How long do you plan on staying in the house?

im looking at installing a counter over my W/D because im Tired of things falling behind and in the side. If you do just a counter with no cabine, it won’t be a huge deal to raise it in the future if you change w/d brand. I’d do a least 1” higher than the w/d, but keep in mind there has to be bracing to support the counter that the w/d must fit under

Thanks for the comments. The pictures represent what I am trying to do. I would Iike them inside cabinets with the doors sliding into pocket doors and a fixed counter on top. This is a built-in in my kitchen, (I know, not everyone’s idea, but it’s the only place I can put it.) thanks!

Make the countertops removable and put them where you want to look best. Not a big deal.

IMO you need to bea able to access the water at the back and that says to me that you need to be able to get at that very quickly in a flood situation so that would make Joseph’s idea the best .The picture you show is very pretty but no so pretty by the time you wiggle the washer out to get at the water

My alcove is 38” deep for the w/d. The uppers will be 24” deep. on the gap between the upper and lower, there will be a false back, 12” from the wall. This will make it look like normal upper and lower cabs. The false back has flip down panels to access the W/D controls. My GC will put recessed niches in back, for those controls and also for the hoses and dryer duct, if needed. He’s working on the design today.

The counter will be quartz. Even if it were a movable material, if I needed to raise it an inch in the future, there would be a gap between it and the top of the cabinet.

hence my q: what is a good standard height for w/d. Mine is 38 5/8. some are 39 3/4.

thanks for your help.

If these are the the standard Euro compact machines that are used in kitchens all over Europe, those fit under the standard 36”H and 24” deep kitchen counters. They're designed to work with cabinet surrounds. Pocket doors to try to conceal further will swallow an enormous amount of usable room though, and limit access. The Asko models allow “panels” on them like a paneled DW, which is a much better “concealment” solution.

If those are the full height American style units, people generally mount those on top of their matching pedestals, within a large extra deep pantry surround, so it won’t be so hard on their backs. That ergonomic placement is more valuable than a counter on top of an already existing folding area on top of the machines. That’s a standard 54” AFF for that. Thats too high for a useful counter.

If that’s the full height American style units sitting flat on the floor, then pick another option. That’s the worst of all usable options, with the most expensive and cumbersome options to try to conceal them. Concealment is useless with an elephant in the kitchen. There’s no way that you don’t notice that it’s an elephant. .

live_wire_oak they would be full height american ones. Do most people mount them on pedestals? Offhand, I know 4 people with these front loaders and only one has them on pedestals. I also have an ideabook on washer-dryers and there are many stored under a counter (some euro sized, some american) and I don't think any are on pedestals. hmmm....am I being fooled by inspo pics or ? FWIW, I had considered stacking the W/D in a cabinet (a lot of people do that) but I'm short and it would be hard to me to reach the dryer controllers and to get every last thing out of the dryer.

Here's the drawing we have so far, to make it match the rest of the cabinets. We'd create a built-in for an existing 38" deep alcove. So they won't protrude into the room. (we aren't going to have the arched detail, due to the flip down). The bottom has two doors that are pocket doors. Each face looks like it's two doors to match the top. There will be a pullout between the W/D for detergent, etc. (hence the extra width, beyond what's needed for the pocket doors). I like the look of the built-in and to my mind, the long counter top is handy, even when I'm not folding laundry. It may become a short-term drop zone; I may use it as a phone/iPad charging area; handy to have another counter area when guests come over, etc.

following

Hi everyone, any additional thoughts now that you’ve seen the design for the built in (it won’t protrude into the room) and the reason for having a counter? I have a 1940 bungalow and the idea is to make it look like built-in cabinets. Thanks for your help.

If you plan for 40.5” clearance, it will be comfortable height for your model w/d and just enough clearance should you go with a taller model in the future.

@richfield95, thanks. That’s helpful.

Good Luck - I'm turning in my front loaders and going back to the top loaders. Mold is a real issue unless the door to the washing machine is open when not in use. The detergent dispenser also has to be left open. It's unsightly and I have a laundry room. I'm so tired of all the maintenance with these machines.

@Design Girl, wow. Is this really such an ongoing issue? I thought I needed to leave the door open to let it dry (maybe an hour) and then it was good. Does it need to be open all the time????

ETA: I just checked Consumer Report. Yow. This is really a bit issue. Some people claim to have fix it using powdered detergent. Has anyone had luck with that?

https://www.consumerreports.org/front-load-washers/preventing-that-funky-front-loader-mold/

girl-wonder - That's what I thought as well. I leave mine open all the time. I have mold on the rubber seal even with the door always open. I have now started drying the rubber gasket with paper towels after each wash in addition to leaving the door open. When I took out my detergent dispenser there was mold inside the cavity where it goes. It took me hours to clean. In addition, these machines (Electrolux) which I was told were the best, have had 4 repairs in 5 years. I don't even have kids at home anymore. I'll be doing a big renovation within the year and am going back to the top loading Speed Queen. Much like the old Maytag that never broke down and I will no longer be a slave to mold.

You're only talking about a difference of less than an inch and a half.

@tatts, I’m confused. Are you saying the door needs to be propped open an inch a half. Or are you responding to the intiial question of how high to place the counter? I feel I need to error on the side of being more genrerous , so are you saying add another 1.5” of clearange for the machine. Thanks. My brain is in remodeling overload and not at peak capacity lol.

