Thanks for all the suggestions. I feel better knowing it's possible. And now I have a lot of new ideas to research, and incorporate into my tomato system. This is what I'm thinking so far... 1) Avoid monocropping. I'm thinking about adding 10-20% more garden space, to allow for interplanting, and maybe some empty space between blocks of plants. I hope that's enough. 2) Consider a cover crop in the fall. I'm already researching this for weed suppression, and adding nutrients back into the soil. Maybe a particular crop will help with specific diseases? I need to research this more, later in the season. 3) Research the particulars for the diseases I'm likely to see here. I had blight towards the end of last year. But according to the MSU extension, it's not supposed to overwinter here. So I may be in luck with that one. Slugs got everything before that, so they're high on my list of things to deal with this year. 4) Research beneficial stuff like marigolds. I already have some queen anne's lace that's growing in my new spot. I originally thought of it as a weed that I'd have to remove. But it's a wild carrot, and it's supposed to be good for tomatoes for some reason. 5) I ran across a site yesterday that talked about grafting tomato plants. Something about cherry tomatoes will grow anywhere, so they make good root stock. I wonder how well a cherokee purple would work with something like Matt's wild cherry? And I wonder if there are any possible root stocks that are resistant to root knot nemotodes? I don't know what rkn's are, but they don't sound good. 6) Scout regularly, and remove diseased plants quickly. Get on the extension's list for forecasted diseases. 7) Start all of my own seeds. Unless I end up killing most of 'em, like I did last year. Be careful with anything I import into the garden, since who knows what might be in it. 8) Research hydrogen peroxide. I could see myself using that on a spot that's had disease issues, since it's one of the few chemicals that don't really scare me. It worked great on my dog, when he got zapped by a skunk:) Although his fur got a little lighter. 9) Expose stuff to the sun when it's possible. I had a lot of deer pass through my new spot over the winter. So I'm going to let the sun work on all the droppings for a while, before I incorporate them into the soil. 10) Be careful not to splash when watering. And try to water at times when the leaves won't stay wet for long. 11) I tried aerated compost tea last year, and I think it did some good. Although I wasn't using it to suppress any diseases. But I read some things on Linda Chalker-Scott's site that have me wondering if it's really worth taking the time to do. I'm sure it's a debate that'll go on for a long time, and both sides probably have some valid points. I'm planning a no till system, so my soil may be healthy enough without it anyway. I attached a link to her site, if anyone's interested. Here is a link that might be useful: site with stuff about compost tea

