Smoking the chain ruin it. IMO Normally no, unless the user coninues to force the chain through the logs dull. Eventually it won't cut just lay their and smoke and even then it can usually be resharpen providing no teeth broke off. This IMO is usually when teeth get broken off or hit metal in the wood. IMO Teeth can be brought back to life usually with elect. chain saw sharpener or dermal with the rotory chain saw files are the quickest way, but if you grind too much you teeth will be gone before you know it. I dress them up with file afterwords fine tuning the angle for maximum sharpness. My woodshark chain are usually ground down so much they will eventually break off. I can tell when I don't do it right the saw wants to cut crooked through the log or bigger limb. Fine sand Or dirt will of course as you said dull the chain quickly and wear the bar grooves where the chain tracks ride if continuelly ran in those conditions. Just be ready to sharpen the chain, clean the bar more often. Probably two or three times during tank full of gas if wood is extremely dirty. For every tank of gas I dress the chain teeth three or four swips and when done I clean the saw up (this includes removing the bar and chain, for thorough clean of all the parts and clutch area. sharpen the chain of course, cleaning the gooves and oil feeder holes on the bar, readjust the chain) now it ready when I need it again and I know I won't be delayed cause I left the saw dirty and dull. Just common sence information that I do that keeps my equipment in top shape and ready for the next job. Cool morning up hear and I am caught up so that's why the Loooong post!!! smile

rman667 - that looks like red oak ricklish- I agree with the other posters that if at all possible you want one continuous level. I am having hardwood installed to extend the flooring into my kitchen it will be one level and it will be featherd in. I have an open floor plan contemporary home so this is definitely the best look for us. My good friend extended the hardwood when she did her kitchen, it had to be down one tiny step. Original floor was wide board oak, new floor is reclaimed barn wood, transition piece is wormy chestnut, because of the color change and the slight level change this worked best in her place. My point is there is no one right answer, find the look that works with your space.

When it comes to hardwood, trends are something to ignore! Why? Because hardwood is pretty much a lifetime purchase, and unless yours is damaged in some way, you're probably not going to replace it. So, light wood vs. dark wood, wide planks vs. narrow planks -- that stuff's all going to come and go. With that in mind -- as well as the very real concerns about cleaning dark wood -- I'll vote for a nice, neutral midtone every time. Not too much contrast, not too red, and (unless it's a beach house) not too pale. I think this is the wood that's most likely to give you good service and stand the test of time.

Sorry to answer a question with a question. Are the partitions between rooms built on top of the floor? In general, having a subfloor under a wood floor makes for a more solid and sturdy end product but judging from the fact that yours has lasted around 80 years, it's not essential. If your partitions are built on top of the floor, you won't be able to remove all of the flooring. You would have to cut the flooring where it meet the first joist out from the wall, install subfloor in the void left from removing most of the old floor, then install a new floor over the top. This would add some thickness.