Tile Threshold between Bathroom and Hardwood floor - 1/2" reducer
hokiemulla
9 years ago
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hokiemulla
9 years agohokiemulla
9 years agoRelated Discussions
whoooo....has hardwood floors in the bathroom?
Comments (17)The 1918 house that we grew up with had hardwood floors throughout. When our parents renovated, they pulled up the 3 layers of linoleum in kitchen and bath, only to discover that the wood, while now stable and dried out, had been so stained by moisture and other things, that it was not salvagable. The condition of the wood in the bathroom was horrible. In front of the toilet was just the grossest thing possible. And in front and under the tub, it was black black mildew under all of that linoleum and the floor was spongy soft under it. The wood floors had to come up entirely in the bathroom, as the moisture damaged their structural integrity and went on to damage the joists as well, thus the sponginess and flex. It involved major reconstruction. And, this was on a crawlspace home where the moisture can more easily "drain away" down through the cracks into the crawlspace. On a slab, where the moisture has no place to go but sit there and rot, wood floors wouldn't have lasted 3 years. And in front of the toilet would have looked really gross. I'm sorry, but most men can't aim, and the "overspray" just doesn't come off of wood like it will tile. And modern bathtubshower combos don't contain the water as well as the old clawfoots did with their high sides and no one raining down water from a height to create a mist of spray escaping. Wood in a kitchen and bath is a horrible idea. Unless you have money to burn when it goes wrong, steer clear. Because a kitchen and bath is about dealing with water, and it's only a matter of "when" NOT "if" the wood in a wet room will get damaged....See MoreHeight difference between hardwood and marble floor-solutions?
Comments (1)You can also chamfer the edge of the hardwood. Probably easier than chamfering the marble unless it is a small chamfer. A larger chamfer over a portion of the threshold is common for differences as small as 1/4 inch. The threshold is simply turned into a small ramp to ease the transition and eliminate any edges....See MoreKitchen floor 1in black hex tile or herringbone 1.75in hardwood
Comments (9)Dear Alex, First, thanks so much the link to your inspiration kitchen. I love the kitchen (it immediately became my new inspiration kitchen as well!) And thanks for introducing me to the houseandhome website. It a beautifully done website that I'm sure I'll return to again and again. I look forward to others giving their more informed advice (than mine) on your flooring suggestions. We have the original hardwood in our 1928 kitchen and I think it adds to the period-look of our kitchen. You'll find dozens and dozens of examples of kitchens posted on garden web of similar "Victorian feel" to early 20th-century kitchens with wood floors. We put a lot of wear on our floors (but no seriously high heels) and I think the patina the floors take on only adds to their character. But the tile is also a great look and certainly feels more "european," if you want the Parisian bistro look similar to your inspiration kitchen. Some people find tile a little hard on the joints as they age. If you are spending hours standing in the kitchen, depending on your age, this might be something to consider. On the other hand, there is nothing more satisfying than the solidity of a tile floor and the ability to give it a good scrub. I will say that having lived for six years in a 1980s-style kitchen with a white tile floor when I had two small children, I would not do white tile again (I love to clean, but I don't want to mop twice a day!) Either choice would look great in a victorian/vintage kitchen with white painted cabinets. We look forward to seeing pictures of your kitchen -- sounds like it will be gorgeous!...See MoreBamboo, Engineered Hardwood, or Carpet for 2nd Floor Bedrooms? Noise
Comments (8)In one word: Cork. Cork can be found in a floating floor plank. It comes in thicknesses between 10mm and 15mm (10.5mm - 12mm is common). I would figure out how HIGH the carpet stood and how much clearance the door has and work with those numbers. For instance, if your door has a snick more than 3/4" clearance, I would find a 10.5 or 11mm thick cork floating plank (7/16") and ADD 6mm cork underlayment (1/4") so that the TOTAL floor height is roughly 3/4" tall. Do that for ALL areas. I would then go ahead and add (so long as the cork allows it) a coat or two of protective finish like Loba 2K Supra AT. This coating adds SCRATCH resistance AND slip resistance (it has some of the best anti-slip ratings on the market). It ALSO adds moisture resistance...such as when a leaking pet (or human...spills happen) accidently loses control, the finish on top will prevent permanent damage to the planks. The cork will mimic the carpet absorption. Not quite perfect but very very close. You will still hear the deep thud of HARD footsteps (like thumping out of bed in a huff...whhhhhhaaaaaaat???Teenage girls NEVER do THAAAT ;-P www.icorkfloor.com Have a look. It can't hurt. If nothing else, it gives you a GREAT place to purchase 6mm or 12mm cork underlay for laminate. LVP does NOT like underpad. LVP will mimic what you hear RIGHT NOW. It doesn't like underpad. So much so that most Condo boards do NOT allow LVP in living areas because of noise complaints....See Morewannabegardnr
9 years agohokiemulla
9 years agohokiemulla
9 years agopcweary
9 years ago
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