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Back from Italy - a food report

14 years ago

First of all, that recent question on the forum about what type of cuisine you'd want on a desert island? Italian, hands down. We got back Wednesday night after nearly 3 weeks in Italy and last night we had friends over for dinner --- melon and prosciutto, bruschettas of many varieties, a couple of bottles of Rosso di Montalcino, bucatini all'Amatriciana, sauteed broccoli rabe, and lemon tart with espresso. I definitely can eat pasta every day (and gelato on demand is not a bad thing either!)

But on to the report...

Tomatoes... It's nearly impossible to make bad sauce, with a base ingredient this good. A couple of my favorite tomato-based pasta dishes on the trip: Spaghetti al Tonno (tuna) - I'm pretty sure it was simply oil packed tuna, tomatoes, parsley and maybe a bit of onion and garlic. Bucatini all'Amatriciana - I had this a couple of times in Rome. On our last night at dinner, it was the best ever. I had a discussion with the restaurant owner about the preparation -- saute onion in olive oil and butter, add diced guanciale (cured pork cheek) and saute a bit more, then add whole peeled tomatoes and slow cook for about five hours; at the end stir in grated pecorino cheese. Since both the cheese and the guanciale are quite salty, use less salt in your pasta water and no added salt in the sauce. He said no to pancetta as a substitute, but when I made it last night, that's what I used since I could not get the guanciale from our local Italian market. It came out quite close to what we ate that last night.

Gnocchi/gnoccheti - many, many interpretations on what this actually is, from the tiny light as feather potato dumplings, to more orchiette-shaped firmer dough morsels. And the sauces, just as varied. One particular highlight was a pesto made from arugula instead of basil, with the gnocchetti surrounded by a ring of fresh arugula. It was a wonderful combination of very rich and just the right amount of bitter.

Dried pastas - It's so much easier to achieve the right consistency of "al dente" with a good dried pasta. I can't really explain it, but even the dried pasta seems fresher, so you get that "toothiness" without any gritty/chalky sensation if that makes any sense.

Non-tomato based pasta dish favorites: spaghetti con vongole (fresh clams, olive oil, garlic, parsley) and spaghetti cacio e pepe (olive oil, a bit of pasta water, grated pecorino and pepper whisked into an incredibly creamy sauce).

Fresh pastas - all I can say is, lasagnes and crespelles (more pasta-like than crepe-like to me), pure heaven, melt in your mouth, rich, again as many varieties of preparation as you can imagine, but none like the standard heavy tomato/cheese/many-layered standard in the U.S.

Eggplant parmigiana - most like what you find here, but on the menus, it was listed as an antipasti (appetizer) and served as a smaller portion (which was perfect because it is so rich).

Vegetable side dishes in restaurants - most often sauteed, and very heavily cooked. Not my favorite method of preparation except for spinach.

Secondi Piatti (or main meat/fish dishes) - most often simply prepared roasted, grilled, sauteed meats, fish, chicken. I don't have too much to write here as it was so hot on the trip, that many of our meals were more antipasti and pasta and not bothering with the second plates. Also saw items like saltimbocca and osso buco on the menu, but those will have to wait for a winter visit when I can think about eating those heavier dishes.

Fresh fruit and vegetables - lots of straight-from-the-farm fresh options - zucchini, artichokes, tomatoes, greens, melons, cherries, plums, peaches, berries... a wonderful variety this time of year, and readily available even at the smallest markets.

Deli cases - pickled anchovies, lush sundried tomatoes, marinated baby artichokes, olives of all kinds, vats of fresh made pestos.

Cheeses - stick with the local specialty and you can't go wrong, and the local specialty changes maybe every 20 miles... cow's milk mozzarella (called fior di latte) from the Lattari Mountains, bufala mozzarella from the plains south of Salerno, pecorino from the hills an hour or two north of Rome... I could go on...

Cured meats - salami/salumi --- beef, pork, cinghale (wild boar), fine or coarsely distributed fats, so good, so many choices! Prosciutto and melon - the best summer appetizer.

