for introducing students to the acid test. Vinegar is easy to obtain, inexpensive, and safer to use than hydrochloric acid. The effervescence using vinegar usually requires a hand lens for clear observation and is only observable with carbonate minerals that have a strong reaction with hydrochloric acid. This is a sample marble piece at one of my stone yards. the guy used vinegar, ketchup, oil, lemon juice, and something else. They all etched or stained almost immediately. With fantasy brown, it won't happen as quickly. and that's the main diff between dolomite and marble. So, there is your geology lesson for the day. you can inform the sales guy to quit marketing his Fantasy Brown as a granite, and tell people the truth that it's Dolomite.