Something between BM Edgecomb and Titanium...
Hi all!
I'm looking for a warm, light, very neutral khaki grey for my first floor.
I had picked BM Titanium 2141-60 and thought it was perfect but now I'm worried -- it's seeming sweet blue grey, almost cool, when what I want is a very warm feel.
The pic below shows it with things representing my two tone cabs (pug is standing in for the black), natural maple and birch (floor and butcherblock), tiny Caesarstone sample (Alpine white) and backsplash tiles (Fauxroccan and big subway).
We first picked Edgecomb Grey as The One but in our blue Northern light it's pulling a bit tan/pink and we're not huge fans.
We have a neutral cream similar to BM Mayonnaise throughout now and it feels too yellow to me, so I think I like green undertones better than yellow.
So I'm going back to the paint store this morning for testers -- what should I put on the list? November Rain? Moonlight white? Athena?
Here are some others we tried:
Revere P -- too dark
Stonington -- too cold
Moonshine, grey owl -- too grey
Silken Pine, Horizon - omg so blue
Anything I should put on the list? Thanks very much for your help!
Here's a photo of the connecting rooms - the new kitchen is going behind the French doors (wall is down).
The beige furniture is gone but the curtains remain
Comments (30)
robo (z6a)
10 years agoIs it wrong that I think the drywall color looks pretty good? Maybe I should just tell my contractor to stop mudding and leave it at that? ;)
(moonlight white and titanium strips to the right)
This post was edited by robotropolis on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 8:34
patiencenotmyvirtue
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Why BM vs something like Behr?
Comments (27)Okay, I’m going to put in my 2 cents here, mostly to educate the DIY’ers out there About paint. I worked in the paint department of both Home Depot & Lowes for a combined 6 yrs up until 2016. I’ve taken ALL the available paint classes. I’m going to tell you guys a secret... the reason it takes a MINIMIUM of 2 coats, is due to several influencing factors. #1) your wall texture. The more porous, or heavily textured your wall is, the more likely you will get less “coverage” out of your paint, because it is either being sucked up by the texture, (usually unprimed) or it is a bumpy texture which has more surface area to cover per brush/roller stroke. #2) your roller. The texture of your roller must match the texture of the wall. Smooth walls require a shorter napp. Heavier textures require a longer napp. When these things don’t “match” so to speak, you’ll get what are called “hollidays” in the painting world. It’s those little spots where the “under Color” shows through, as if the new paint took a “Holliday” in that spot. This happens all the time when using rollers, regardless, but it’s worse when your napp is too short for the texture. #3) the amount of titanium white your paint brand started out with Before tinting. Titanium white is GENERALLY what are Considered “solids” in the paint, although I’m sure there are others I’m forgetting. #4) the COLOR of the new paint. each color has a “depth” which requires a particular amount of tint. Whites, off whites, pastels, and generally lighter colors are tinted using a WHITE tinting base. These cans are the purest whites that company offers, and can be used right off the shelf. They are usually 3/4 or more full of Titanium white. Medium dark colors are tinted into a “medium” tint base. These cans CANNOT be sold directly off the shelf and must be tinted. They have less overall volume inside the can to begin with, (in order to leave room for tint.) & they are around 1/2 titanium white. Dark or deep colors are mixed into a ”DEEP” tint base. These cans have the least overall volume to begin with, and there’s about 1/4 or less of titanium white in each can. Here’s the secret.. titanium white is what provides the coverage! Tint, by itself, doesn’t cover, it’s somewhat like a gel, and is VERY sticky on its own. It is essentially pure pigment, mixed with an additive to make it viscous. when you take a color, let’s say RED, which by itself has a very translucent property, and you dump a whole boatload of it into a can which (in order to achieve that deep rich he’d you’re looking for) has virtually no titanium white in it, you’re going to get a see through paint, no matter the brand. now, have you ever been offered a tinted (usually grey) primer to put on under that red paint? Did you choose against it, thinking it would be unnecessary? Think again! That neutral grey, gives that red paint a dark neutral base to start from! It richens the color on the first coat! You can sometimes have the primer tinted pink, but grey primer or a grey paint base coat works best. (Don’t believe me? Do a sample board painted 1/2 white, 1/2 medium grey, then paint red across the whole thing.... see? 