That's interesting that you don't get them on your iPad sunnibel. If you look at the bottom of this screen you will see 'Learn more about in-text links on this page here'. What you see is certain words within posts in a different colour and if you are unfortunate enough to hover your cursor near them an ad fills the middle of the screen making it impossible to continue reading the post until you click the x to close it. Even then often clicking the x makes it continue and you have to click again elsewhere to really get rid of it. For example a post about garden 'clean' up will cause an ad about a floor polish to fill your screen. They have annoyed plenty of other people. Here is a link that might be useful: In text ads.

Hello fegray, I am new to the forum but have been growing citrus in Connecticut (except for a decade spent in Florida) for about 35 years. My oldest tree is a sour orange I planted about 35 years ago when a young boy of 7 or so, and I have a large 4 by 4 foot Calamondin, a two by two Meyer Lemon (that had 25 lemons on it this fall, and still has 16 to go--2 lemons required per pie!), a two by-two Key lime, a 3 by 3 Buddha's Hand citron, a 2.5 foot tall and rather spindly Ponderosa lemon (on dwarfing rootstock), and a couple other smaller citrus, so I have plenty of experience with pruning, repotting, and dealing with insect infestations. I have had scale before, though not for many years. My citrus trees usually end up with spider mites during the winter: all it takes is a mite or two making it in during the move from outside to inside in October, and by Xmas I often have an infestation. The signs are similar to what you describe (sugary "sap", small spider webs, and sticky leaves). If you have mature scale insects of the kind I've encountered here in the northeast, they would likely be quite obvious and will often be clustered on the newer (say last summer's) shoots and should stand out from the green bark as they are typically brown or yellow or reddish brown. The nymphs or little scale crawlers move about, but the adults stay in one place. I am skeptical that Safer will do the trick for you if you have scale or spider mites, but it won't hurt to try, as long as you don't let them go on too long. In a couple weeks, in zone 7, you may even be able to move the plant outside where the rain and humidity will work against the insects. Note: If you have spider mites and your closeup eyesight is not the best, you may not be able to see the actual insects. The particular mites I get are so small that I can only see them when I have full sunlight falling on the leaves and can spot the mites moving around on them or their webs. They are smaller than periods in newsprint, and light reddish brown to yellow in color. The test is to take a white sheet of paper, hold it under the suspected site of infestation, and gently tap and shake the leaves and smaller branches. If you have mites, you'll have a few specs that slowly move on the paper after this. I have never had luck controlling mites with the friendly sprays many posters advocate, but as long as the infestation is not severe they will fade away in numbers once the afflicted plant goes outside. If the infestation is severe, they can weaken the tree to the point of no return, though with a large tree I think this is somewhat unlikely. There are other possible causes for sudden leaf drop as I'm sure you know: a cold draft, the natural dropping of old leaves, and uneven watering; this last is not necessary obvious. With your large tree, you may not be able to get it enough water if it is rootbound: you can water a citrus two or three times a week and still won't keep it happy if it is growing. Thus, if the tree gets too dry during the winter you can quickly kill it or cause a large section to die back. I make an effort to water my trees thoroughly up to twice a week in the winter if they are growing, flowering, and fruiting (and they often do all of this for months on end). By thorough, I mean until water comes out of the bottom of the drain holes. Having repotted and root trimmed a few times over the years, I can tell you that if a citrus plant is badly potbound and it goes into a growth phase you may need to water it every other day. I had to do this a few years ago. In other words, you may think you are watering enough, and you may even have water coming out the drain holes, but there may be too little soil to hold the water inside the pot long enough for the plant to drink it in. Of course, too much water can also cause leaf drop, so please check to see if your citrus is potbound. The quick test is to try to lift the rootball out of the pot. You may need help to do this! If it comes out and all you can really see is roots . . . well, that is a pretty good sign it needs to be root-trimmed and backfilled with new soil, or repotted, or both. Regarding your long-standing lack of flowers and fruit: I would say that this is odd. My 35 year old sour orange flowers and fruits profusely, and has done so since it was about 15 years old, and before then it did so to a lesser extent. I have kept it in a 22 inch plastic pot for the last 5 or 6 years and take it out and root prune it ever three or four. I think it is due for another pruning this spring. Including the container, it is about 6 1/2 feet tall: I prune it back a foot or two over the course of the summer (if it sends out suckers I tend to cut them before they get too unruly), and then I inevitably end up pruning it once more in October before it comes in. I regularly leave my citrus outside until the night temperatures drop into the low forties or upper thirties (I live in central Connecticut, and last fall I think the last citrus came inside on the 14th of October). In my experience, the only think healthy citrus trees need to induce flowering in the winter is a good sunny window: I've had them flower with west light, south light, and even west light in an attached garage that got down to 50 degrees at night where the light came in through the little garage windows. My advice is that as long as the tree is healthy you should try giving it a good pruning a week or ten days after you move it outside. Say a good 6 inches to a foot all the way around. Good luck! Don

hey...what a coincidence..i came to this forum tonight looking for an answer for the same problem but with a magnavox 51" hdtv projection television. my television was purchased SATURDAY...yes, you read that right..SATURDAY NOVEMBER 5TH from circuit city. Upon contacting circuit city, they told me to call Magnavox. When i told Magnavox what was happening they told me that they needed to send a technician out. I am hoping that within the next couple of days the repairman will come. I will be sure to find out what the exact problem is, and then I will update you as to what he (hopefully) does to fix it. Thank goodness this happened well within the warranty period!

Well, I seem to have the same problem. My refrigerator is a GE and I found this goo on my top shelf, then at the bottom behind the crisper drawers, then last week on the 2nd shelf. So I started my Sherlock Holmes work. No, I have not spilled anything, no food has leaked out of any containers either. What I did first was to tape paper towel to the back of the refrigerator wall. Then a place one on the 1st and 2nd shelves at the back. Then something told me to look up, and that is when I notice the compartment at the top of the refrigerator. I went and got my camera and started taking pictures. There I saw a Styrofoam piece that had the same brown stain on it. Then I went to the Internet for some researching. Here is an article I found that was very interesting. https://applianceparts.wordpress.com/2008/12/24/refrigerator-leaking-oil-colored-liquid/ Excert: "If your refrigerator is leaking an oily or oil-colored liquid and is not freezing or cooling properly, it’s a good chance that the substance is refrigerator oil. The oil is normally clear and odorless, but when the seal to the system is broken, oxygen can dirty the oil during the compressor burn. The dirty oil is also an indication of a damaged compressor as well. Since oxygen has somehow entered what should be a sealed system, and the compressor is shot, your best bet is to get a new refrigerator as the cost of repair might be equal to the cost of a new fridge." I have several videos on Youtube regarding my GE Refrigerator. I hope this one shows the inside of the refrigerator with all of the goo. This refrigerator also has problems with mold, condensation, keeping food cold, defrosting automatically, and it also have some white goo / putty or foam coming from the bottom. It could be melted insulation now that I think of it. Feel free to take a look. I hope this helps someone!