Hmmm....Just a few wants so far. poisondart-dianthus zing rose imabirdnut-dianthus-red red rose " " -orange ripple gr8heather-orange bell pepper I will have my full list up in the next day or so...is that okay Michelle. ageratum-patina purple agastache-apricot sprite astilboides tabularis aster- mary gregory armeria-ballerina red amaranthus-copperhead amaranthus-hot bisquits amaranthus-intense purple bachelors buttons-blackball basil-spicy balsam mix bluebells blackberry lily balloon flowers: astra double white double blue hakone white sentimental blue campanula-white clips campanula-americanum campanula-tokian blue camapnula persi-alba celosia-new look red celosia argentia-orange *small amount " "- bright pink " "-yellow celosia-dark pink candles-white candles-light pink candles columbine- winky blue-winky red-white angel-spring magic yellow coreopsis- autumn blush-route 66- codonopsis lancelota cosmos-ladybird dwarf yellow Daisy-snow lady-gold rush Dianthus-firewitch -poem -dbl. gaiety -gaiety raspberry parfait telstar carmine-small amount black magic neon stars sooty ideal violet picotee-small amount yellow knappi Dicentra-white knight daylily-magic carpet ride daylily-variegated charm delphinium-lavender gaurdian datura-double yellow-stramonium-giant tutula-black metal swirl eryngium-jade frost-silver ghost-blue hobbit echever echinops geum -cooky-rivale-blazing sunset-mrs bradshaw geranium-confetti-jesters jacket-splish splash-espresso*-red robin*- dark reiter*>>>>>>>>> *= small amount gaillardia- yellow queen hibiscus- lemon slice-luna pink swirl-luna red-hardy pink heliopsis- summer sun-ballerina*-praire sunset* hollyhock-double red heuchera-mocha-blackout*-frosted violet-pistache- tellima grandiflora heuchera family jasione-blue light jacobs ladder kiss me over the garden gate lupine-tutti fruitti-morello cherry-chandelier( 10 seeds creamy yellow) lobelia-great blue-siphilica white lychnis-angela blush-vesuvius-flo-jovis peggy-salmon marigold-disco flame malva fastigata-marienetta-alba money plant-white monarda punctata, dotted horsemint pumpkin tree pepper-fish penstemon-cobaea prunella-freelander blue poppy- prince of orange potentilla-monarchs velvet-molten fire petunia-laura bush-tidal wave purple*-pink wave scrophularia-red birds in a tree** rheum-edmondi rudbeckia-sputnik-Denver daisy-dbl.gold-green wizard scabiosa-red, this one was sold years ago by T&M, it is red! sidalcea-party girl stoksia-honey song blue-peachies pickklaus jelitto spilanthes sunflower, perennial lemon queen spergularia salvia-artemis-purple volcano-framboise-forest fire-salsa purple-vista red toad lily-white, pure white snapdragon-tall pink verbena-trailing pink and purple mix-white- vine-pink coral verbascum-alba-pink and blue pixie mix xeranthemum yarrow-apple blossom-salmon beauty,2010-summer wine-sunny seduction,2010 This post was edited by ishareflowers on Sun, Feb 3, 13 at 21:39

I want a FAST computer. I'm not into games, music, or videos. Although watching TV, or a DVD would be nice. #1 NEED is to wisk around the web quickly (have NO patience!).- I may be running a website/business. That is not controlled by the computer, it's controlled by the connection you have. You need DSL or "business quality" cable connections. Normal household cable is shared with everyone on the block and it can be very slow. If you plan to run a website/business, I strongly recommend you just pay a few $$ a month for website hosting - siteground.com is a good one with lots of free tools and templates - because setting one up from scratch is a technical nightmare and your thinking a fast CPU = fast internet indicates that you aren't geekish enough to do it. *********** Any computer currently on the market is enough for web, office stuff and viewing DVDs. Buy the cheapest one you can find and pay extra for more RAM (lots more RAM) and a good graphics card.

I was able to flush the dns on both the xp and vista laptops. But I still can't connect either laptop wirelessly to the "fmaily room" network (which is still unsecured). I cannot access the Nat,spi or firewall soI don't know if that's the problem. Both laptops show a strong signal (full bars) to the family room network - but don't connect. They do connect via wired connection (does this mean I have so far created a network switch). On both laptops I selected "family room" as the preferred network to connect to. But both connected to my Lynn network (from the opposite corner of the house - with only a weak signal). On the Vista laptop it says Windows cannot connect to "family room" - and when asked to connect to family room, it said "Windows association failed due to an unknown reason." When I selected "diagnose and repair, it said Windows did not find any problems with your Internet connection." Then I tried one further thing. I saw on the Vista laptop that it still listed the family room network as having WPA2 security - so i changed what the laptop had for listed for family room network to reflect no current security settings. Then I tried to connect again. It wouldn't connect. Then I clicked repair/diagnose - and it said "this network is marked as a "hidden" network and is either not in the range of this computer or the wireless settings saved on this computer do not match the settings of the network." It is in range of the network - 3 feet away and receiving a full strong signal. So perhaps the network settings do not match the router or access point (although I'm not sure where to look to check this since I think I set it all up to match). The other thing is says is "if you own or set up this network, reset your wireless router or access point and try connecting again." Should I try this? Does it mean unplugging SMC access point, linksys router and modem - waiting and replugging them in? If so, in what order? Or does this mean resetting the SMC completely and starting from scratch? So now what? Jane - I realize that Mikie's the guy - and I very much appreciate his help. Those links helped me get clearer on definitions, but don't really get specific enough to address these set up complications. Thank you. Lynn.