Desserts - gelato, lemon granita, wonderful. DH was on a quest for the best tiramisu, but I don't think he found it.

Bread - most often a very simple, heavy loaf, unsalted. Pretty much used only to sop up that last bit of sauce. Never served with butter or olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Occasionally, a good ciabatta would be used for bruschetta (if that was the restaurant specialty).

Pizza - two distinct choices: thicker crust breadlike squares found in the bakeries for a breakfast or mid-morning snack, or woodfired, thin-crust pies I'll dream about for a long time. If tomato sauce was on it, it was always a simple fresh tomato puree. Tried a few varieties, but it's hard to beat the purity of a margherita.

Coffee - all I can say is Starbucks will now taste really weak! And a fine cappuccino and cornetti for breakfast can be found at any corner bar.

Buon appetito!

Comments (37)

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ****sigh***
    I am so envious!!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ann, that sounds like a wonderful trip. As you know, Elery is planning a trip to Italy for us in a couple of years, so I've just been watching for your report.

    I'm afraid I'd lean much further toward the seafood and away from the pasta, but I'm glad I read the part about how hot it was, it reminds me to check the climate before we decide what time of year to go...

    It sounds like a wonderful trip, welcome home.

    Annie

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  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm so glad you had a fantastic time! Everything sounds wonderful and I wish I could have tasted it right along with you.

    Alexa

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Great post! Welcome Home.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, Welcome Home. It must have been a fabulous trip and I loved your descriptions of the food.

    But, I'm really impressed that you could prepare such an extensive dinner for guests so soon after you got back.

    Thanks so much for sharing this.

    Lee

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ann, you're killing me! What a wonderful trip you had. I'd love to be able to go and stay that long. I went to Tuscany a couple of years ago, but we only had about 10 days, which were wonderful, but I could have stayed longer.

    Your descriptions of the food made my mouth water. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences.

    jude

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I am drooling, Ann. I have been to Italy twice, and would go back in a heartbeat! The food is fantastic.
    Thanks for the report.
    Sherry

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm jealous too! I was fortunate enough to live in Italy for almost 3 years. Funny thing, even though I ate tons of food, I lost weight because I walked everywhere. I did not eat alot of meat however so I'm sure that was a part of it also. Lot's of seafood though.

    Lucky you!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks for the report! It was delightful to read.

    I've never been there and it sounds just wonderful!

    Grace

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Where all did you go? We spent most of June in Italy. I went with my two kids and then DH joined us for the last two weeks. It was fabulous. I've been meaning to write a report on here about it, but have been too busy with kids stuff this summer to do it. We went to Venice, Florence, Rome, Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi. The thing we miss most about the food is the meats and cheese --- we just can't find the cured meats here that taste like those in Italy..... they were to die for. I also miss the granitas--- mint and lemon, Yum!!! Also, some of the gelato was incredible. And finally, the basil was ridiculously inexpensive. We cooked one meal in our apartment and bought the basil, tomatoes and fresh pasta at the farmer's market for it. We bought a bag of basil that was about the size of 2 or 3 heads of lettuce and it was only $2.

    Annie, tell Ellery when he plans the trip to Italy, you need to stay in apartments. It's much less expensive and they are wonderful---- more room, kitchens, wi-fi, TV, washers. I'll eventually get around to putting some pictures of our trip and apartments on here, but they were really nice and much cheaper than hotels. One of our owners even bought us dinner our first night, and it was one of our best meals in Italy!

    I can't wait to go back... so much more to see, do, and eat there.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Welcome home and a big THANKS for sharing.

    Sounds heavenly.

    Nancy

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Welcome home Ann, it sounds like you had a wonderful time eating your way through Italy (and seeing some of the sights of course)! All your descriptions are making me very hungry, I think I'll have to go make some pasta now. Thanks for that!

    Don't you just love that country? I'm heading back on Monday for two weeks in Treviso (30km north of Venice). When I was there in May it was raining and terrible so we didn't see very much or do anything but work. I'm hoping this time we'll be able to wander around Venice and maybe take a side trip to Florence. I'm really looking forward to a real pizza and some fantastic coffee. Now I just have to get my husband to take time off work sometime and go with me, he's become very jealous of my semi-frequent trips...

