Shoot, if I knew where it was I'd be there with $501 to try and outbid you. (Just kidding!)

Replacing the cord shouldn't be a problem, though depending on your experience at such things it might be an electrician's job. I can get my DH's opinion on that tomorrow evening. You'll probably need to get an electrician to install the correct socket to plug it in anyhow.

I'm not terribly worried about the shipping struts if the owners can honestly say it was just hauled upstairs and stowed without dropping it. How far do you have to move it? And can you carry it carefully, tied down and upright the whole way (except for the odd tilt while laid back on an appliance hand cart) ? Perhaps your local Miele place could lend you (or you could rent if they're feeling cranky) a set of used struts. Failing that I would consider taking the back off (requires a Torx driver, IIRC) and stuffing some dense foam pieces (tucked into old nylons to collect any pieces that get detached) or towels in and around the drum to keep it trimmed up during careful moving. (Count the pieces so you can be sure you get them all out.)

The mold might be a problem and if it was then it might be a techs job to change out the boot. I find the Miele pretty easy to work on. I've just never had occasion to monkey around in that area. My suggestion would be to ignore the mold at first, except for cleaning and giving it a goodish bath in Clorox and *very* hot water and then if the machine makes you happy in other ways, then go to the trouble of replacing the boot which sounds like the most expensive (only relatively speaking) job of those you mentioned. Since you're not smelling mold (especially from the a drain sump that still held water), chances are it was just a patch of of soapy water that slowly dried down on the boot. No biggie, but possibly an annoying cosmetic issue. Did you take out the entire detergent drawer to look for mold hidden behind and underneath? It's easy to do by pressing down on the little red(?) toungue and pulling it straight out. It should be removed for routine cleaning every now and then anyway.

Make sure both ends of both supply hoses still have their little strainer baskets. They can be a bit of bear to get off the machine, so I wouldnt worry too much about the machine end, but look at the water hook-up end.

If this was in a freezing area did the move happen before or after winter?

Stupid movers for just cutting the cord (probably couldn't figure out how to disconnect it.) And dare I say it in case they read this - silly sellers to sell the Miele and keep the Neppie! But maybe they don't want a long-cycle default machine.
Unless it was abused by the maiden lady, or dropped by the movers (and you would probably see case damage if that happened), I bet the machine will work just fine. Lucky you! You can download the owners' manual from the Miele Canada site and I will help you out with any tips you need. The 1918 is a very...

Wow, Molly, what a tremendous response. Thanks!

The power cord didn't seem to be cut. At the lower left corner of the back of the machine (when facing the back) there appears to be an electrical connection -- screws holding down metal circles attached to red, green, and white wires. I assume that a power cord attaches here -- is that correct?

It reminded me of my former electric dryer -- it came with two or three cords and I attached the one with the plug that matched my 220v receptacle. I now have a gas dryer so I have a free socket where the Miele could draw juice.

Or am I wrong about this connection? Where *does* the power cord go into a 1918?

I did take out the detergent tray all the way and peek into the back -- no mold, just detergent residue. And it didn't freeze here until January. I don't think the attached two-car garage, used to store the family's excess stuff and the beer refrigerator, would have gotten below 32 degrees F. Will double check on those little strainer baskets. Are those sold separately, or only with the hose? I know in the past you've stressed how important the strainers are to proper functioning.

Found a Miele dealer in a light industrial area just two miles from our house. DH is going to chat them up about the shipping struts and price a power cord. Then we'll decide whether to pay an electrician to convert our old three-prong 220v receptacle to a 4-prong NEMA-30 or whether we should go with a Miele converter for a three-prong socket (I understand they're available).

Once we gather this data, we'll decide if we're going to buy the 1918. If we do, we'd see if bro-in-law would lend us his little trailer and would rent a heavy-duty appliance dolly.

If we don't buy it, I'll let you know so you can swoop on it! I think I might live within 300 miles of you.

I think I might be a bit more concerned about how the machine was moved up from a basement without the shipping struts in place. While Miele washers are very sturdily built, if the machine was simply placed on a two-wheeled dolly, tilted to one side, then bounced up a flight of stairs -- there is potential for damage. A lot depends on how careful the movers were.

At the very least, I'd want to inspect the inside of the machine for obvious damage to the suspension. To do that you can open the FRONT of the machine. To my knowledge, the back does not open. These machines are designed to be serviced from the front or top.

To open the front, remove the detergent drawer. On either side of the detergent drawer opening you will see two torx screw heads. Remove both screws. Open the glass washer door (the door can be opened manually by pulling down on the manual release cord located behind the filter housing door at the bottom left of the machine) and you will see three 10mm hex bolts. Remove them. Open the front washer panel by swinging it from left to right (it's hinged on the right).

