Using Floor Muffler on 3/4 solid hardwood on plywood subfloor
herbolaryo
17 years ago
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jerry_t
17 years agoRelated Discussions
need to raise subfloor 1/4 for hardwood install
Comments (2)I plan on using 1/4" 4x8 sheet of luan plywood for my very similar project....See MoreCan 3/4' Oak Hardwood floor be put over OSB?
Comments (52)In regards to using OSB, I have the following comment: I am a structural engineer in California, and I have specified OSB as a subfloor, roof sheathing & shear wall sheathing for hundreds of homes. As far as an underlayment for hardwood floors, there appears to be two issues. 1) is the floor structurally sound for hardwood, and 2) whether attaching the hardwood directly to OSB will result in nail slippage many years down the road. I have comments on both issues. As far as the floor being structurally sound, I have seen a few posts on this issue & I am not one to automatically say that hardwood should be placed perpendicular to the floor joists... But it would definitely be stronger and may help in easily repairing the hardwood attachment if the nails should slip many years down the road. I myself have placed the hardwood parallel to the floor joist because my subfloor is very stiff. To get a stiff floor, this is my recommendations: joist spacing should not exceed 16"o.c.; floor joist span should be designed conservatively (building code minimum is not conservative), and floor sheathing should be 3/4" nominal and placed with the face grain (long dimension) perpendicular to the joist & staggered. In regards to item 2: some national floor associations have said direct OSB attachment is acceptable as long as sheathing is PS2 standard & 23/32" minimum. That is all we can go by. As I mentioned above, let's say the nails do slip after many years... If your hardwood is perpendicular to the joist, couldn't you just screw it down to the joist below as a repair? That is one benefit I can see with placing the hardwood perpendicular to the joist or adding blocking between the joist. In regards to nail slip, I posted a blog regarding using the hardwood nailers that drive the cleats at an angle in the tongue of the hardwood edge. The cleats are locked in place inside the T & G connection. How is this going to lift up? Also when you drive the nail at an angle, there is a vertical bearing component of the nail that is preventing the nails from lifting. This is versus using a brad nailer that goes vertical. The vertical nail would rely totally on friction between the OSB & nail and I can see this possibly slipping down the road....See MoreHardwood flooring project - Particle board subfloor
Comments (1)Yuck particleboard. You have my sympathy. We just went through the exact same thing. We took bids from several flooring co's and contractors. In our opinion, the best solution was the following, and that's what we did. The floor planks are just now being installed and look great: 1. Remove the particleboard using a skilsaw and crowbar. Also remove any felt/paper below it. This took 2 guys less than an hour per 100 square feet. 2. If your subfloor is less than 5/8" plywood, add an additional layer of 5/8" CD/X plywood. Lay it down in the opposite direction of the existing subfloor, glue and screw it, probably into the joists (ask someone about that). We used exterior fir plywood, not advantech or OSB or interior underlayment. This took 2 guys about 3 days to do 1000+ square feet. 3. Install the hardwood planks the standard way. Our contractor said no need for any vapor barrier, for us. I get the idea from experts that paper may have been more useful back when subfloor was 1x6 boards -- it would have given a smoother installation surface and also prevented dust from falling through the floor into whatever was below it. I personally hate particleboard so I advocate removing it. The time-consuming aspects of the overall job are installing the additional plywood and the floor planks -- removing the particleboard is comparatively not much work. If you leave it in, you will have to put at least 5/8" ply on top to conform to wood floor manufacturers' warranty requirements. And that will lower your ceiling height, which may be an issue if you're in a 1960s/70s era house. Plus, a particleboard sandwich on ply just doesn't seem very stable (or nutritious). I'm no expert but I trust my contractor and he has a pristine reputation. Hope this helps!...See More3/4' Solid Hardwood Glue down over concrete
Comments (4)Echo is right. Especially with a dense species this is a crap shoot. And the comment about the slab being dry only applies if you have a good moisture barrier under your slab. What I mean by that is if you take concrete readings and determine your slab is dry that only means it is dry at that time if you don't have a plastic barrier beneath. I've seen a lot of concrete contractors cutting corners and not using it in different markets and they are telling their customers that they have an additive in the concrete that keeps it from wicking moisture from below. I'd be very careful. Either use a product made to be glued to a slab and use a moisture barrier or deal with the height difference and make sure you get a good barrier on top of the slab. My two cents.. realwoodfloors.com...See MoreUser
17 years agofloorman67
17 years agoUser
17 years agofloorman67
17 years agoglennsfc
17 years agoherbolaryo
17 years agoyaknakterry
17 years ago
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