😉) also, don’t expect your deeper colors to dry as quickly. they don’t. Tint, by itself, never stud.. or “cures” because there are zero gardeners in it. All that tint needed for that deep color, created a very sticky situation inside that can. The other secret I’m going to tell you deals with the other additives in your can besides the titanium white. They are the clear liquids. The chemical mixture and amount of each of these, determines the dry time, viscosity, elasticity, yellowing propensity, durability, hardness and water soluabLilith of the paint. They are basically the GLUE holding it all together, and keeping it on your wall. Each company has a different proprietary blend, making its paint unique. Ive found, that for the most part, how well it turns out with YOUR can of paint, is based on the project, the knowledge of the painter, and the teaching/advising capabilities of the sales clerk. Other than that, MOST paints are created FAIRLY equally. Do your research people. There! Now that’s a thing you know. 😉👍...See MoreNeed a cream color for kitchen leading to Edgecomb Gray living room.
Comments (11)That is a very pretty color, but I think the LRV of 88 is a bit too stark for what I'm looking for. LRV doesn't help you out in terms of stark, dull, muted, vivid, etc. LRV strictly speaks to how much light a color reflects back into the room and conversely how much light it absorbs. Chroma is the dimension of color that speaks to grayness, dull, muted, vivid, clean, dirty, etc....See MoreBM Edgecomb Gray & Balboa Mist turn Purple - SW Natural Tan pink. HELP
Comments (24)Neutral colors are a mix of different colors, so depending on what you have next to your neutral the neutral color appears to pink or blue or green or yellow. It really isn't a foreign concept to most women, we just haven't thought about paint color the same way we look at makeup and clothing. My sister has an olive skin tone and medium brown hair, I have an ivory skin tone and dark hair and my sister in law has blond hair, blue eyes and a fair golden skin tone. We don't look good in the same colors. Your home is full of colors. What looks good next to my purples and purple reds and smokey teals won't look good next to my sister's greens and golds and orange reds or next to my sister in law's cornflower blue, peach and butter yellows. We each had to pick neutrals that went with the decor and flooring and woods that fill our home. Can you imagine my purples, reds and teals with a moss green neutral a yellow tan or is it better with a taupe that has slightly purple undertones? Below is a demonstration of how neutrals can look very different based on the colors around them. Both sections have one color in the center of each block. It is the same color in each block all the way across the page, yet the color appears more pink or green or yellow or blue depending on the color next to it. If edgecomb gray is picking up purple you probably have yellow undertones around it. Edgecomb gray is a pretty solid neutral with just a hair more pink and less green than revere pewter. Baby Fawn or tapestry beige may work nicely - just a bit less pink/purple undertones and a hair more yellow. I would recommend that you pick your flooring before picking the paint color because it could also change the perceived wall color. If you can gather together samples of the colors that are staying and lay them out on a white sheet in natural daylight (I like to do this outside on a clear day) and look at a bunch of neutral swatches next to the colors you will start seeing the patterns. More yellow looks better or grayer looks better a little more green looks better....See MoreAnother color similar to the warm side of Edgecomb Gray but lighter?