Although, probably unnecessary, if you want to remove the top of the washer, too -- remove the two screws on either side of the top. Pull the lid forward. Lift up the front of the lid and slide it to the rear of the appliance. Lift the lid from the appliance. To replace it, reverse the procedure.

When closing the front of the washer, ensure that the manual door release cord is routed through the slot in the filter housing assembly so that it's accessible.

If you decide to purchase the machine, you can probably move the machine without the struts in place if you're very careful and you don't have to negotiate stairs. When lifing the machine, try not to tilt it. Get several strong guys to lift it, these machines are very heavy. While transporting it, avoid abrupt stops and rapid cornering. As long as you're careful and don't have to go up or down stairs on a dolly, you'll be fine. If stairs are involved, than I'd recommend obtaining a set of struts and the strut crossbar.

I wouldn't worry about a little mold inside the gasket. Just gently scrub the spots with an old tootbrush and a detergent paste. Then run a normal wash cycle with an enzyme based HE detergent at the hottest temperature setting. That should take care of it. Do not use chlorine bleach.

James --

Thank you for the great details, especially the step-by-step on how to take a gander on the insides.

Could you tell me what "obvious damage to the suspension" might look like?

I too recently bought a used w1918. I got it for $200!! Sorry didn't mean to boast. I checked with Miele and they quoted the struts at approx 80.00 including shipping, but it would take a few days.

I didn't have time to purchase the shipping struts as the contractor just wanted it out the door immediately.

It sat on a flimsy dolly, was tilted at 20 degree angles up and down 2 long steep flights of stairs, into a mini van and bounced through pot holed streets of NYC.

The detergent dispenser was caked in mold, the insides stank and the plug didn't match my outlet.

We purchased a replacement plug for about $25, DH is handy and just consulted with Home Depot and off he went.

We plugged it in, I scrubbed off the obvious grime with bleach, ran it through a bleach cycle and the machine worked like a charm and I breathed a sigh of relief.

Unfortunately its now stored until we complete renovations to our home. But I can't wait to get it working again.

A day earlier I had ordered the new miele w4840 and I couldn't cancel the order as it was shipped already. But I couldn't pass up a $200 dollar miele. I love both machines, they are both solid....but they are definitely different and I feel they complement each other. Given the fact that the washes take up to 4x longer than a dryer cycle, I figured I couldn't lose with 2 washing machines to 1 dryer especially as my loads are getting larger as my boys grow into larger size clothing.

After my neptune washer died and I spent 3 weeks using the machines at the laundromat that ruined my clothes. And yes they were front loaders, I didn't want to be in that predicament again. So I bought my new washer based on the longevity of Miele name and I got an extra one as back up!!

I can't wait to hook up my w1918 again. I was inspired to have 2 machines after reading Molly's posts. Thanks Molly!

Anyway, I just wanted to share.

Here's the description of the electrical connection: It's on the lower left of the back of the machine (as you stand behind it.) just below the cut-in from the main back panel. It is covered with a screwed-on white plastic box and the cord is further secured to the machine with a separate white plastic clip. If you can see the connection point, you'll need an appropriate cord, plus the plastic cover and the clip. Personally I'd buy those pieces from Miele, but get the correct socket from an electrical supply house. The 200V service must be correct in all technical details (wire guage, phase, ground etc., in addition to the right voltage). If you're not comfortable doing that, then an electrician is necessary and he can get the correct socket.

You can buy the little strainer baskets from Miele (they're cheap), and it might be a good idea to get an extra one or two since it's pretty easy to pierce them if you have occasion to de-mount them for some reason.

I agree with Jerrod about treating the move carefully, but I am not terribly worried about the bounces from handcarting up the stairs, etc. I've own Mieles much longer than I've been on the forum, and moved them around on handcarts up and down stairs, (by myself which considering the weight of the machine is pretty much a "clean and jerk" type bounce up and over each tread) and I never even knew about the concerns regarding the shipping bolts before I read about them here. I have always reinserted them for long distance cargo shipping (like to and from South America), but don't routinely use them when shipping upright on trucks within the US. And I've never had any damage while moving them on handcarts or trucking, so I think you'll be OK.

Molly~

Parrot,

I'm not an expert, but I'd look for obvious signs of distress. Dents or scrapes on any internal components, the wash drum looking askew, things like that.

The only reason I know first hand how to open the front is that when I moved my washer from California to Washington, I had a great deal of difficulty reinserting the shipping struts. Miele sent me explicit instructions on how to open the washer front to facilitate reinserting the struts.

