What is better? pre-finished or stained on site hardwood?
charliedawg
16 years ago
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allison0704
16 years agoamyks
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Hardwood - Finished on site vs pre-finished?
Comments (15)floorguy and glennsfc what would you use. We need l000 square feet of hardwood. Our island will be in a dark stained rift quarter sawn oak. The hardwood will go in the kitchen, eating area, living room (great room for those three rooms), den and one bedroom. We would like to use oak on the floor to match the island, but have it stained in a medium brown color. In the past two hardwood finished on site floors we used glitza water based finish. I don't know if glitza is still allowed because of the ureaformaldyhydes (sp??) but would like a satin finish. Maybe we shouldn't be so close minded about unfinished. Maybe we should buy finished but we have to get longer lengths then are usually offered. In VAncouver, B.C. all we see is 4 to 5' at the longest. Just looks like a quilt. And for a l000 square feet of mostly open area that could be deadly. My mind is open and I look forward to your opinions. I know you know a lot more then I do. Can hardly wait to hear your opinions....See MoreHardwood floors - site-finished and pre-finished in adjoining rooms?
Comments (34)As JLC said, you have nicely finished doorways ... the only time you will see both floors is when you have a door open. And with the difference in lighting, you won't notice slight differences. Here's how I match or blend finishes: Bring home some samples of the prefinished you are thinking about and lay them in the hallway, parallel to the existing floors. Stand back 10 or so feet and pick the board or boards that you have the hardest time spotting. That's your match. Or, remove the boards that stand out ... what's left is the matching color. If you carefully pick the ONE board that is just inside the doorway to be as close a match to the older one in the hall it will make the blend almost invisible. Here, in an 1880s adobe ... the door stops where the pale wood is, and I picked new boards with the brownish tones of the old floor (upper part) to make the new flooring (running side to side) less conspicuous. (there was craptastical 1990s carpet and some wierd sill arrangement to deal with ... nothing in the house is square, plumb, or level). By matching size and rustic-ness in the new flooring we got a floor that blends with the old. Cleaning and refinishing the old floor (eventually) will make oit blend better....See Moreupdate on site finished hardwoods-Rubio Monocoat
Comments (7)I've just been on the monocoat.us site and did some more detailed reading of it. That' what I'm going with! I was impressed by the technology of it, that it causes the wood fibers to compress and bond, so it's not even that it "needs" only one coat but rather it will only take one coat because once the reaction occurs, the wood fibers can't take another coat. Impressive. It's also safer, i.e.: food/health. It's also a lot easier to repair if needed, and really impressive is that, if you do need to do a repair, because of the bonding technology, any bonded fibers around the area being repaired will not take the new Monocoat being applied! I think that's amazing. Their site does have a gallery with pic of kitchen counters, including one around a kitchen sink with a big ol' puddle of water on it. As well, kitchen counters are certainly a heck of a lot easier to re-coat every 3- 6 years, as recommended, than floors. So, Monocoat it will be for my kitchen counters. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on an island counter (is there a sink in the island?). My only concern with the Monocoat, aside from the color, was the water around the sink, thing. But that seems to be resolved for me. I'm going to order three samples: Antique Bronze, Castle Brown, and Walnut. I want a rich somewhat deep but not dark brown with gold highlights but with NO red or orange....See MorePre-finished Hardwood/Eng Hardwood recommendation
Comments (8)Ok...first things first. Janka hardness ratings only apply to solid hardwood. Engineered planks do not work with Janka because the plied layers underneath are often 'soft woods'. Considering Janka measures how much force it takes to imbed a metal ball into the wood, it isn't possible to offer Janka scores for engineered. They just don't compute. The next thing I'm going to point out is the oddity of trying to match the ENTIRE HOUSE to a single room of existing hardwood. You have a small amount of hardwood that is dictating the rest of the house. It's not impossible but it is HIGHLY unusual. In other words, you are trying to put down more than a thousand square feet of flooring by trying to match 150 - 250sf of dining room (I don't know the size of your dining room so I'm only guessing here). That's a little like putting the cart before the horse. Usually we see this the other way around. Usually we have a house full of hardwood (big amount) but the bedrooms have carpet (small amount). The homeowners then agonize over getting a match for the smaller area. That is normal. As for your price range that you are looking at, they are too low and a little thin. The gold standard is 3/4" thickness (solid or engineered). An engineered product with 3mm or more of wear layer is the base level. The thicker the wear layer the more times a floor can be refinished. The Gold standard is 6mm wear layer (usually in the $10/sf range). If you are having a hard time finding floors that you like, you might want to think about replacing the dining room at the same time. This takes away all the pressure to work with low-grade hardwoods just to get a match to a small amount of hardwood. Solid or engineered should be more than what you are looking at for price. Prefinished wood flooring should be in the $7/sf just to start and they go up from there....See Moreworthy
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