Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Loading Washer
jessicacbrandt
16 years ago
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4 years agoWilliam Bronshvag
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Fisher Paykel GWL11 EcoSmart Washer Diverter Valve Problem
Comments (35)@derauf Permanent Press is the cycle that doesn't run Eco Active recirculation. Did you remove and examine the diverter for a broken linkage, or a foreign object jamming it from physically shifting modes? Assuming your pump runs and the diverter is not broken or jammed, a cause of continuous recirculation (failure to drain) is a bad motor controller board that continuously powers the diverter, per the previous replies to Greg Neault in this thread. Using Permanent Press won't circumvent that problem because the board is bad and powers the diverter at all times regardless of the selected cycle. A possible work-around is via disconnecting the diverter wires. Permanent Press is the only cycle that would work that way. The motor board would run the pump during recirculation periods on the other cycles which would drain the water even if the diverter is disconnected....See MoreFisher Paykel Washing Machine broken - Help!
Comments (26)I have a similar problem with my IW711E intuitive eco washing machine. The 4A fuse on the control module has blown. I've replaced it with a fuse holder and 4A fuse, which then blew after reconnecting the machine - it also trips the fuse in my fuse box. Multimeter readings: Thermistor 13000 Pump motor 32.7 Wash motor 30.5 Valves hot 60, cold 63.5 Diverter 2250 Lid lock 65.6 A couple of these are slightly out accordiing to the manual - http://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FSJ/Q52U/GLWR2CEI/FSJQ52UGLWR2CEI.pdf, which has Lid lock at 73 ohms +/- 5 ohms and valves at 64 ohms. Not sure how much difference that makes? The drain pump seems ok, I've tested it separately with mains power and it spins ok. Are there other diagnostics I can run? I see that WashingtonKayaker hooked up everything except the thermistor. Is it possible to leave other components not hooked up to the control module, see if it starts (doesn't blow the fuse) and then hook the components up one-by-one? Any other suggestions? Thanks for any help you can give. Otherwise I'm off to buy a new machine....See MoreFisher Paykel Washer GWL11 Code 49
Comments (7)Thanks for the reply. In diagnostic mode, the tech sheet says the corresponding led should light when either temp up or temp down is pressed. In both cases, the LED lights for an instant, and then goes out, on both hot and cold. Sometime the LED does not light at all. Am I at the point where I need to pull the control board and look for problems there? I found a site that gives general guidance on testing fuses resistors and such on the board. (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-repair-a-Fisher-Paykel-Washing-Machine/) But, I don't think it is exactly my model. If you can suggest some deeper diagnostics I can try, I don't have much to loose if I need a new board anyway. Thanks again!...See MoreFisher & Paykel washer GWL11 inlet valve replaced now leaks again
Comments (3)Both were replaced last year. I went to the appliance store yesterday (where we bought the F&P and they repaired it last year). Service dept wasn't open but sales guy said it would be very unusual for the new solenoid to fail in 9 months. Our water is hard but not crazy hard or not full of sediment. So I have no idea - could it have been installed wrong in any sense or a faulty part? Seems unlikely. Our space constraints and the limited options that will fit are discouraging. I'd hate to have to get a small apartment version. The Speed Queen top loader should fit in the space. Sales guy said those are being phased out due to federal regulations - implied they would only get bigger. I'm inclined to just get the current SQ rather than fool with the F&P any more. It has another issue of scrud building on the outside of the tub so we're already sick of dealing with that periodically....See Moredadoes
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