Yes, the motor board can fail in a way that keeps the diverter powered continuously (whenever the machine is connected to power). Unfortunately, the board probably has gone bad again for some reason. From where did you source the new board? Display boards can go bad but less common than motor boards. Did you remove the display board from the console during your investigations? Is it perhaps askew such that the far-left buttons are misaligned from the overlay? There's no way to access diagnostic mode or any other set-up mode (such as machine size) if the machine is non-responsive. Fault codes are viewed by pressing Spin Speed (up or down) until both Slow and Hold are lit. You did that procedure correctly when checking? Machine Size is set (with power off) by pressing/holding Water Temp Up (instead of Temp Down for Diagnostics), then Power. The selected size is indicated by Cold (small tub), Low (medium tub), or Hold (large tub). Press the the appropriate Temp, Level, or Spin Up button to select, then Power to exit. All US machines are large tub. You can try swapping-in the old board if you still have it to see what happens. It works other than the diverter problem? The various wire connectors are different sizes so should only fit to the correct locations (other than a smaller connector possibly into a wrong larger socket).

If the machine is dead, then the main board likely is fried. There are two boards. One is the control panel pushbutton board which likely is OK. The other is a separate motor/machine board mounted inside. Oftentimes if the pump (which is a separate electric motor from the main spin/agitate drive motor) leaks and shorts-out, it kills the main board. First thing is get under the machine and examine the pump for signs of leaking and damage (darkening/burning and/or corrosion) on the windings. The pump is removable without tools. It mounts to a metal bracket. Look for a plastic latch. Disconnect the wires, lift the latch, the pump body then rotates and drops off the mounting bracket. See instructions in the Small Leak/Drip thread dated Tue May 6, 2008 for how to open the control panel. The main board is the large brown housing with the plastic tube and many wires attached. Assuming the pump is bad, you can replace it, but the machine still won't run until the control board is replaced. The board and pump together run about $200. Two sources online for parts are http://www.searspartsdirect.com and http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net. Current prices at Sears are a little cheaper.

Fault Code 136. (10001000) Phase 1 to 6 - Motor Stall The Motor Control Model has been unable to start the motor. Possible causes of this fault are: Faulty motor harness, faulty or jammed motor, seized bearings or seals, faulty Motor Control Module, faulty Rotor Position Sensor or harness. Primary Source: Wiring Measure / check the rotor harness, connectors, and motor for discontinuity. This can be done by taking a resistance measurement between phases of the motor harness at the Motor Control Module end. Nominal resistance should be approximately 32 ohms for Phase 6 (GWL11). Secondary Source: Motor 1. Check free rotation of the agitator and inner drum by rotating by hand (note: the agitator will rotate with the drum, it can't move separately if there's no water in the tub). Bearings and seals may be seized. 2. Visually check the Rotor Position Sensor and associated harness for water contamination, mechanical damage, or corrosion. (Note: Do not attempt to test the RPS for resistance readings. It should be tested only with a special electronic diagnostic tool.) Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module If the primary and secondary checks pass inspection, then replace the Motor Control Module.

@derauf Permanent Press is the cycle that doesn't run Eco Active recirculation. Did you remove and examine the diverter for a broken linkage, or a foreign object jamming it from physically shifting modes? Assuming your pump runs and the diverter is not broken or jammed, a cause of continuous recirculation (failure to drain) is a bad motor controller board that continuously powers the diverter, per the previous replies to Greg Neault in this thread. Using Permanent Press won't circumvent that problem because the board is bad and powers the diverter at all times regardless of the selected cycle. A possible work-around is via disconnecting the diverter wires. Permanent Press is the only cycle that would work that way. The motor board would run the pump during recirculation periods on the other cycles which would drain the water even if the diverter is disconnected.