Thanks marcolo. I think I'll go over there w/ a big mirror and make DF stand where the appliance cabinet will go and I'll stand in the breakfast nook and see what is reflected because that is where most time will be spent, I think. mtnrdredux- I originally wanted a range and I agree with you completely that it would look much better! I looked at the fratelli onofri in blue and was very, very close to buying it, but I didn't like the brass. And I think a lacanche (or even its cheaper friends) might be a bit of a waste in a kitchen where no one cooks. In general, though, I didn't love the whole idea of the range w/ the low ovens either. Like I said, we do use the ovens to reheat b/c DF won't use the microwave or eat microwaved food. I don't want to bend down to get stuff in and out, and I really do not like the idea of a low-to-the-ground range with a really sniffy little doggy who sticks his snout everywhere. I'm afraid he'd get hurt when the range opened and I won't take any chances on that. And I know I'd have snouts pressed against oven glass and possibly paws scratching the door if he smelled something cooking (and being a beagle, of course, he'd always smell anything cooking!) So, it is ovens for me. Plus, we already bought 'em (a 42 inch miele cooktop only b/c it was a floor model and we got it cheaper than most of the "low end" cooktops) and the floor model jenn-air ovens.

I imagine you are paying for the cabinets yes? If so then you have every right to a an explnation that you can understand and makes sense to you regardless of your level of expertise. Based on what I have seen a huge % of problems experienced in relation to renos are the result of inadequate communication between the homeowner and the contractor (communication: that's receiving and sending). Your guy sounds good, he is taking you to see his work and showing you whay he means. Don't back off because if you don't understand what you are getting and don't like it you will be unhappy and that isn't good for him. Most of the major hardware lines make side mount drawer hardware - it isn't as pretty but who really cares? My guess is that id does require that the drawer boxes be narrower so you are losing some space - probably not enough to worry about. Description of joints: Mitered Joint Mitred doors and drawers have a frame that is joined by a mitre joint at the corners. A mitre joint is a 45° cut on both the stile and the rail. This joint runs diagonally from the inside corner of the frame to the outside corner. Mitre cut doors are used on doors that have a fancy detail on the stile and rail that would be difficult to form with a Cope & Pattern joint (see below). Miter joints are also used on inexpensive doors because this type of joint is easy to make. Tenon & Mortise Joint A traditional tenon and mortise joint (similar to tongue and groove) is the most common, and provides strength to the joint. Each end of the rail has a tenon (extension), which fits into a pocket (mortise) cut into the side of the stile. Cope & Pattern Joint This type of joint is often seen on furniture grade cabinetry. Cutting tools are used to cut the rails (horizontal) and stiles (vertical) which result in two pieces, each a mirror image of the other. In addition, a slot is cut into the rail and stile for the center door panel. The shape of the cut allows for a greater glue area, resulting in a stronger joint. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is a link that might be useful: good cabinetry overview

How much space do you have between the cabinet and the wall? Did you look at Mirror Mates? I don't know how it works with multiple doors but you could take a look at this. I googled like crazy and didn't find much. I like the frame that Kohler has for the Verdera cabinet - nice simple lines. I was thinking of going that way but this only works with recessed mounted ones and ours will be surface mounted and none of the stains worked. I have been on the hunt for a framed med cabinet and it hasn't been easy finding one that meets my requirements. The back up plan is the tri-view verdera and the contractor making a frame like they have. I am looking at some cabinets this weekend and am hopeful that I will find one that works without having to go with the back up plan. I would just rather see the finished look and save that added time. What brand do you have? That compnay might have something.

Honestly, I look at the layout I drew yesterday. The cabinet is nice for extra storage but I should have kept some of that space for more counter. With a 24" vanity, guests can pretty much just put a tooth brush and toothpaste. Where at the other stuff go: On the toilet seat? On the floor? some little shelves above the toilet would help (but personally I don't like that (I am always afraid that will drop (either in the toilet or on the floor very close to the toilet). Again this is your MIL house, she certainly can have any size of the bathroom she wants but 7'0" is the minimum required to be to code. She could check with her contractor.