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Not sure what to do with patch hardwood floor

9 years ago

We need some help. My husband and I did a kitchen renovation that included removing a kitchen island that left a part of our floor without wood. We had the floors put in 12 years ago and sanded and refinished 2 years ago. My husband wanted to try and do the patch job himself. He got the same wood (select red oak) and put it down. Then yesterday he rented a sander and sanded the area. The man that did the floors two years ago left us some stain which my husband put down. But as you can see from the picture there must've been something wet on the floor because there's dark spots. My first question is do we need to totally re sand again before we can put more stain on? And also the flooring guy told me he used glitsa multikote in satin. How do I get this? Please any suggestions would really be appreciated!

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Comments (5)

gregmills_gw
9 years ago
Just want make sure im looking at the correct spot. Is the lighter spot the area youre husband patched and staind?

A number of things can cause the shade difference. For example if you finished your sanding sequence with a different grit than the pro used you can get a color difference.

Did your floor pro water pop the floor before staining ? That would also cause the difference.

You have some blotchy darker spots in the area.

Its best to find those answers first and then i would resand your patch and start fresh.

As far as the glista product, ask youre floor guy if you can buy some from him. Or you could find a hardwood distributor or try online for the finish.
campfiregal61
Original Author
9 years ago
Hi, thanks, yes the large area of lighter stain is the patch my husband did with one coat of stain. He used an orbital sander. My floor guy used something else and I'm sure he finished up with different grit. I just don't know why it is so light. And if you can zoom in on the picture there are 3 issues of concerns 1. Overall too light. 2.dark blotch area, 3. Dark small circles closer to cabinet (possibly water?). So you are saying the only option is to sand all the way down again? To get a bare floor? And then should I water pop? No my floor guy did not water pop. And as far as the glitsa, is this available to a "lay" person? Thanks. I honestly did not think this would be such a problem!!!
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You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood.
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gregmills_gw
9 years ago
Your pro probably finished with a 100g maybe 120. But he didnt use an oribital.

Resand the area back to barewood and besure that no water or anything touches the floor before staining. Especially sweat.

If you can grab a piece of 100g sand paper and before you apply stain. Hand sand the area with that paper. Orbitals sanding and pro sanding do different things.

Then i would stain just a small area and see if its close enough to a match. If not then resand and try water popping the area. That may do it. Its better to have it be a tad off then way off. You likely wont get it perfect. Age is a factor even though its only been a couple yrs.

If you go to a hw distributor you might get some flack but if your pro floor guy wint sell it to you then go online. Theres no special permits or licenses you need in order to purchase or use it.
glennsfc
9 years ago
Good answers!
campfiregal61
Original Author
9 years ago
Thanks for the help!! We have to go out of town for a few days will work on it when we return and post follow ups, thanks for the help!!

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