"This engine is a 2 year old shortblock" "I took the carb apart and let it soak in SeaFoam overnight" OK, shortblock has nothing to do with a dirty old plugged up carb. You stated this was a gravity feed carb. so it still dirty, it an't gravity feeding enough to start on it own. Soaking over night with sea foam is not enough. You have to use Pressurized solvent that contains, acrtone, xylene, ketone just to name a few, this will enable it to break apart and blast the gum or tarnish through the small passages of the carb. (pressurized carb. cleaner was specific designed to do the job, even comes with a little red nozzle to stick right on the small passages to blow out, USE SAFETY GOGGLES cause if you don't get it lined up it will blow back in you face!, I would also read all the instructions and warnings on the can before I used it!)And you still probably need to use a fine piece of wire to ensure you unblock the fine metered curcuits throughout the intards of the carb. Soaking was an old method which used harsh chemicals that would melt away anything but metal and some time even soft metal as well if you left it in long enough. These chemicals are too dangerous and were outlawed back in the early 80's for use shade tree mechanic's if I remember correctly. If you know how to prime and it don't stay running the carb. is STILL dirty or GUMMED up.

Hi Daniel, I think it would be easier to figure out why the lettuce is not doing well inside and then correct that. Trying to transplant lettuce outside this early during a winter in which we're having recurring ice/snow storms and below-average temperatures would be less likely to be successful even with the use of 2-liter plastic bottles as cloches. To grow lettuce indoors under lights, you need to keep the lights so close to the lettuce plants that the lights and lettuce almost touch. Having the lights any higher than that will cause the lettuce to stretch and get leggy, which is what I assume you're referring to when you describe your lettuce as 'wimpy'. I have found that lettuce grown indoors benefits from having the grow lights left on 24/7, which is not true of most other vegetable seedlings grown indoors. I generally give most indoor seedings between 12 and 16 hours of light indoors but lettuce needs more. If you can, try to keep the room where your light shelf is slightly cool....maybe around 60 degrees. Lettuce grown indoors under lights can grow too fast too quickly in a very warm room. As far as transplanting lettuce outside in the cold winter weather and covering the plant with 2-liter bottle cloches, my best guess is that it is unlikely to be very successful. You'd have better success with a larger cold frame or a low tunnel (PVC supports bent into U-shaped hoops and covered with clear 4 to 6 mm plastic) that would shelter the young lettuce plants from the wind, frosts and freezing temps. The problem with plastic cloches is that they can be blown off the plants by a strong wind and plastic doesn't hold heat very well. You can use 2-liter bottles and milk jugs as a cloche over seeds that have been winter-sown and they usually work quite well for that purpose because they protect the plants from wind insects and animals so the seeds can sprout. They also help trap a little heat and that might keep the seed/soil slightly warmer than unprotected seed. With lettuce that already has sprouted and is growing, though, the 2-liter bottle cloches are likely to hold too little heat at night to keep the lettuce plants above 25-28 degrees and they are likely to have that greenhouse effect occurring on sunny days. As you lettuce grows in size, any part of the lettuce that touches the plastic cloches during times when temps are below about 28 degrees likely will suffer cold damage. A small cold frame is better than no cold frame. However the issue with any sort of season extender is that small ones are harder to heat/cool evenly and it is much easier to keep the temps at the right temperature with larger ones. The same thing is true of greenhouses....very small ones can overheat much more quickly than larger ones. I personally wouldn't attempt to put a heater of any sort in a cold frame if any part of the cold frame is combustible for rather obvious reasons. To make a long story short, I'd just say that my husband and son both are certified professional firefighters( DH is also a certified peace officer and actually works as a public safety officer) and we all three belong to our local volunteer fire department---and you simply would never believe how many structure fires are started by small heaters in confined spaces including small dog houses and poultry coops. Even heaters with thermostats (and thermostats can malfunction too) can heat up a small area fairly quickly and cause combustible material to burst into flame. I asked my son his opinion of putting a heater in a 3' x 3' x 1' cold frame and he said he considered it a risky move and he wouldn't do it. If I was in your situation right now and keeping the young lettuce plants indoors under grow lights were not an option, I'd put them in a unheated cold frame or in a hot bed (essentially a deeper cold frame where the lowest layer of 'soil' is fresh manure that releases heat as it decomposes). If in a cold frame, I'd spray paint the 2-liter bottles black, fill them with hot water to start out with, and place them on their side in the cold frame so their longest sides are exposed to the most sunlight and I'd use them as solar collectors. The water-filled bottles will collect heat during the day and release it at night as they cool. Even with a cold frame, you need to have a self-opening vent to allow the top to 'pop open' if the sunlight heats it up to a certain poing or you need to manually open the cold frame every morning and close it every evening unless the daytime temperatures are going to remain very cold all day long. Long-range forecast models show that our part of the country is likely to have another bad round of winter weather in February, perhaps as early as late next week, so planting early is quite a risk based on the current weather conditions, the Feb. forecast models and the knowledge that most parts of OK have had significantly colder than average temps this winter. There have been some years I've pushed the limits and planted early because the weather conditions have consistently been warmer than average, and you often can get away with early planting in a year like that. This is not a year like that. Dawn

Isn't this kind of work fun? The only time you can measure and test for the problem is while it's happening. Any other time that the car actually starts, everything you test will be "spot on" as you put it. Which is a reference to the most likely suspect for your mothers car's symptom. Low fuel pressure I.E. a bad pump. These things will not start with 54PSI of fuel pressure, they must achieve 56PSI! Your gage has to be accurate within 1PSI in that range to actually see this occuring. The thing is, hitting this with a little ether (I prefer propane) will give it some fuel to burn and increase manifold vacuum, and often times allows the car to start, because the vacuum actually helps open the poppet injectors. The poppet injectors are why this thing needs a minimum of 56PSI to start. Other things to consider. "Spark volume" I know you replaced secondary ignition, did you clean the breathers in the base of the distributor? They tend to clog, and then crankcase gasses will collect in the distributor causing corrosion, and then the spark will short to ground inside the distributor. Fuel: It takes more than just fuel pressure to ensure the engine is getting fuel. The injector must be triggered on by the PCM. I have had the two wire connector between the engine harness and the injector corrode and cause a loss of injector command. Plus you need to have a good crank signal trigger to not only tell the computer to drive the injector, but to command the module to trigger the coil. Tell me, when the car acts up. Key on, you hear the pump run for two seconds. Start cranking the engine, do you hear the pump turn back on? This would tell me if the PCM sees the signal from the crank sensor.

I don't understand the question baymee? One thing though, never jumper the terminals on a gas valve,,,instant kapoot!