Comments (24)which is a match to SW creamy. Δ E is the first line of data. It tells you how closely a color matches your target color. Anything over 1.0 isn't that great of a match. For example, at 1.2 I wouldn't bother pulling a chip of Creamy because I know it's not going to be close enough. Δ E less than 1.0 and it's worth taking a look. Δ E less than 0.5 and it's likely to be very close in hue family, value and chroma. LCh works extremely well for whites and neutrals - it's an objective description of color under a controlled and balanced light source. If a color appears different from it's LCh notation, that's a matter of subjective opinion, context and lighting. It's not a matter of fact. For every one person who perceives a color as looking different from its LCh notation in a specific context, under unspecified light sources, you'll find at least one more who perceives the color exactly as the LCh values indicate. There's evidence of that all over this forum. For example, Stonington Gray. Some think it's a blue-gray while others think that's absolutely nuts. Because in their house, in their context and lighting Stonington looks "true neutral gray" no hue bias at all, which is in alignment with it's Green-Yellow hue family notation. And because we have an organized framework of color notations, we can put evidence of color appearance together and study the results. For example, we know that low chroma colors from the Green-Yellow hue family, like Stonington Gray, can absolutely appear with no hue bias and look totally neutral - or - it can shift and look bluish in certain contexts and lighting conditions. Because we're aware, we can sample colors smarter. We know what to look for. That's one of the main reasons it's useful to learn how to use color data values like you see on EasyRGB. I like how the main color stays in the background so you can see how the others are more green, gray, etc. Be careful with that. What you're seeing is 100% about how your device is able to display color than actual and factual color appearance in real life. You can see this for yourself. For example, what you're seeing will look markedly different on your phone vs. your laptop....See Morerobo (z6a)
10 years agopatiencenotmyvirtue
10 years agorobo (z6a)
10 years agoI looked high and low for a fabric in this colorway. That was a couple of years ago. Tonic Living has some even better fabrics now!
And waverly has some AWESOME mod chinoiserie fabrics...to die for....this one has a similar colorway
Waverly lotus chintz
robo (z6a)
10 years agosjhockeyfan325
10 years agorobo (z6a)
10 years agochispa
10 years agopeony4
10 years agorobo (z6a)
10 years ago
Annie Deighnaugh
10 years agorobo (z6a)
10 years agoThanks Annie! That color looks like it could have some brown/pink undertones. I will check it out at the store!
While I have you all here, I have the following 9-foot-long painting hanging in my (12x12) (windowless) dining room. It takes up the whole wall facing kitchen
DR is open to the kitchen, but windowless. I was thinking of going cozy and warm, maybe paint the wall behind this painting something intense?
Not ready to choose a specific shade until I see how much light will now penetrate into DR from kitchen (i.e. till kitchen is done).
But if you were me, what color family would you be looking at?
Kitchen is black bases, white uppers, grey and maple.
Color families I have considered:
* Ochre
* Pumpkin
* Deep avocado
* Charcoal
* BlackI also have to work around a door in this wall -- all other doors on this floor will be painted white unless I specify otherwise.
This post was edited by robotropolis on Sun, Jan 26, 14 at 9:51
done_again_2
10 years agoAnnie Deighnaugh
10 years agorobo (z6a)
10 years agoA nice deep cobalt blue maybe? To go with my Xmas present to the husband?
This post was edited by robotropolis on Sun, Jan 26, 14 at 11:47
robo (z6a)
10 years agoUgh! Despite what it said on website, paint store is closed today. But I think I'm pretty happy with my frontrunner, French Canvas. It and OP are very nearly identical.
Morning light - Titanium, French Canvas, Old Prairie (drywall in front of OP)
Afternoon light - FC left, OP right
FC is a little greener, OP is slightly greyer.
This post was edited by robotropolis on Sun, Jan 26, 14 at 13:56
crl_
10 years agodaisychain01
10 years agorobo (z6a)
10 years ago
Kathy Stuart
5 years agoEmmaNJ
4 years agorobo (z6a)
4 years agoAre we the same person!? I painted my cottage seapearl and my bedroom edgecomb (which yes reads a bit taupish)!! Hahaha. I like the French canvas, it’s a very neutral off white. Seapearl has a touch more personality. Here it is with - very white trim.
robo (z6a)
4 years agorobo (z6a)
4 years agoHere are some more (pro) shots of the seapearl and the last is ballet white which is a surprisingly charming light sandy beige.
robo (z6a)
4 years ago
chispa