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Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve always off, bad controller? Again?

6 years ago

Quick bit of background / history. The GWL11 had an it’s first issue in 11/2013
with the diverter valve always being on, limped along using Perm Press until I
replaced the control board 8/2014. Full story here:

The washer then worked well until last week when the motor
stopped turning and gave a 130 fault code (RPS sensor). Ended up replacing the RPS sensor which fixed
the motor problem. But when running the
first load after replacing the sensor, the eco-wash did not work as the
diverter valve did not switch to recirculate the water and instead pumped the
water out of the machine. Debugging
steps I have done:

  • Measured resistance for
    the diverter valve at 3.5 kohms which is a bit above the .7 to 2.5khoms it
    should be.
  • I tested the diverter valve
    by directly applying 120VAC. The valve
    opens and closes just fine when tested this way.
  • I measured the voltage
    being supplied to the diverter valve while in diagnostics mode using “delicates”
    to turn the valve on or off
    • I checked the voltage under
      the washer by measuring right at the connectors when removed from the
      diverter. I measured to be about 45 VAC with the “delicates” button both on
      or off
    • I measured the voltage
      right off the board by removing the connector and touching the multi
      meter leads to the board. Here I
      would get about 12 VAC again with “delicates” button both on or off
    • I later measured the
      voltage from the short wire lead (4” or so) coming from the board where
      it connects to the main diverter wire.
      Measured here as it was easier to hold the multi meter probes. Here I measured about 14 VAC again with “delicates” button both on or off

The 45VAC below the washer was solid, but the other two were
tough to be sure I was getting a good connection to the multi meter probes whilst
reading the multi meter at the same time.

  • I removed the control
    board from its plastic housing and did a manual inspection of the board
    and did not see any obvious problems with scorch marks, bad capacitors,
    corrosion ect.

From what I can tell,
it looks like I should replace the main board (again!).
But what is bothering me is I can’t figure out why I would get different
voltage values depending on how far away I was from the main control
board. My multi meter is nothing
special, but has always worked well (verified it works as I measured my main
power at 120 VAC). I kept thinking I was
measuring it wrong, but double (and triple) checked, always giving 45VAC below
and around 12-14VAC by the board.

Any suggestions on what to do next? Any ideas of what is wrong?


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