Front loaders, in general, are more of an issue than top loaders. I personally have front loaders. For mine, keeping up with maintenance has been the key. There is a very short monthly maintenance, including draining a small drain (30 seconds) and cleaning it with washing machine cleaner once a month (10 seconds to put cleaner in and turn on). Also, if I see gunk building up, I clean as I see it happening. I never leave mine opened to dry, but that might be helpful.

All in all, it is not an issue for me.

Instead of all of these counters/ door in front a machine, etc., would you consider full sized doors in front of the w/d? They could slide into pockets.

@CDR Design, LLC thanks for your feedback on the washer maintenance. I did research and apparently there are ways to reduce this (hope they work), or devices to keep the door slightly ajar. (Laundry lasso). The Maytag model I’m buying has some special cleaning cycle that you run every 30 loads.

yes I had considered full size doors with the stackers. (but I’m short and have trouble reaching the top). I’d have the same issue with the front loader. Full size doors for side by side mean the upper cabs are behind doors. I like the utility and open feel of having this created as a Built in can with counter.

Beware. I clean mine with “affresh” every 30 loads as well. Cleans the tub but not the rubber gasket. Also it does nothing to clean the detergent dispenser. Keeping the door open with the lasso also will not do much to dry the rubber gasket. It will help some but you will have to get in and wipe that area dry after each load. Also be careful with the Maytag brand. They aren’t like they used to be. Now made by Whirlpool and not going to serve you as well long term.

Overall, if you are the diligent type about cleaning, it is not a huge issue.

@CDR Design, LLC, thanks for that feedback.

@Design Girl what brand would you recommend? LG and Samsung are nearly impossible to find repair people. Did you try powdered detergent? I heard that helped, esp w/ the dispenser.

I have Electrolux which I was told by 4 different sales people in 4 different small independent appliance stores were the best (with the exception of the Speed Queen which is a commercial front loader and almost double the price). I live in CT about an hour outside of NYC, so I have access to all brands. I have used powdered detergent, but it doesn't seem to matter, I still need to leave the detergent dispenser open, and with that the fabric softener gets gunky. Water runs through the dispenser to flush out whatever kind of detergent you use and the dispenser gets moldy with no air circulation to dry things out. The detergent dispenser itself comes out for cleaning, but once you take it out the sleeve or interior gets moldy as well. It's difficult to clean as you need to put your arm in and just do the best you can. One salesperson suggested I use a hairdryer to dry out the dispenser after each load. Can you imagine. With my kitchen renovation, I am also going to redo my laundry room and am going back to the top loading Speed Queen. These machines are like the Maytags of 20 years ago before they were bought out by Whirlpool. I am actually going to change my cabinetry in order to do so. The maintenance to keep these front loaders clean actually takes as much time as the laundry and I'm done with it. If you do go ahead, I suggest getting the extended warranty, with purchase and continue after that runs out. Mine has come in quite handy in the last 5 years. It's paid for itself in the repairs needed. Have you thought about going with top loaders and putting them behind doors with storage above. Something like this, but with top loading machines. https://www.decoist.com/laundry-room-hidden-appliances-storage/washer-and-dryer-hidden-in-closet-with-beautiful-dark-wooden-doors/ BTW, I live on a cul-de-sac with 8 houses. Five of us have gotten front loaders in the last 6 years. Four of us have gotten rid of them and I'm only waiting until my remodel gets underway.

Bar height is a standard 42”. That means that many semi custom lines carry cabinet components in thst size, rather than having to do full custom. It also allows for the required ventilation clearances for the larger models. Each model has different ventilation requirements for the motors while in operation. Be sure to understand their requirements.

The other access requirement is the semi annual cleaning of the dryer hose and inspection of the water hoses. You have to be able to easily slide the units forward to disconnect, inspect, clean, and hook up again. Dryer fires are a very real risk. As are washing machine floods.

I have a laundry room off the kitchen. I have had front loaders, on pedestals, for about four years and always keep the door on the washer open about two inches and the laundry dispenser open about three inches. That said, I have had no mold or smells. I run a cleaning cycle when the light comes on and I use chloryx bleach per the washer manual. Now, I like what you are going to do but will add something to think about. I have cupboards over my machines and can only access the bottom shelf because of the deepness of the machines. To get to the upper shelves I have to get a step stool. You may want to see if the deepness of the machines, keeps you from getting things out of the cupboards above it. I realize my pedestals make it a problem but wanted to give you something to look into. You mentioned you are short and that is my problem also. I do not have a counter over my machines...use the top to fold clothes.

@erinsean - so true - I'm 5'2" and need a step stool to reach the cabinets above my front loader (no pedestals). I can make the top shelf, but nothing else. The machines come out to 36 inches or so, and the uppers are only 12 inches. The machines are 50% deeper than a standard 24 inch base. It makes a huge difference.

To clean my front loader, once a week I fill the detergent, softener and bleach with white vinegar and run a hot wash cycle. . Once a month, i fill all of those compartments with bleach and run a hot cycle. No need for special products.

I use bleach weekly for whites and also use white vinegar in each and every wash load. I can see that it would clean the compartments, but not underneath and in the cavity where the detergent dispenser goes. Of course, I have laundry in when I use these things. Still, with all this the mold still comes. Perhaps it depends on the climate you live in. A warmer climate may make these machines dry faster. I'm outside NYC and with all that I still have mold.