They told me that moving the machine carefully for short distances shouldn't cause any problems, as long as it was kept as level as possible. On the other hand, they also specifically cautioned against moving the washer up or down stairs on a dolly without the struts in place. I'm assuming they know what they're talking about.

Not to contradict Molly again, but the power cord on my model 1918 feeds into the RIGHT side of the machine as you face the back of the washer.

I own two Miele 1918 washers in two different homes. One is a vintage 1994 or 95 machine. The other dates from 2001 or 02. The older model uses a smaller 4-prong plug and cord set (I don't remember the number). The newer model uses a standard NEMA 14-30 plug. I really don't think that will make any difference to you. A NEMA 14-30 cord set should work on your machine whatever the vintage. Regardless of year of manufacture, however, a model W1918 requires a 220V 15 amp circuit.

James

When I got my used Miele 1918 several years ago, I tipped it right over onto its side, slid it into the back of my Toyota RAV4, drove 15 miles home, slid it out, connected it up and it has been running great ever since.

Mold? Run a Cotton 180 cycle with "water plus" and some rags and a stong dose of OxiClean. Buh-bye mold! (I'm surprised no one suggested this yet!)

My only concern for you is that you connect it up properly. I myself would splurge for a transformer box, but if you can get the correct electrical wiring for a separate outlet, go for it! That would leave your 30 amp dryer outlet free for an American dryer or for you other Miele.

Jerrod, I think we're not in disagreement because I said it was on the lower left "as you stand behind the machine", not as you face the back from the front.

And I just checked, again, if you stand behind my washer, my power cord comes out of the bottom left on the back. To be double sure I unplugged it and snaked the cord back to the machine to check as I have a couple of machines plugged side by side into a bank of sockets.

It makes sense for it to be there as that is the opposite side from the water entrances and exit so it would give added geographical separation from moisture.

Molly~

Molly

In your previous posts I think you mean James instead of me! :)

Cool. A love story made in heaven. Maybe you can shoot us to pics. Enjoy.

You don't need anything but a ffew hose Y's to run then simultaneusly, especially since you only need to connect the 1918 to the cold line.

IN MY SET UP I HAVE THE COLD LINE Y'D AND ONE LEG RUNS TO AN aSKO COLD-FILL ONLY MACHINE AND THE SECONG LEG IS Y'D AGAIN AND GOES TO THE HOT AND COLD LINES ON THE mIE,ES. Sorry for caps, I am noy using my machine and sitting in the dark with unfamiliar keY bd.

YOU MAY NEED TWO-HORNED STAND PIPE THOUGH
glad you like it,

Will happily answer questions. Saw your query re Asko and thought you were going to gt one of those too. Are we twins?

Molly

Woo-hoo, Molly, great idea about attaching the Miele only to the cold water tap. Can we say, "True profile wash"?

I don't have a standpipe. I have one of those enormous concrete laundry sinks with dual tubs. The outflow hoses hook over the side and discharge into the sink. My old GE TL (with the filter-flo pan) used so much water that the sink filled up half-way as the machine drained. With either FL, the discharge flows down the drain with no backup.

We're almost twins. I'm an Asko Auntie. My delighted BIL just emailed me this pithy line: "The Askos are Awesome."

OK, this weekend, DH installed a splitter on the cold water tap. The 1918 is attached only to the cold water.

But I found it won't fill on the warm or hot cycles while connected only to the cold tap. I then started a cold cycle, babysat it through the fill, and, a little less than three minutes into the cycle, switched it to a hot cycle. The water definitely got heated.

I just hope enough water got into the tub -- though my towels weren't particularly dirty.

Does the cold-fill-only configuration only work on machines designed to be cold fill only?

I'll get by until we can buy another splitter for the hot water tap. I love the 1918's time delay with the heated wash!

Nope, I run warm-to-hot cycles all the time and mine is only connected to the cold water line.

This is very peculiar and I would like to figure out what you're seeing. The apparent problem was with the fill, not with the heater, right? But it filled when you only called for a cold wash. Very curious.....!

I'm pretty sure that all 1918's can be configured to cold fill only.

This is probably a really silly question, but when you had the splitter on you did have water supplying both inlets, not just the cold one? The splitter has to run from the cold line to both inlet ports in order for the machine to operate correctly.

Or did the machine simply not take in any water from one leg of the splitter? That puzzles me. Are all four of your incoming water line filters clean?

If you have another machine that needs hot water you'll need to connect it directly to the hot water line, then attach a splitter to the cold water line. One leg goes to your non-Miele machine's cold inlet, but then the other leg is split again and each of those legs is connected to the Miele. So you'll have to have two splitters to accomplish this.

