I like it, but it looks like the multi-gray only comes in shiny - and isn't shiny ceramic tile on the floor too slippery to be safe? I agree with you that gray is much easier to keep looking good than either black or white. But I see your point about the random gray looking modern in a '20s bath. All the baths from that era that I've seen involved either solid field tiles with another color as an accent, or an even (not random) pattern. On the other hand, many of those period color combinations look truly hideous today.

Bill V. Thanks so much for responding! I have been planning my purchases for this phase and waiting anxiously for a response to my floor questions :) So Bill V., regarding #5 question - I'm asking just about the plumbing rough-ins, like the hole for the toilet, and the "through the floor" tub plumbing pipes. I would think that the plumber would want to cut through the plywood and subfloor before the SLC is in. I haven't asked my plumber Kevin yet what he wants, and he is ultimately who will make the call. But if I could pour before he made his rough-ins it would be easier for me to not have to work around the extra plumbing and openings. Another question about the SLC - is the SLC not strong enough for the weight of the tub? I was going to install the tub after the SLC, I didn't even question this one. I have a standard tub, alcove type. So, I would think that when installing the tub, before SLC, I would want to caulk the tub at the floor to prevent the SLC from seeping in under the tub. I will have one end of the tub open, for a built in cabinet that will come after I tile the floor including this area. This cabinet will house the plumbing. I will need to create some sort of dam at this end. Staceyneil posted some time ago about how she made a successful SLC pour and described how she made a dam out of 2x's. Again thanks so much for your input.

Thanks for your quick response Bill. Here is a picture of the tub before tiling. It doesn't look like there's a lip that goes up behind the cement board. And another one of the tub with some of the cement board in place. Shouldn't he have used caulk between the tile and the tub? Can he just run a line of caulk on top of the grout? I don't think that's the right thing to do but I know that's what he'll say. Here also is a closeup pic of the red clay that shows. If it was just a couple of places I could understand but it's visible in many places. Along the top of the window it is especially evident. This pic shows one small part of the window, but the red clay shows around many parts of the window. The top just looks dirty until you get up close, which no one is going to do so they'll just wonder what the dirt is up there. I'm concerned about the field tile that has the red clay showing at the edges. Since the nonglazed part of the tile is exposed, will water work it's way in there? Will proper grouting hide the red clay? Again, here's a pic of one spot but the picture doesn't really show how much the red clay is showing. I tried to get a better pic but a photographer I'm not. Oh, and there are about 6 small black marks towards the top of the tub that weren't there when I bought it. It's a vinyl tub. I tried to wash them off but they didn't budge. He did the same thing to my vanity. All of a sudden there are marks on the front where something has hit it and left a series of small dark nicks. I made it clear in the nicest way I could that I wanted the vanity fixed. Now I'll have to do it again with the marks on the tub. Though I'm not sure they can be fixed. Thanks again for your help. Mary

I don't think Laticrete loves Kerdi Fix. I don't like much of the Schluter Kerdi Line up but I do love Kerdi Fix, and use it on my jobs. I used some myself to seal Laticrete's Hydro Ban Sheet Membrane to my last Kohler Under mount tub and to the window in the last steam shower I built. It's slow to cure. About an 1/16"-1/8" a day when roughly 1/32" thick. I have tested it and found it sets up under water but never rushed a flood test sooner than 18 hours if memory serves me right. I'm waiting for Laticrete to come out with their own. I would like to know who makes Kerdi Fix for Schluter. Many people swear by Sika Flex or something like that - I have never tested it. Remember that Laticrete's membrane is thicker than Kerdi so it the membrane might want to fight back or realease a little. The fleece if different too. More furry. I would be bracing the connection with a small amount of weight and the brace I would be using a bond breaker tape on it.