Yes, it does look like an easy method to install flooring. I'm surprised to see maybe even ceramic. Not too sure about that one. It runs $2/sf. In this case it would save quite a bit of labor just on floor prep. There's adhesive on the slab which would otherwise need to be removed. It also provides a moisture barrier so he said solid wood could be used. I believe he even said 3/4 inch. Looking at the installation instructions, it looks to lay loose on the slab. I wonder what it's like to walk on one of these floors. If it feels like a regular wood floor. Another concern I have is how easy it is to replace a board. Or if a board goes crooked while trying to install it and you're already into the adhesive stage if you're stuck with a gap. Particularly worrisome when someone else is doing the install and maybe not as picky as you'd be yourself. The site says it has a worldwide patent but the salesman said that type of product has been used in Europe for over 20 years successfully. It's only new to the US. I'm looking into floating floors due to the adhesive on the slab but don't want a fake hollow sounding floor. The flooring stores I've been to don't seem to have sample floatings installed for people to check them out.

Gregmills, thank you for replying to my post. In 2009, I had several installers take moisture readings and my floor was dry. BUT since 2009, I had the water damage from the water heater on 3-20-13 which damaged the 5" wide BR-111 Brazilian Cherry engineered wood floors which have not been removed and are over the Floor Muffler Ultra pad that they were floated on. I had to buy area rugs as the planks had cracked and lifted. I was waiting to have the insurance claim settled first before removing the floors. My little 6 lb Maltese got her foot caught costing me over $300 with the vet bill, X-rays and pain medicine. Thankfully nothing was broken when she was running and got her foot caught in the floor and was whimpering and carrying on. That is why I bought the inexpensive temporary small area rugs to cover many of the damaged areas until the insurance company settled with me. I had chosen to install the same Brazilian Cherry Wood but now sold directly by Triangulo to stores rather than first sold to BR-111. I just want to change my width to 3.25" from 5". I would prefer a floating floor again as it felt like a solid wood floor but was not so hard on my feet. The store had bought a large lot of 3" Solid Indusparquet Brazilian Cherry Hardwood so can give me a very good price on installing the solid wood by gluing it down using SIKA 2. I did look this product up and they are saying 3/4" solid hardwood can be glued directly to the concrete since it has a moisture barrier and good holding power but flexible. I did call the manufacture of this wood today and Indusparquet will not warranty the solid wood unless it is nailed to plywood floors. I have get to go to the store to discuss the estimate he prepared for me but I am feeling I need to tell him that I really prefer the 3.25" engineered wood downstairs and upstairs. In the summer time, the air conditioner keeps the humidity level down and the house is maintained at 36 - 40% humidity. In the winter time, the dry air is a problem with my forced hot air heat. I used humidifiers downstairs in the day time in my home office and upstairs at night. I have never had a problem with the 5" engineered wood floors until the water damage so I feel I am OK with the engineered wood floors. But when I go upstairs at night, it is very dry and I have to run the humidifiers on a long time to make my bedroom humid enough so I do not get nose bleeds. This is what I am afraid of with the solid wood. I am also afraid of the install failing downstairs where the concrete floor is not flat/level. I filled the large cracks I found when the carpet was removed in 2009 before the installer arrived to install the floor. I will not use him again as he told me to use 2 less boxes so I changed my order and we ran out of wood and he never came back to finish the job when the wood arrived. I want someone to do the full job and charge me extra for moving the heavy cabinets. I have bought so many stackable crates since I will empty them. I have called moving companies to get prices and in case a store does not want to move the cabinets into my garage themselves and to put them back on the floors.

"Does this sound right, or crazy? Crazy, because most guys don't have a clue in how to do it right. I've known enough experimenters. I don't get why when there are other very good options today, particularly 3/4 inch engineered. However, many are either still unfamiliar it actually exists or still feel engineered has that fake stigma. Some markets are also stuck to old habits that die very hard, as solid 3/4 inch hardwoods are king in many areas. In actuality, 3/4 inch engineered offers more benefits opposed to older methods of hardwood on concrete. Unique also has good points. I've handled some 3/4" by gluing but they were herringbone and chevron designs. IE: shorter lengths For others that may be facing the older plywood on concrete application, I put together an analysis compared to 3/4 inch engineered. This is one of the graphics. Naturally costs will vary depending on where you live. More info here Ken Fisher

Subfloor is designed to accept hardwood flooring so you shouldn’t have to install anything on top. Please keep in mind that most builders install OSB and go with hardwood right over. If you are concerned nails holding, just shoot few extra. However, if you are set on lying down plywood, put the paper between OSB and the plywood, and make sure to screw thru OSB into joists. If you screw into OSB, it would be same as nailing into OSB. I am not sure if you are referring to using staples for installing plywood, if that’s what you are asking, use either screws or framing nails. Staples will not reach joists.