    Welcome home and enjoy recreating all the tasty memories!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I am envioous, too! In all my travels to Europe I have yet to get to Italy!

    Sounds like a great time and I am sure with food like that at my beck and call I'd come home 20lb heavier! LOL

    Linda

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Someday. That is my dream trip.

    Can I ask what the different varieties of Bruschetta you had?

    We are planning a party soon and we want to do a Bruschetta party and have about 10 different kinds.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks all for the comments. I struggle with long posts, as I'm not much of a writer. But dlynn, our trip overlapped much of yours. Since our last trip was in Venice and Tuscany, this time we flew to Rome, and spent our first night in an apartment attached to a castle in a small village called Proceno just about 2 hours north of Rome. We then spent only a couple of days just outside of Siena in an agriturismo and a one-night hotel splurge in Florence. We then headed south to Pompeii for one night, then had a week stay in an apartment in Positano that was our base for visiting the Amalfi Coast. Our highlight there was a kayak trip from Amalfi to a village just west of Salerno.

    We finished the trip with a 5-day apartment stay in Rome. I second the use of apartments instead of hotels as I love to go to markets and prepare meals from time to time. It's also great for kids as you don't have to constantly be on the go. In Rome, we'd head out in the morning, do some sightseeing, come back for siesta then head out again for gelato and more walking and end with a late night dinner and more walking (and maybe another gelato).

    I would also add, don't miss a stay in an agriturismo (farm stay). It's a great way to meet people, and see the country in an entirely different way. Perfect for Tuscany and there are many good ones. I can definitely recommend a couple.

    Annie, when you and Elery are ready to start planning a trip, I'll be happy to help with recommendations and ideas based upon what you want out of a trip. In general, we try not to overdue the museums/galleries/major tourist sites as the best part of Italy to me is just walking and eating and the "dolce far niente".

    bri29, how is it you get to travel there so often? We're ready to go back!

    theresa mn, where did you live? why did you leave? I'd love to hear your impressions of living there rather than just visiting. The woman that owned our Rome apartment was an American journalist/writer who has lived in Italy for 20+ years. She had an interesting perspective.

    Annie, July and August can be quite hot. It got up to nearly 90 while we were in Positano as the sun really bakes the rocky coastline, but luckily we spent much of the time on/in the water. But it definitely made sense when we were in the cities to take advantage of siesta time in the air conditioned apartment. I think my favorite time of year in Italy is late September/early October, still warm, and lots of fresh produce still available. Unfortunately, with DS, we can't take him out of school at that time.

    DH posted tons of pictures on Facebook. Over the weekend, I'll post some pics.

    Ann

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Magic AZ...
    Bruschetta ideas:
    first toast with olive oil (can be infused with garlic or herbs if you like), and lightly toast, then top with:
    1. Standard of chopped fresh tomato, basil and olive oil
    2. Roasted marinated peppers and fresh ricotta cheese
    3. Pesto with bufala mozzarella

    That's what we had for dinner last night.

    DS and DH particularly liked a strange and strong combination of marinated anchovies and gorgonzola cheese, but I wouldn't recommend it for the general public!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ahh, you DID do the Amalfi coast. It was heaven on earth. My sister and I went to Rome, then bought train tickets for Venice, since she had never been there. Before we went to Venice, we rented a car and drove to the Amalfi coast. We stayed in a 14th century monastery high on a huge hill/small mountain that had been converted to a hotel. Our rooms were small, and had square screenless portholes for ventilation, which overlooked the sea. The dining room was outdoors, under a roof of bouganvillea. We would walk down to the little village and buy limoncello and drink it. needless to say, we did not go to Venice, but stayed much lunger at the Amalfi coast. I would live there if I could.
    Thanks Ann, for the reminder of one of my favorite places in the world.
    Sherry

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks for the report, what a trip!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Sherry,
    Your recollection brought me right back to Amalfi. Very brave, driving on that coast road, DH drove, I didn't!

