In the heat of the mid south you can usually skip spraying unless the night time temperatures drop below 80. 80 however is only a general rule of thumb. During our last heat wave in the upper 90's, I skipped spraying even though the night time temps hovered around 78 to 79. Only one rose developed a minimal amount of B.S. and it's very prone to that disease (and will probably be replaced). I use Banner Maxx during high summer because it can go 3 weeks without repeat if conditions are relatively dry. I use Indicate 5 along with all my spray materials. Recently a rainy spell was predicted so I had to gear up to spray even though the front hadn't moved in yet and the temps/humidity were still high. I sprayed late in the evening when it finally dropped down to 89 degrees. The roses had been well watered beforehand. I did see some minimal damage to some of the rose leaves from burn, but it was certainly nothing like the BS I would have had during this period if I hadn't sprayed at all. Pick your poison so to speak. I always think about what Mike in Louisianna says about spraying, but the few times I've sprayed when it was in the 90's I'm sorry to report that I did have at best moderate damage. But maybe there were other differences in our situation.

I have about 3 dealers around the same price. They vary in different ways. 2 dealers include the Trane rebate, 1 is not in the rebate program yet as he is new. He said that he is reducing his price to compensate for it until he gets into the program-he is one I quoted the prices from. On my most recent email to him very late last night, I asked him, "I heard you about the Trane rebate program but let me know if it goes through, wouldn't it save you money as well?" I haven't received a reply yet. Was the prices mentioned good? Concerning the tax credit, One company has it in its estimate but I am keeping it separate. I want to compare apples to apples. The other two don't put it in their estimate because it is up to me to follow through on it. Interestingly, the "A" rated company from the BBB is the one that includes it in the estimate, The "B-" and the new company don't. All the companies (about 7-10) said that they clean out the lines. Only one, the "B-" company replaces them. I wished the average temps were true. One thing about this area is the humidity. It is dripping. Again, Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.

your best bet in this situation is to hire someone yourself to check out the system and give you an honest answer. If you check craigslist, you'll find guys offering to do "check ups" for $50-100 - just make it clear that you want a full inspection with line pressures, subcool/superheat delta-T and static pressure readings documented in writing on the repair order. Tell them before they come out that you aren't interested in a new system, just in getting the unit back to factory specs. Something is definitely wrong, and it's likely an inexpensive fix if you can get someone to actually break out their tools and check the system properly. Don't let them talk you into a new system, and don't believe the warranty company's lapdog. Google the warranty company's name to see what you're dealing with, most have terrible reviews.

Dude..what is all the debate for? Your choice is real easy. Get the Carrier Infinity 17 SEER system, 4 ton and get an attic ventilator (powered) which will drastically reduce the heat load on your living space on the second story. Add about 6 inches of insulation in your second story attic. By doing the above you will: (1) save a few bucks by not getting the Infinity 21 (which isn't really 21 SEER anyway except for one model with a matched coil 2 ton if you look at the ratings on the Carrier site) (2) Qualify for a FEDERAL TAX CREDIT for adding insulation and ANOTHER federal tax credit for purchasing a high efficiency HVAC system with an "advanced fan" (ECM blower) Also Carrier has a rebate through select dealers right now and/or your utility company may have incentives too! (3) You will be getting a positively superb, "best money can buy" system with 4 tons of cooling for the really hot days, 2 tons for milder days (4) Unmatched humidity control. This unit has no less than 42 patents on it. I installed the Infinity system myself w/ air cleaner, uv lights, and infinity furnace in a house that I sold and I think this system was the best product I ever owned. Also, as an aside here unrelated to your air conditioning woes---did you know you could couple that Infinity unit or your other air conditioning unit to a desuperheater which will heat all the hot water you could use for free? (check out trevor-martin.com)--Also, you would effectively raise your SEER rating to about 20-23 and literally turn off your hot water heater because that Infinity unit (or your other condensing unit) can use waste heat which would normally be expelled into the air to heat 80 or more gallons of hot water per day? This unit would cost about $700-$1000 installed (perhaps more if you have a long run to your water heater). As long as that upstairs AC is running, you would be producing free hot water, increasing the efficiency and life of your condensing unit, reducing the head pressure on your compressor, AND lowering your electric bill in the process. For six months a year you could literally turn your water heater off! This unit would pay for itself in energy savings rather quickly. (I would be willing to bet you are running the AC upstairs in the spring and fall too at times bc I am sure it is hot up there even when it isn't hot outside) However, you may find that this desuperheater would be better to add to your other condensing unit with R-22 refrigerant which has much higher discharge temperatures (produces more hot water). The 410-A systems have higher pressure but lower discharge temperatures. If you do get a desuperheater and add it to your new Infinity system--make sure you get the unit which is rated for 410-a (Trevor Martin makes such a unit specifically designed for 410-a/Puron). Ask a knowledgeable contractor. He or she can tell you what is right for your specific situation. bottom line--Your outlay for desuperheater and new infinity system, insulation and power vent==$11,000.00 Tax credits and rebates may reduce your "net cost" to $9500. Benefit gained--free hot water 6 months or more per year AND 72 degree second story with 50% relative humidity with 100 degree outdoor temp! A typical increase in efficiency of your a/c system with desuperheater installed and running is 10-15%. You can expect an energy cost savings over your present equipment by about 1/3 or so (without factoring in the desuperheater) Typical cost to add that much insulation to your attic--50-60 cents per square foot. Typical cost for a power attic ventilator (installed) $250-$400. You can insulate your attic yourself with a free rental of the blower from any Home Depot store. All you have to do is leave a refundable $500 deposit via cash or credit card. Present cost for the insulation itself is about $9.00 for every 40 square feet. You would need about 50 bags which would cost about $425-$450. Or you can have a contractor do it for about $900.00 +/- The other thing you MAY want to consider is getting a geothermal heat pump system. It would cost about $12,000 installed but it would have a built-in desuperheater which could heat your hot water for you year round. Carrier makes such a unit that uses puron refrigerant with a two speed compressor that can have SEER ratings of up to 31 in some cases. Typical installation is a little slower but it can generally be accomplished in 1-3 days. Hope this helps and good luck!