My set-up with Miele and Asko machines is like this:

Cold water line attached to the first splitter, then one leg of the first splitter is split again and each of the two legs of the second splitter is attached to an incoming water line on the Miele. The second leg of the first splitter (still with me?) is attached to the Asko which has only one (cold) inlet.

I also love the delay wash option, but find it important when doing a delayed wash to make sure the detergent tray is perfectly dry before putting the detergent in. If it's damp the detergent (I use powder) can get sticky and then not fully dump in the wash phase, causing poor rinsing when it finally dissolves in the rinses. I had never had a delay feature but find it much more useful than I imagined. I usually have a load set to finish when I get up; I find it jump starts the day's chores nicely.

I'm pretty sure your machine can be set up like mine, we just need to figure it out.

Molly~

Thanks, Molly, your expertise with Mieles -- and the 1918 in particular -- has solved the mystery. Thank you.

You said: >>The splitter has to run from the cold line to both inlet ports in order for the machine to operate correctly.*That's* the problem.

Right now, my cold water spigot has the splitter. One leg is attached to the Miele cold water inlet hose, the second to the FridGEmore cold water hose. The hot tap is attached to the FridGEmore's hot water hose.

The Miele's hot water line is connected to NOTHING.

So the 1918 was waiting for water to come in through the hot water hose. It must need to have water (hot, cold, or other) entering the machine through the hot port for a hot cycle.

So, to resolve this, we either need to get a Y-connector for the hot spigot or install a second splitter on the cold water.

THANK YOU.

BTW, at your recommendation, DH & I checked the hose screens when we installed the 1981. They are fine.

What laundromanical bliss it was to have both machines running at once this weekend. I finished laundry in record time. I opted for the FridGEmore to wash a big load of lightly soiled shirts.

All you need is a second splitter on the cold line then you can hitch the Miele up to (double) cold and the Frigemore to half cold and half hot, or as you say, you can split each line and have hot and cold feeds for both. I am not sure if you will get a true profile wash with hot and cold feed to the Miele, but either way with two splitters you can have a set-up anyway you want. (You can even feed your Miele from a garden hose line Y-d off at the end. My summer laundry water comes from an artesian spring -amazing soft water that's a joy to have- and we just run it to the machines in a garden hose.)

Have fun with your 1918!

Molly~

Molly --

Running machines off a garden hose! : ^ )

You give me such ideas. I bet I could snake a hose from my rain barrel to the Miele once this drought is over.

Having fun,

P_Ph

Yes, you could but it's likely your rain barrel has poor quality water, not from the softness aspect but from the likelihood of bacterial contamination and algal growth. Of course you're not going to drink your laundry water, but it still could contribute to a build-up of nasties in your machine.

When I lived in the tropics with my Mieles we collected our laundry water in closed roof-top cisterns but I was always careful to routinely shock them with chlorox to avoid that issue. And once a year or so we pumped them dry and scrubbed and aired them for a week. My current laundry water is "wild" spring water meaning it just bubbles up from the ground in a tile enclosure so it's not really up to potable standards. However it's not kept above ground for very long so the cool temps inhibit bacterial colonies. A rain barrel can get pretty nasty, plus it collects all the dirt and contaminants that are washed off your roof.

Once I did use swimming pool water in the Mieles when we had a serious drought. I thought washing clothes was way more important that the pool. In that instance I ran the machines from a sump pump connected to hoses which, in turn were connected to the machines.

Another useful thing about feeding from a Y'd-off garden hose is that some people have whole house water conditioners that sometimes cause excess sudsing in FL washers. Apparently whole house conditioners often have pre-conditioner hose connections (so you're not using the chemicals to water your garden). In that instance you can connect the washing machine to the hose service and get non-conditioned water if that's what you want.

Have you discovered how to play games with your pre-set cycles, yet?

Molly~

Well, it's just as well that DH wants the rain barrel water for the trees we planted in the spring. We've been babying them through the E. Coast drought this summer.

I'm so glad that we got the owner's manual -- it has the the game-playing options all laid out. I've used the programming once -- reminds me of how I programmed a replacement remote for the car (open the driver's door twice in five seconds, then turn on the lights, etc.). Cool beans!

You and my dad would have been sympatico. He would not have hesitated to lower *his* sump pump into that pool to water his ginormous vegetable garden. He caught runoff from our roof in an old, cracked, underground, concrete cistern so he did not have to draw potable water from our well for the garden. Our neighbors had an identical, properly maintained cistern they used for drinking & other household use. The wife used to drain it and scrub down with a brush and Chlorox every year.

Mom saved Dad's muddy gardening clothes for the last load, which was washed in water she'd recycled at least twice through the the "suds saver" of her trusty Fridgidaire. That machine had an agitator that bounced up and down.