I don't see anything in either code that prohibits it. P2705.1 of the IECC Residential code (2015) doesn't appear to mention it at all, and the UPC 412 (from 2018 at least) is about Urinals (whether or not a shower constitutes a urinal if you pee in the shower is out of scope of the UPC). :) UPC 408.9 mentions it this way: "Control valves and shower heads should be mounted on the sidewall of shower compartments or otherwise arranged so that the water does not discharge at the entrance of the compartment so that so that the bather can adjust the valves before stepping into the shower spray" So nothing to do specifically with the thing pointed at the door, moreso can you turn on the water without being sprayed by it, which is a good idea anyway since that first blast is likely to be quite cold.

We did something similar a couple of years ago because we didn't want an acrylic base. Our curved glass sliding doors run in a track, though. Here's what we did. (Disclaimer: the terminology may not be exactly right; the sequence of steps might be a bit out of whack, but the process is all there.) We built (of wood) a curved curb that was covered with cement board. A metal worker came in and fabricated a copper pan on site (copper pans required by code in RI). That cost $600! Then the tile guy poured a concrete base and then tiled the floor and the inside and outside of the curb. For the top we found some rectanglar tiles just the right length. The tile guy laid them side to side (not end-to-end), like you might see around the top of a well. To get the right curve, he had to cut some so the edges "sloped" so that instead of being squared rectangles, they were more triangular. They hang over the curb just a bit both inside and outside of the shower, but not so much that there is any danger of breaking one when stepping in or out of the shower. Then we installed and cauked the track for the doors and then the doors. It's worked very well since.

Hi there, This is my first time posting in the bathroom forum (been hanging out in the appliance section), so I'm glad people have the same concerns I do about cleaning the shower! Apologies in advance if this is a bit tangental, but I've been looking at various shower surfaces for our new bathroom remodels. I like the look of tile/stone but absolutely abhor the idea of dealing with the grout and caulking -- it just seems like an inevitable problem. Those acrylic inserts appear to resolve this issue, but they're just so cheap feeling I don't think I can buy into it. Having recently visited a home show, I think I found a really interesting compromise called stonecraft (not sure if that's just the company brand name or the actual product name -- linked below). It's a plastic/cement mixture that they paint in two layers. The first layer goes on solid. Then they 'tape' the tile pattern you want, then apply the second coat (different colour). When the tape's removed, the first layer appears as the grout lines. I first looked at this for my patio deck, but the more I read into it, the more I liked it for other parts of the house -- including the shower (they even suggest it). My contractor worked on another house that used this outside and it really feels like a stone material. As it's painted on, it should be seamless (walls, floor, ceiling)and, therefore, a breeze to clean! Kind of hoping someone's used this and can share their experience, because it seems like a silver bullet. As for the doors itself, I'm wondering if anyone knows how long a shower stall would need to be to go 'doorless' without getting significant splashing out of water. TIA Here is a link that might be useful: Stonecraft

Lol (I'm reading the comments thus far).. I did learn I have the u channel set up. Thanks John. Back to the org post, I'm no pro but my shower is about 46 inches wide. If you have a 42" opening then can't the installer do a set up similar to mine, but with a door that is a couple inches less in width? The door I have is the widest I could go, per the installer, so I don't see why you couldn't just do a door a couple inches less in width with the same fixed side??? By the way, my installer let me scroll thru pics on his phone of his past work. I saw all sizes with both u channels (aka the strip lol) and clamps.. My glass is 3/8" thick... Half inch cost more of course. I didn't even have him quote me half inch... Let us know what you find out