Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

9 years ago

I have run the diagnostic on my washing machine and lights 1 and 5 are on. I cannot find any information in regards to this online. I was wondering if anyone could help me with this problem. Thank you.

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Comments (3)

dadoes
9 years ago
Fault Code 136. (10001000) Phase 1 to 6 - Motor Stall
The Motor Control Model has been unable to start the motor. Possible causes of this fault are: Faulty motor harness, faulty or jammed motor, seized bearings or seals, faulty Motor Control Module, faulty Rotor Position Sensor or harness.

Primary Source: Wiring
Measure / check the rotor harness, connectors, and motor for discontinuity. This can be done by taking a resistance measurement between phases of the motor harness at the Motor Control Module end. Nominal resistance should be approximately 32 ohms for Phase 6 (GWL11).

Secondary Source: Motor
1. Check free rotation of the agitator and inner drum by rotating by hand (note: the agitator will rotate with the drum, it can't move separately if there's no water in the tub). Bearings and seals may be seized.
2. Visually check the Rotor Position Sensor and associated harness for water contamination, mechanical damage, or corrosion. (Note: Do not attempt to test the RPS for resistance readings. It should be tested only with a special electronic diagnostic tool.)

Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module
If the primary and secondary checks pass inspection, then replace the Motor Control Module.
debbie518
9 years ago
Fisher Paykel GWL 10
My washer is filling, trying to start agitating then the series of beeps with the #4 wash light and high water light flashing. In diagnostic mode, none of the wash progress lights light up. I can't find this pattern in the manual or on this sight. Any ideas? Tried lightening load, although there is not much in it.

This post was edited by debbie518 on Thu, Jun 26, 14 at 14:35
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I decided to go ahead and replace the control board. I purchased the board from needapplianceparts.com (http://www.needapplianceparts.com/420094usp.aspx) because: 1) It was new and updated control board (old board was sd11 new said sd12) 2) Price competitive. 3) Answered my questions promptly before I purchased. 4) Included a safety fuse to protect the control board in case of a short in the water pump. They also shipped very quickly and I received it in two days. Installation was straight forward. I checked the components it said to in the instructions with my multimeter - mostly checking resistance of different items. Then took my time to make sure I didn't make any mistakes when disconnecting and connecting wires. Plugged it back in, set the washer size (per the instructions) and has been working great ever since! We have ran 6-10 loads in the last week since it has been repaired with no issues. We noticed the clothes are actually getting cleaner now! We think that the washer was randomly draining the water during the cleaning cycle and with it the soap! Washer would refill with more water to compensate, but this means we were washing at first with soap, then would basically as the cycle went on and more of the water was drained and refilled at the end we were probably more rinsing rather then washing. Not sure if this was the case or not, but it makes sense to me what what we were seeing the last couple of weeks. Based on my experience I would recommend fixing or replacing the washer right away rather then trying to limp it along. Once the control board starts going bad with one thing who knows what else it is doing wrong in the washing cycle! Thanks again to Dadoes for all the great help here!
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The retrofit fuse is legitimate. It's included with replacement pumps and boards. Common that a pump wet from leaking over time (even a slow drip, anything that gets/keeps the pump wet) can go to high (or low) resistance due to corroded windings and blow the motor board. The added fuse is additional protection on that point. The F&P electrical design is very sensitive to resistance valves among the various components. VERY important to NOT ignore a leak, replace a bad/suspect pump *immediately* to avoid more trouble. I am not aware of 3rd-party boards but I suppose it's possible. Thailand-sourcing may be legitimate, can't say for sure about that, either. All replacement boards from F&P are rebuilt boards, they are no longer producing "virgin" boards for older (Phase 6 and older) models. The current GWL11 replacement does have a different connector for the diverter than the original board ... could be there are more differences since the last info I have. FisherPaykelParts.net, FisherPaykelParts.com, and SearsPartsDirect.com are legitimate parts sources for sure. eBay sellers, depends.
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I remeasured the resistance to the diverter valve and it was again 3.5 kohms which is higher than the speck so that probably needs to be replaced. Also I opened up control board from the plastic casing and did another visual inspection and found that a resistor that traces back to the diverter valve wires was blown. First photo shows an overall and the second a closeup of the blown resistor (in the middle of the picture about 1/4 up from the bottom) I thought about trying to replace just the resistor, but it is a surface mount and my soldering skills are not that great, and I also have no idea of the resistance needed! So long story short I think I need a new diverter valve AND and new control board. Approx. cost is $200, which I think is too much for a 12 year old washer. The good news is that it seems to works just fine on the permanent press setting so we are going to keep using it as is until we get a new one.
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dadoes
9 years ago
Any wash light (or the 2nd rinse light) + high water level light flashing indicates overloading and the machine unable to agitate properly ... which isn't necessarily caused by an overload of clothes.

The inner drum must float upward about 3/8" to disengage from the drive cog so the agitator can oscillate separately. Overloading is sensed by way of the extra inertial drag from the drum *not* having floated and oscillating with the agitator.

The drum settles back down on the drive cog to spin when the water drains, which is why the machine physically cannot spin until after the water is drained.

Check with no water or clothes if the drum can float by grabbing the rim of it with both hands at opposite sides and pulling upwards. It should slip upwards (and down) on the drive shaft about 3/8" without much effort.

If it doesn't slip up/down, then it may be stuck due to accumulation of lint and mineral deposits on the drive shaft and clutch cog. Fixing this requires disassembly to pull the inner drum for cleaning the residue.

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Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

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dadoes

debbie518

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