    Here's some pics of the trip.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Italy Trip 2010

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Awesome! Thanks for the food descriptions & the pixs. My aunt once went on a week vacation to Rome. She stayed a year until her boss bullied her into returning home. :) She was a fifth grade teacher. I'm glad you & your family had such a great trip...memories to last a lifetime.

    /tricia

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Sounds great! The first time I ever had Bucatini all'Amatriciana was at a little restaurant, Orso 80, just off of the Piazza Navona. DW and I were there on our wedding anniversary--18 years ago. Unforgettable. I always order it whenever I see it on a menu, but somehow it never quite is the same.

    We both agree, though, that's our first stop next time we make it to Rome. If you ever make it there, be sure to try this place; the appetizer plate alone could feed an army.

    It's probably good that I don't live in Italy, or I'd end up weighing 500 pounds. The food is so great.

    Here is a link that might be useful: orso 80

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Arley,
    I'll file that restaurant away for the next time. We also found a wonderful gourmet cheese shop/deli/restaurant that was booked solid that we are vowing to come back to. And since we threw the coins in the Trevi Fountain, I'm sure we'll be back!

    Tricia...
    I can see how that happened to your aunt. I wasn't expecting DH to love Rome, but he was ready to sell the house and send for the dogs and just stay!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Rome was wonderful. My sister and I went to the Coliseum at about 11:30 at night. When we finally found it, it gave me goosebumps. It was sooooo huge! Then coming back, we found out that the busses and taxis stopped running, and we were miles from our hotel. My sister, young, slim and cute, flirted with an off duty taxi driver who took us back to our hotel free of charge. LOL.
    Oh, Ann, if you go again, can I please, please, please hide in your luggage?
    Sherry

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ann, what wonderful pictures, thank you. Nice boat too, LOL, and I think your son looks like you. I'll definitely have to show Elery these.

    Yes, I'll be sure to email you when we get ready to start seriously planning. Right after I buy that Italian version of Rosetta Stone, since I can't say anything in Italian at all.

    Apartments? Wow, I'll definitely have to check into that. How do you find one? Through a travel agent?

    Annie

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Annie, I'll help you with the apartments. VRBO.com is a good place to start. Also check out www.slowtrav.com as well. They have sites for rental agencies that are pretty good.

    Zeke (DS) and I are going to start taking Italian lessons. I learned quite a bit over the past few trips, but it's time to learn the next level. And the cool thing is that, unlike France, people love to help you with the language and will often speak English, but mix in just a few words in Italian to help you along.

    Sherry, your adventure sounds so wonderful. You need to go back. I think Italy suits you. That's just it about Italy. You don't have to exactly follow the rules, but somehow everything works out great.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ann, thanks for posting all those pictures, you guys look like you had such a good time! I usually only have evenings to play while I'm in Italy. This time we're there for two weeks so we have a whole weekend! It's not nearly the same as a week or more of vacationing, but I'll take it!

    The reason I get to go semi-regularly is that my company was purchased by an Italian company a few years ago. I go over about once a year to work with my counterparts and get new products going on the manufacturing line. That's the purpose of this trip, we're bringing up a new production line so they wanted a couple of us engineers to go over to help out.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What a marvelous travelogue, thanks ever so much for sharing it with us! Your photos were great! Our DD was in Venice for 3 weeks this spring and they enjoyed coffees, gelato and loads of pastas. Sadly her family aren't foodies, but our older DGS did grow to love the panini!

    I'd love to see the Amalfi coast and visit more of Tuscany. The apartments and the agricultural experience are out of the norm for the average time constrained tourists, but something I'd love to have done. We spent two weeks in 3 cities-- more than 30 years ago. Time to return!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    WOW...cant wait to go to Italy thats gonna be my 25th wedding anniversary trip...so i have 7 years to go!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It all looks so wonderful! I love your photos and descriptions. And how did you not gain 40 pounds? ;)

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We loved the paninis in Venice. They were better than the paninis in the other cities we visited. In fact, we didn't really enjoy our "nice" meals in Venice as much as we did the paninis there. That could be why your DGS grew to love them so much. When we talk about food in Italy, my kids always mention the sandwiches in Venice.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank You!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What a wonderful picture you painted for us. My hubby still has some family in Italy but we have never been there. They are distant relatives so I don't think we could stay with them. Maybe I'll start looking for affordable packages and start planning.

