With a normal cycle, the washer seems to work normally until it gets to the rince cycle (3 rt lights on). At this point it pauses and intermitantly sprays and spins (though it seems to struggle getting up to full speed). That is how the shower-spray-spin rinse works. The wash water drains. Then there is a rinse period that runs through varying sequences of spinning at 300 RPM, 600 RPM, and 25 RPM, with sprays occurring at several points. The final spin follows, which ramps up to 1000 RPM if the highest spin speed is selected. With the softner rinse selected, the tub did fill in the rinse mode, but it would empty some and wait 2-3 minutes and then empty a little more and wait again and again. There is still soap on the clothes. With soap on the clothes, I am wondering if it is emptying completely even in the wash cycle. It eventually gets so that you can't see water in the tub, but there may be some water underneath. The machine physically can't spin unless the water is drained. Water in the tub makes the inner basket float slightly upwards to disengage from the drive coupler, it can't spin until the water drains and it re-engages the coupler. There shouldn't be any "wait 2-3 minutes" pauses during the drain periods following either the agitated wash or the agitated rinse. The pump should run through the drain period with *very* short pauses of maybe 1/2 second every 30 seconds or so until toward the end (when the inner basket de-floats) at which point the momentary pauses cease (they are to assist with flushing lint). Much longer pauses occurring indicates a probable bad pump. The pump has thermal overheat protection. It'll shut off if it overheats, then run again when it cools. Run the pump again in diagnostics and let it go for 5 to 7 minutes to confirm it doesn't shut off. Also, visually examine the pump for evidence of leaking, rusting or mineral deposits. Dismount it (no tools needed, ask if you aren't sure how to do it) and check if the impeller turns freely, or seems stiff or loose as if from bad bearings. As you've probably read in other threads here or elsewhere, a bad pump MUST be replaced ASAP or it can short-out and zap the controller board. I'm not sure what'd be the cause of obvious soap-suds remaining. Maybe the pump cycling off on overload, it isn't keeping up with draining the extracted wash & rinse water during spin. Maybe you're using too much detergent? Run a load through a full (short) wash & rinse cycle with no detergent, check if it seems rinsed better.

Yes, the motor board can fail in a way that keeps the diverter powered continuously (whenever the machine is connected to power). Unfortunately, the board probably has gone bad again for some reason. From where did you source the new board? Display boards can go bad but less common than motor boards. Did you remove the display board from the console during your investigations? Is it perhaps askew such that the far-left buttons are misaligned from the overlay? There's no way to access diagnostic mode or any other set-up mode (such as machine size) if the machine is non-responsive. Fault codes are viewed by pressing Spin Speed (up or down) until both Slow and Hold are lit. You did that procedure correctly when checking? Machine Size is set (with power off) by pressing/holding Water Temp Up (instead of Temp Down for Diagnostics), then Power. The selected size is indicated by Cold (small tub), Low (medium tub), or Hold (large tub). Press the the appropriate Temp, Level, or Spin Up button to select, then Power to exit. All US machines are large tub. You can try swapping-in the old board if you still have it to see what happens. It works other than the diverter problem? The various wire connectors are different sizes so should only fit to the correct locations (other than a smaller connector possibly into a wrong larger socket).

Code 49 relates to the cold water valve. Nothing to do with the diverter. Either the cold valve is bad, the wiring harness isn't making contact or a wire is broken, or possibly the controller board is bad. Code 49 (and the related Code 50 for the hot valve or Code 48 for both) triggers immediately upon connecting the machine to power. Pressing any button on the panel may clear it temporarily for accessing diagnostics. Try swapping the cold and hot wires, see if the code remains or changes. If Code 49 triggers with the COLD wires on the HOT valve then the wires or board is likely the fault. If Code 50 triggers with the HOT wires on the COLD valve, then the cold valve may be the fault. The valves can be tested with a multimeter (machine unplugged, valve wires disconnected, test across the valve terminals). Both should read 64 ohms. Do not apply 120v power to the water valves, they operate at 24v. I fear that if your pump smoked, could be the board got zapped.

Your GCFI outlet/circuit is what protected the machine from having a blown motor board. Major appliances are typically not recommended to be connected to GCFI outlets due to the potential for false interrupts ... but in this case it saved your machine from a much more expensive repair. The service tech who diagnosed the problem to the diverter is an idiot!