Toni, The steam is hot when it come out of the cleaner, but as it hits the air it cools rapidly, so I guess 10-14 inches would be far enough away to use on plants, but it seems like a waste of distilled water. You're looking at about $40-50 for a hand held one. It is worth it if you consider all the chemicals you'd be saving money on. I used to use it on my toilet I hate scrubbing toilets. Albert, you are using distilled water aren't you? DW will probably have a fit if you don't.

Thanks, all. I've narrowed down my confusion to the question: when does one plant the culinary Allium family and when does one harvest them? Are they annuals or perennials or biennial? Seeds vs. plants? I get conflicting info. Plant Onion seeds in Spring, but plant Garlic bulbils in Fall. I've decided to go to the library and get a good book on the subject, but meanwhile it's an interesting thread. I hope to get a good understanding of the Allium family lifecycle/big picture, so I can weigh my options. For instance, what would happen if I cut the top off a grocery store red onion and planted it? Well, I tried it, and it's growing! Sounds better than planting from seed, but is definately unorthodox from what I've gathered (or not gathered) so far.

Imabirdnut, All of us started out as newbies! Your Common MW will most likely come back next year. I have a volunteer milkweed that was here when we moved in--don't know the kind--that has been mowed down so many times I thought it was a goner. But I noticed the other day that it is coming back! Last year it didn't come up at all, and it is just now popping through this year. So, with the root systems on MW, you just never know. Winter sowing is great, but I need to control when the seeds will come up as I sell plants at the local Farmer's Market. As to type of sand, you can use the playground sand or purchase it in smaller bags for cactus, both available at Lowes. I have much better luck with sand than with perlite. You don't need but about a fourth to a half cup for each type of seed. I put the sand in a small baggy, add the seeds, and add about an eighth to a fourth teaspoon of water--just enough to moisten the sand so it will stick together when you squeeze it and separate a bit when you shake the bag. Write date and type of seed on the outside of the baggy. I store the small baggies with similar seeds requiring the same period of cold in big baggies. I may end up with several bags of small baggies labeled with the stratification time. You can stratify longer than required, but shortening time usually keeps seeds from germinating. I actually have some seeds that have been in cold storage for almost a year. Once you remove the baggies from the fridge, leave them at room temp and check daily for germination. It usually happens within a few days. Then just follow the rest of the procedure I outlined above for planting. Sandy

Raven, What kind of mix are you using? When I get cuttings, I typically put them in a mix with equal parts coir and perlite, or 1/3 each coir, perlite and orchid bark. I keep them pretty moist until I'm sure they're rooted. Right now, I'm rooting a purpueo-fusca that's only node was where the only leaves were, with a stem below that that's about 8" long. I cut it back to about 5" and put it in a pot and I pulled it out today and see some roots forming at the very end of the stem. It's been 16 days since I put it in the medium (which did include the orchid bark this time...) The baggie method isn't very reliable for me. I seem to nearly always get mold before I get roots. Have you tried a "rooting pot", having several cuttings in one pot? Or rooting in with already established plants? You'll find something that works for you with time. Don't be too frustrated... You'll be an old pro at this in a few years! That's not to say it'll TAKE you a few years to figure it out - I just mean YOU will be the one giving advice before long! Denise in Omaha