    Thanks for sharing with us.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Mmmmm. Good coffee. Gelato. I might have to rethink that Italian food thing....

    Ann, I'm glad the Italians are patient with people who are not native speakers. I am not a natural mimic and as much as Ashley and Elery have both tried to teach me Spanish, I don't get it at all. I say something a dozen times, they both correct me each time, I try again. They correct me, I try again. I've never once gotten it right, no matter how many tries, so the Italians had better be really patient.

    I'll be asking for coffee and they'll be directing me to the bathroom or something, LOL.

    Annie

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    bri29...
    Are you sure you can't tack on an extra couple of vacation days on those work trips? That's what I used to do when I traveled for work (drove my boss nuts!). I don't know if it would work for your schedule, but, if you haven't already, I'd highly recommend staying overnight in Venice. The evening stroll along the canals, when the large tour groups are gone, is magical.

    Compumom...
    You're WAYYYY overdue for a visit. The apartment stays are not as difficult to arrange as you might think. Though some require a week stay, especially in the high season, there are many more apartment owners who will rent for 3 or 4 nights. It does take much more planning time to find the right place though. As for the agriturismos, many of these are run like a small hotel or B&B, so you can stay even one night if that's all you can allow for your schedule, but to really get the experience, again 3-4 nights to me is about minimum. What we do is pick a place based on location that allows us to do day-trips from that spot. It really saves on the wear and tear of packing and unpacking, and too much hotel/restaurant food.

    Eileen...there's always a 20th anniversary trip?! ;)

    Barnmom... I think it's a combination of tons of walking and numerous espressos. That might be the true key to the "mediterranean diet"

    Dlynn... That's one thing I like about Italy; there are plenty of options that are a great alternative to fast food, even if you're not a gourmet eater.

    Annie... Hand gestures, shrugs, smiles all go a long way toward communication. And people are mre than happy to communicate in whatever language works.

    Grazie, everyone for the kind words!

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Annie, don't forget the English-Italian dictionary... that will be very handy. On my trip home I sat next to an adorable young guy from Naples that was on his first trip to the US. His company was sending him to Minneapolis. He spoke some English, but we used the dictionary a lot. He wanted to know what there was to do in Minneapolis. All I could think of was the Mall of the Americas. I had to explain it with lots of hand gestures because "rollercoaster" wasn't in my book. He finally figured out what I was talking about when I found the Italian words for "amusement park", but was confused when I tried to explain that the roller coaster was indoors. We had a wonderful 12 hour plane ride conversing in our limited knowledge of each other's language.

    Also, he was going to be giving a presentation while in the US and was listening to my pronunciation of English so that he would have some of his words correct. I finally told him that I was not a good "role model" for him because I had a Southern accent. We finally got our Italian speaking flight attendant involved in the conversation and she explained to him that my English was comparable to a Sicilian's Italian....he laughed and said he'd try not to imitate me in his speech.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ann:
    Thanks for telling all about your trip.
    Almost made me feel like I was there.

    My daughter is there now with some friends.
    They left on 7/11 till the 29 th.
    I was supposed to go with them but I thought it better not to , because of medical problems.

    They went to about 8 places so far and are now in Sicily.
    Tommorrow they will go across to the boot, to Badolato,Italy, my Namesake village.
    It is on the instep near the sole.
    I gave her papers, to bring, pretaining to my Grandparents and Father, so they could be translated.

    Hope they don't hand her a pile of Bills.

    She sent me a few emails, telling me about all the good food, like you mentioned.
    They will eventually wind up in Rome.
    - - - - - - - - - -

    Maybe I'll find out about taking a Cruise Ship . I can do that.
    Have to bring someone to talk to.

    Glad you had a great time.
    Ciao !!! Lou

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ann, sounds like an amazing trip. I really enjoyed reading your food report. Thank you.

    Ann