Quick bit of background / history. The GWL11 had an it’s first issue in 11/2013
with the diverter valve always being on, limped along using Perm Press until I
replaced the control board 8/2014. Full story here:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2442121/fisher-paykel-gwl11-diverter-valve-allways-on-bad-controller

The washer then worked well until last week when the motor
stopped turning and gave a 130 fault code (RPS sensor). Ended up replacing the RPS sensor which fixed
the motor problem. But when running the
first load after replacing the sensor, the eco-wash did not work as the
diverter valve did not switch to recirculate the water and instead pumped the
water out of the machine. Debugging
steps I have done:

• Measured resistance for
  the diverter valve at 3.5 kohms which is a bit above the .7 to 2.5khoms it
  should be.
• I tested the diverter valve
  by directly applying 120VAC. The valve
  opens and closes just fine when tested this way.
• I measured the voltage
  being supplied to the diverter valve while in diagnostics mode using “delicates”
  to turn the valve on or off
  • I checked the voltage under
    the washer by measuring right at the connectors when removed from the
    diverter. I measured to be about 45 VAC with the “delicates” button both on
    or off
  • I measured the voltage
    right off the board by removing the connector and touching the multi
    meter leads to the board. Here I
    would get about 12 VAC again with “delicates” button both on or off
  • I later measured the
    voltage from the short wire lead (4” or so) coming from the board where
    it connects to the main diverter wire.
    Measured here as it was easier to hold the multi meter probes. Here I measured about 14 VAC again with “delicates” button both on or off

The 45VAC below the washer was solid, but the other two were
tough to be sure I was getting a good connection to the multi meter probes whilst
reading the multi meter at the same time.

• I removed the control
  board from its plastic housing and did a manual inspection of the board
  and did not see any obvious problems with scorch marks, bad capacitors,
  corrosion ect.

From what I can tell,
it looks like I should replace the main board (again!).
But what is bothering me is I can’t figure out why I would get different
voltage values depending on how far away I was from the main control
board. My multi meter is nothing
special, but has always worked well (verified it works as I measured my main
power at 120 VAC). I kept thinking I was
measuring it wrong, but double (and triple) checked, always giving 45VAC below
and around 12-14VAC by the board.

Any suggestions on what to do next? Any ideas of what is wrong?

Thanks!